SPITSBERGEN: 28th JUNE-6th JULY 2007

SPITSBERGEN: 28th JUNE-6th JULY 2007

Trip Report by Tony Marr (Tour Leader)

Summary

This ninth WildWings tour to Spitsbergen, and our Tour Leader’s tenth, proved to be one of the most successful yet. A happy combination of a very compatible group, trouble-free travelling, an excellent ship’s Expedition Team and exciting wildlife sightings all contributed to a truly enjoyable expedition cruise to this remote Arctic wilderness. Spitsbergen is the largest island in the Svalbard Archipelago, lying only 600 miles from the North Pole, and is readily accessible by air from Norway, which owns and administers the islands. With no indigenous people, there is no hunting, so the wildlife is both prolific and confiding, a welcome contrast with other parts of the Arctic.

The pack ice this June was to the north-east of Spitsbergen, so we were able to easily access most of the north-west coast. However Hinlopen Strait which separates Spitsbergen from Nordaustlandet (North East Land) was blocked by ice, which prevented us from reaching the usually inaccessible areas we had been lucky enough to visit in 2006. We ventured into the pack ice as far north as almost 81 degrees, an unforgettable experience, in our ice-strengthened ship, the Professor Multanovskiy. Our Expedition Leader, Rolf Stange, knows Svalbard very well, and was able to take us to several locations which WildWings had not visited before and where there was very interesting wildlife to be found. The Arctic flowers were particularly good this year, and gave those with a botanical interest some challenging identification tests.

Top of everyone’s wish list was probably Polar Bear. Since it was declared a threatened species last year, more and more people are realising that if they want to see one before it’s too late, it probably has to be  now or never. Maybe that is why our group this year was the largest we have had, with our 25 people occupying half the ship. We were not disappointed. The first one was distant, asleep and very hard to identify, let alone appreciate; the second much closer and on the move, but seen only from the ship; but the third was perfect, a well-fed adult hunting for birds nests and eggs along the shore of a small bay, and giving us wonderful views and photographic opportunities for well over an hour.

We saw over 100 Walruses hauled out at two localities, and several Arctic Foxes including a family together and two separate, unusually dark, nearly black, individuals. Reindeer were in evidence on the tundra throughout the expedition, with a total of nearly 90. Seals were present in some of the fjords, or at the edge of the pack ice, in small numbers – our totals were some 35+ Harp Seals (30+ in one group), 7 Bearded and 4 Ringed. We had the usual small number of Minke Whales, three this year, but a nice surprise was a Humpback Whale which showed well one afternoon and was a ‘first‘ here for WildWings.

The birds were well up to our usual high standard, and with some vagrants this year. Among the special ones we were seeking, King Eider were elusive, with just seven scattered birds until our last day, when 13 were seen at Longyearbyen, ten of these being adult drakes. More Ptarmigan were seen than usual, with ten in all. Ivory Gulls did not disappoint, with seven adults; but no Sabine’s this year, and once again, no Ross’s Gulls – they really are rare here. Among the many wader species, we did very well for Grey Phalaropes (more appropriately called Red Phalaropes by the Americans who also see them in breeding plumage) with a respectable total of 18 and some marvellous photo opportunities; a pair of European Golden Plovers was unusual and another first for us. The four northern skuas were all seen, Long-tailed in particular being very special with a tame breeding pair at one of our landing sites. We visited cliff colonies of Brunnich’s Guillemots and Atlantic Puffins, and spent two hours on a scree slope surrounded by thousands of Little Auks with a beautiful glacier in the background. Snow Buntings were everywhere, in the last few days feeding young which had obviously just left the nest. Finally, the vagrants. One was a drake Steller’s Eider, among some Commons, and the other was a summer-plumage Red-throated Pipit. Both occur in northern Norway but rarely in Svalbard, where the pipit has been seen fewer than five times.

Daily diary

Thursday 28 June

The group assembled at London’s Heathrow Airport in good time for our mid-morning flight to Oslo, apart from one member who flew direct from Edinburgh and met us at our airport hotel in the evening. On a warm afternoon we enjoyed a two-hour walk in the wooded countryside near Oslo airport, where we found a nice  selection of birds including Wrynecks, Whinchats, Tree Pipit, Short-toed Treecreeper, Fieldfares, Siskins and Crossbills.

Friday 29 June

A lavish early breakfast was followed by a surprisingly congested airport, but despite this check-in was quickly completed and soon we were on the aircraft and taking off for Tromso and Longyearbyen, capital of Svalbard. We landed on time just before 2.00 pm, coming in to the small airport over spectacular glaciers, fjords and pointed mountains – the literal translation of the word Spitsbergen. Our Expedition Leader met us, our luggage was taken directly to the ship, and we were driven into town. We had opportunities to shop, have a late lunch and do some birding.

As well as seeing Snow Buntings in the main  shopping centre, some of us were treated to a flyover by two Ptarmigan as we started a walk down to the shore. There we found Common Eiders (but no Kings, which are sometimes seen here), Long-tailed Ducks, Glaucous Gulls, and our first Brunnich’s Guillemots. Nesting Arctic Terns divebombed us as we made our way along the shore road to the harbour, where we boarded Professor Multanovskiy. An Ivory Gull flew past the ship while we were settling in.

We were introduced to our Expedition Team and Hotel Manager; learned about the ship and the expedition which lay ahead of us; survived a lifeboat and safety drill; and finally enjoyed the first of many excellent meals aboard. We sailed at 6.00 pm out of narrow Adventfjord and into mighty Isfjord to commence the first leg of the trip, sailing up the west coast overnight to reach our first landing place early in the morning. ‘Overnight’ takes on a different meaning when there is no darkness, and a number of people found it difficult to get to sleep, despite being tired after their long journey north. This is not unusual on this trip, where a combination of permanent daylight and adrenalin-pumping wildlife encounters make sleep sometimes quite resistible.

Saturday 30 June

On a cold, clear and breezy morning we anchored in Kongsfjord, with the legendary settlement of Ny Alesund off our starboard bow and the abandoned mining venture of Camp Mansfield on our port side. Some early risers had seen two Minke Whales as we approached our anchorage before breakfast. After a briefing on procedures for using Zodiacs (the dependable inflatable craft used for shore landings) and another on the dangers of Polar Bears (our three guides all carried rifles on each outing from the ship), we were shuttled ashore to the Blomstrand Peninsula.

Within minutes we were watching a Ptarmigan and a pair of Pinkfooted Geese, one of which was obviously on a nest. A very handsome Long-tailed Skua was on guard for its mate, which was sitting, presumably on its nest, near the deserted wooden buildings. The skuas were both very confiding and we had marvellous views and took many close photographs, particularly when a third adult appeared and caused some domestic disorder. Around us were Arctic Terns, Arctic Skuas and Snow Buntings, while a pair of Long-tailed Ducks swam in the bay.

Rolph had offered some walks of different lengths and speeds, and most of the birders chose one which took us on to a nearby ridge with views over some small lakes. Here were three Red-throated Divers, one later seen to be sitting on a nest; a Purple Sandpiper flew past; and on a distant rock stack by the shore we ‘scoped three adult Barnacle Geese, one on a nest with a Glaucous Gull also on a nest dangerously close by. Other walkers watched two very close Ptarmigan, with other sightings bringing the total to an unusual six. A pair of Barnacle Geese were spotted with three small goslings, and at least 20 Reindeer were on the slopes above us.  It had been an outstanding landing, on a dry, still morning, and not too cold. All this was about to change.

During lunch the ship repositioned over to Ny Alesund, and a large cruise ship which had been there in the morning had gone by the time we were taken ashore. The dry weather had turned to steady drizzle, which was to intensify into sleet, and cause problems for photographing the many birds which were present. Some people began their visit with some retail therapy in the shop and post office, while others watched birds from a covered balcony over a large lagoon. Here could be seen up to three Red-throated Divers, Common Eider, Barnacle Geese, Purple Sandpipers, a drake Common Teal, and a Ringed Plover. Two adult Ivory Gulls, gleaming white in the dull conditions, frequented their regular site at the dog compound on the edge of town, feeding on seals skins put out for the dogs. Everywhere were nesting Arctic Terns, fearless in protecting their nests and eggs against human or avian intruders, and Snow Buntings, with nests in some of the buildings. Overhead Glaucous Gulls and Arctic Skuas harried the terns, sometimes getting more than they bargained for. A family of Arctic Foxes under one of the buildings occasionally ventured out into the   cold and wet, but it was a matter of luck to be passing at the right moment to see them.

Towards the end of the afternoon, with the incessant sleet dampening spirits inside as well as coats outside, most people had returned to the ship. A few struggled along to see the famous iron mast from which Amundsen and Nobile had launched their airship on their successful expedition to the North Pole in 1926, and a handful continued to watch the main lagoon. Here a real surprise was the finding of a very wet but colourful Red-throated Pipit, in summer plumage and probably a male, feeding along the edge of the water. Later checking of the literature suggests that there have probably been fewer than five records of this species in Svalbard. It was a good ending to a rewarding visit, and repaid some for their patience and endurance in such trying conditions. Once we were back on board, the anchor was raised and we headed off out of Kongsfjord, en route northwards to our next destination, as we enjoyed another delicious dinner.

Sunday 1 July

It had been a little rough at times during the night, and the wind was still fresh when we arrived early in the morning off the north coast of Spitsbergen at the small, flat island of Moffen. This is a nature reserve, so ships are not allowed too close. It is well-known as a hauling-out place for Walrus, and approaching we could see two or three large reddish lumps on top of the beach. As we came closer, through binoculars we could make out white tusks poking up into the air – they were indeed Walrus, about 50 huddled together to keep warm. Further along the beach was a yellowish-white object lying motionless which raised some suspicions – was it a Polar Bear? With telescopes, very difficult to use with the ship pitching and rolling in the swell as we made our way past the island, several people saw it well enough to make out the black nose and its front paws as it lay facing down the shore towards the water. Our first bear was not at all co-operative, and we really wanted it to stand up and walk about to convince us all as to its identity.

The windy conditions and the swell made it hard to see birdlife, too, and the best we could manage was a few Eiders and Arctic Skuas.  A party of three King Eider (two drakes and a duck) had been seen passing the ship earlier. So we turned southwards, and made our way into the scenic Woodfjord. Here we were slowed down by strong headwinds, and it was late in the morning before we reached our first landing at Bockfjord, about half way down Woodfjord. We had just an hour ashore before lunch, which gave us time for a short walk across the tundra. About 15 Reindeer were grazing, and birds seen included two Pinkfooted Geese, two Ptarmigan, three Purple Sandpipers and a couple of Snow Buntings. It had been nice to get off the ship after such a long morning on board, and helped to give us an appetite for lunch.

As we lunched, the Professor Multanovskiy headed westwards into the beautiful Liefdefjorden, where we planned a landing on Andoyane, also known as the Duck Islands, recognised as one of the best wildlife areas in Spitsbergen. Polar Bears are often to be seen here, stranded when the pack ice moves off northwards in the early summer, and they try to scratch a living from feeding on the ducks’ eggs, mostly Common Eider. We therefore had to be especially careful in our choice of landing place, and Rolfe insisted on Zodiacing around the islands before we went ashore. Just before we did so, we came upon several beautiful Grey Phalaropes, males and females in their full red summer plumage, bobbing about like corks on the water. Behind the chosen landing beach was a shallow lagoon, where there were several more, and one male dazzled us with his spinning feeding action. Like a minute ballet dancer, he went round and round until it looked as though he would be overcome with dizziness. For our photographers this was a dream opportunity.

We very carefully scanned the islands for our large white friends as we climbed up a slope towards the top, from where we had a magnificent view for miles in every direction. It was a fine afternoon, birds were all round us, and the backdrop was mile after mile of snow-capped mountains and glaciers. Our walk over the rocks and tundra gave us views of distant Red-throated Divers and Great Skuas, and closer ones of a pair of Arctic Skuas and many pairs of aggressive Arctic Terns, the terns vigorously defending their nests. Among 70 or so Common Eider we found one drake King, which led us a merry dance before some of us had a reasonable view from a Zodiac on our return journey. A dozen or so Long-tailed Ducks, five Purple Sandpipers (some were singing and probably breeding) and three Ruddy Turnstones (perhaps breeding) completed the tally. We didn’t see any bears, but we found some obvious droppings, which contained a large amount of eggshell as proof of their diet here – a far cry from the seal meat which is their preferred choice.

One never gives up in the search for bears, and so it was just as we were finishing dinner that the announcement caught all our attention: ‘There is a Polar Bear on a small island on the port side of the ship’. Passengers appeared on the bridge and the outer decks with surprising speed, and were able quickly to pick out the yellowish form of this large individual against the dark rocks of the island. It was systematically quartering the ground, doubtless in a search for birds’ eggs, and we were even able to set up a telescope on the bridge to help people to see it. It was a little way off, and not photographable, but it was a real Polar Bear and was seen well by everyone. We all breathed a little sigh of relief….

The bear swam off, and so as not to alarm it by following in Zodiacs, we continued in the ship towards the impressive Monaco Glacier. The Captain took us in as close as the uncharted waters in front of the glacier would permit, and we stared in awe at this five kilometre wide, 40 metre high ice cliff stretching across in front of us. Few birds were here, and no seals, so we turned and headed back out into Liefdefjorden, spotting the bear again briefly as we passed. It had been a long and very satisfying day, so many people turned in early that night to catch up with their sleep. Tomorrow we were hoping to reach the pack ice, so it meant another early start.

Monday 2 July

Open seas when we came out on deck in the early morning – the ice was still well off to the north east. It was some time after breakfast when we saw the first signs on the horizon, and slowly but steadily we were getting closer. Flocks of Brunnich’s Guillemots, Little Auks, Northern Fulmars and Black-legged Kittiwakes were passing, with the occasional Glaucous Gull, Arctic Tern and skua, including our first Pomarine. Seals were by now appearing, with a Ringed and a Bearded followed by three single Harp Seals, the latter distinctive with their black faces and sinuous movements. We slowly skirted the southern edge of the pack, very unstable with the fresh southerly wind and heavy swell, before we rounded a point where there was a wide lead and the Captain considered it safe to enter the ice in our ice-strengthened vessel. For a couple of hours we slowly moved ahead until it was too risky to proceed, reaching the  northernmost position of the trip – 80 degrees 57.9 minutes N. We were now just 542 nautical miles from the North Pole, and the temperature was just four degrees C. The sun came out and lit up the surreal scene, and later Charly our Hotel Manager and his staff served us hot chocolate on the bow deck. We stayed in the ice all through the afternoon, finding three Ivory Gulls, many Black Guillemots, a Greater Black-backed Gull, an adult Long-tailed Skua and a Great Skua passing. We were still in the ice well into the evening, and enjoyed another bizarre experience – a barbecue supper! Eating burgers and hot dogs with gloves on is not easy, surrounded by hungry Glaucous Gulls. We left the ice about 9.00 pm, heading southwestwards back towards the main island of Spitsbergen. The ice stretched away apparently endlessly to the north east and east of us, seemingly still linked to the land in that direction. It had been a long day, but an unforgettable experience. 

Tuesday 3 July

This proved to be probably the best day of the whole trip for many people, and certainly it was the longest. Early risers saw a gathering of 30+ Harp Seals and a Minke Whale in the open sea as we headed towards Raudfjord on a glorious sunny morning. The whole northern coastline of Spitsbergen was laid out across our port side in the clear air, with dozens of pointed mountains reinforcing the island’s literal meaning.

Soon after breakfast we entered this lovely fjord, near the north-western corner of the island, and anchored off the mouth of Hamiltonbukta (bukta=bay) where Rolf had arranged a Zodiac cruise.

On this perfect sunny, still morning, all except half a dozen passengers climbed aboard five inflatables and off we went across the bay to follow the shoreline. No sooner had we reached it than a large Polar Bear suddenly appeared among some rocks – as we had been told several times that they can do! We stayed out on the water at an appropriate distance, guided by Rolf, and discreetly shadowed the bear as it worked its way along the rocky shore. It was apparently looking for birds’ nests and eggs as it went. We were fortunate enough to keep it in view for about 40 minutes, during which it rolled on its back in the snow with its feet in the air. We radioed the ship to alert the other passengers, some of whom had seen it from the decks with binoculars and a telescope, before taking one Zodiac back to collect them and give them a chance of a closer view. On our return we quickly relocated it, and had equally good views for a further half an hour. It was one of the most prolonged views obtained on any WildWings trip, and gave some of our best-ever photographic opportunities.

Not only was there the bear to watch, but also some very impressive bird cliffs, covered with Brunnich’s Guillemots and Kittiwakes on the high ledges. Hundreds of these were also on the sea below, along with Puffins, Common Eiders and Glaucous Gulls. A pair of King Eider was also spotted and a couple of Pinkfooted Geese. The whole group returned to the ship for lunch in high spirits, after such a perfect morning.

Our next proposed landing was a few miles away, at an island called Fugelsongen (birdsong), to visit an accessible Little Auk colony. Unfortunately another expedition cruise ship was anchored there already, so Rolf  decided to head on southwards down the west coast and land on Amsterdamoya (oya=island). It was windier on the exposed coast, but we landed successfully and had an extraordinarily rewarding hour there at Smeerenburg (meaning Blubber Town), a historical whaling site with the remains of blubber ovens, wooden houses and graves. The birding group walked round the lagoon closest to the landing, where to their amazement, among all the Common Eider they found a male Steller’s Eider. This is a rarity in Svalbard, usually found far to the east in Russian Arctic waters. There were several waders also present, including three Ringed Plover, two Ruddy Turnstone, and a pair of European Golden Plover, another rarity here, although sometimes to be found breeding. The Steller’s and the Golden Plover were both ‘firsts’ for WildWings in Svalbard.

The Expedition Team, having spoken by radio to the other ship at Fugelsongen, learned that conditions there were windy and exposed, and were told that the passengers had got quite wet in the Zodiacs. So Rolf made the decision to continue southwards, and to visit a beautiful fjord called Magdalenafjord, where there is another Little Auk colony. Although involving a steeper climb than at the first, it is a larger colony, and set in even more lovely surroundings. It proved to be a wise decision.

After dinner, we Zodiaced ashore at the sheltered Alkekongen (Little Auk mountain), set at the head of the fjord with a huge glacier as a backdrop. We could hear the eerie piping calls of the auks from the ship as we went ashore around 10.00 pm, and slogged up a steep scree slope where they nest under the rocks. Soon we were in among these magical little birds, no larger than Starlings, whirring and whizzing around in compact flocks just as Starlings do. Photography was very successful. A startled Reindeer slid and slithered down a snow patch nearby, and a very dark Arctic Fox was seen from the ship hunting along the shore. Ten each of Pinkfeet and Barnacle Geese were down on the fjord, and half a dozen Puffins. Most people were reluctant to return to the ship, and it was just before midnight before we were all back on board. We raised the anchor and set off again under the midnight sun, heading back out of the fjord and into the open sea. What a day it had been….

Wednesday 4 July

Early morning found us at sea off Prins Karls Forland, on the western coast. There were not many birds, but a distant dead whale floated by, a very unusual sight, surrounded by Fulmars and Kittiwakes. Soon we rounded the southern end of the island and headed up towards our destination at Poolepynten, a known hauling-out place for Walrus. Soon Rolf announced that they were there on the shore, the ship was anchored, and after lunch we disembarked in the Zodiacs. There was a large wodge of them on top of the beach, reddish-brown in colour, and some waving their ivory tusks in the air. Our Expedition Leader organised us into a long line across the beach, guides with rifles (in case of Polar Bears, not for the Walruses!) at each end, and we advanced very slowly and quietly towards them. It took half an hour to get as close as Rolf thought fit, when we could see and photograph them very well. Sometimes Expedition Leaders allow the group to get too close and the animals panic and rush into the water, an unforgivable crime. This was how it should be done.

When we had had our fill of these extraordinary animals, we returned slowly to the Zodiacs along the shore of a large lagoon behind the beach. Here we had a Red-throated Diver, 25+ Barnacle Geese, some with goslings, a dozen Arctic and a pair of Great Skuas, a nice summer plumage Red Knot, at least 25 Purple Sandpipers, two Long-tailed Duck and some seven Grey Phalaropes, as always eminently photographable. A very welcome arrival while we were on the shore was a lone Humpback Whale, which passed serenely by, blowing each time it surfaced, the sound being clearly audible over a great distance in the still, clear Arctic air.

We returned to the Multanovskiy in very good spirits and enjoyed another good dinner as we headed now into St. Jonsfjord. Here we reached the two huge glaciers at the far end, with two Ringed and five Bearded Seals on icefloes, before landing the Zodiacs in the late evening on the beach at Gjertsenodden. In an hour ashore we encountered three Pinkfeet, a couple of Purple Sandpipers, and half a dozen men who stripped off down to their swimming trunks and waded or splashed into the ice cold water. They emerged to tumultuous applause and were rushed back to the ship to warm up. Heroes all of them – and what a way to end the day….

Thursday 5 July

We\arrived in the morning in Isfjord, near Longyearbyen, where Rolf’s detailed knowledge of the area provided us with two great landings with which to end our expedition. In the morning we went ashore at the bird cliffs at Diabasodden, where we were able to look down on nesting Barnacle Geese and auks, and take great pictures of them. Snow Buntings were feeding newly-fledged young among the rocks, and out on the nearby tundra were over 30 Reindeer, nesting Purple Sandpipers and Arctic Skuas. About a third of the group joined Rolf for a long walk over the tundra to de Geerdalen, finding a Ptarmigan and a Purple Sandpiper’s nest on their trek.

During lunch the ship moved across Isfjord to the huge cliffs at Skansbukta, where we landed at the site of an abandoned gypsum mine. There were thousands of Fulmars up on the cliff ledges, and another very dark Arctic Fox was watched making its agile way along the slopes below the bird cliffs, doubtless searching for eggs. We left sadly at the end of the afternoon and headed back to Longyearbyen, reached late in the evening. An adult Ivory Gull was seen from the ship, just as one had passed over on our day of departure.

Friday 6 July

About half the passengers had departed to the airport very early in the morning, so it was a smaller complement than usual for breakfast. We \were taken into town by coach when we left the ship (by Zodiac to the quay, as a large cruise ship had purloined the pier) and our luggage went off to the airport. We enjoyed shopping for souvenirs, calling home, a visit to the excellent new museum, and some birding. Some of us saw a flock of eight King Eiders (six adult drakes) out in the centre of the fjord, having missed 13 (10 adult drakes) which had flown by earlier. Soon it was time to grab a quick lunch and join the coach to the airport. Here began a long but punctual journey, and by 9.30 pm we were in the terminal at Heathrow. Our luggage arrived quickly, final goodbyes were said, and suddenly – it was all over.

Conclusion

It had been quite a trip, full of happy memories which would be jogged by our photos as we will look back with longing on this Arctic adventure. Most of us had exceeded our objectives, and will always have a great respect for the wildlife which can survive in this harsh environment. Climate change is already affecting the birds and animals, and who knows what the future will hold for the Polar Bears, Walruses, Arctic Foxes and birds of Svalbard. As with so many places in the world, it seems to be a matter of trying to see as many of these as possible before it’s too late.