By Chris Collins, Tour Leader

Introduction
Although this was the first occasion this particular expedition had run, it was a spectacular success with many very special species seen. Indeed, for the sheer quality of the birds and animals which were recorded, it is hard to see how we could have done much better.
Whilst the discovery of a new population of Spoon-billed Sandpipers on the remote Chukotka coastline was undoubtedly the highlight for all those who were fortunate to be there, we also saw this critically endangered wader on the breeding grounds at Meinypil’gyno – a privilege very few birders have been able to experience.
Other ‘landbirds’ recorded during the expedition included Emperor Goose, Steller’s Eider, Steller’s Sea-Eagle, Long-toed Stint, Rock Sandpiper, Kamchatka Leaf-Warbler and Grey-crowned Rosy Finch, with the seabirds being equally impressive. As is often the case on trips to the Russian Far East, the Auks were one of the major attractions and we recorded twelve species between Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy and Anadyr including the critically endangered Kittlitz’s Murrelet and the localised Spectacled Guillemot.
Parakeet and Crested Auklets, Horned and Tufted Puffins were also all seen well, along with Laysan Albatross, Fork-tailed Storm-petrel, Red-faced Cormorant, Red-legged Kittiwake and Glaucous-winged Gull.
The expedition also had considerable success with mammals and ten species of cetaceans were recorded including the rarely encountered North Pacific Right Whale. Other whales included Baird’s Beaked, Northern Minke, Humpback, Sperm and Gray, with some incredible views of the last of these species. At Meinypil’gyno, we were also able to watch Belugas on the same zodiac cruise as the Gray Whales, whilst further north the backdrop was 5,000 Walruses hauled out on an isolated beach.
Ashore, the land mammals were equally impressive with the highlights including thirty five Brown Bears, the endemic Kamchatka Marmot, Arctic Ground-squirrel and the endemic subspecies of Arctic Fox on Medney Island.

27th June Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy
After a short excursion to some of the visitor attractions of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy, everyone boarded the Spirit of Enderby in time for a late lunch. As we sailed away from the wharf and across Avacha Bay, which is considered to be one of the largest natural harbours in the world, we saw our first quality birds of the expedition. Various alcids were found, with the highlights being some nice looks at both Spectacled Guillemot and Ancient Murrelet, species we were not expecting to see further north.
With most people heading off to their cabins after dinner, unfortunately, very few were out on deck when, in the gathering gloom, two North Pacific Right Whales were found. This species is considered one of the rarest whales on the planet with the world population thought to number low hundreds so this was not only a fantastic start to the trip but a highly noteworthy sighting !!!
28th June Zhupanova River
At dawn the Spirit of Enderby was anchored off the mouth of the Zhupanova River and after a briefing from Expedition Leader Rodney, we boarded the zodiacs for a three hour cruise up the river. Our principle objective was to find Steller’s Sea-Eagle and over the course of the morning we visited three occupied nests and enjoyed some phenomenal views of this majestic raptor.
Several Far Eastern Curlews were also found, along with a range of waterfowl (eg Greater Scaup, Mallard and Eurasian Wigeon) and several dozen Largha Seals. The Eagle, however, was our main target and as we returned towards the small community at the river mouth, our count for the morning rapidly reach almost fifty individuals – far more than Chris or any other members of the Expedition Team had ever seen at this locality !!!
After landing at the river mouth, a short excursion was offered to a wet grassland behind the village and we soon found three Long-toed Stints and several Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warblers. Both species appeared to be nesting in the tussock grass, so we had to proceed with care but everyone was able to see both species, along with a Muskrat which was swimming across a muddy pool.
All too soon, it was time to return to the ship and as we cruised out to sea and towards the Commander Islands, various seabirds were found including Laysan Albatross, Fork-tailed Storm-petrels, Tufted Puffin and good numbers of blue morph Northern Fulmars.
29th June Medney Island, Commander Islands
We began the day south of Bering Island in an area which is well known for cetaceans (due to a steeply dropping shelf edge) and as the ship cruised towards Medney Island, we found Humpback and Baird’s Beaked Whales, as well as some Orcas.
Our intended destination was the north-west corner of the island, Cape Matvey, where we enjoyed another zodiac cruise. There was a fantastic range of birds including Red-faced and Pelagic Cormorants, Horned and Tufted Puffins, Brunnich’s and Pigeon Guillemots, two Whiskered Auklets and a lone Rock Sandpiper, as well as several Sea Otters.
We then sailed to Paschanaya Bay where the glorious weather continued (a truly rare event in the Commander Islands) and we explored the area around the abandoned village and Border Guard post.
Several Arctic Foxes (of the endemic subspecies semenovi) were found, as well as a family party of Grey-crowned Rosy Finches. This species can be difficult to see well in the Commanders but we were fortunate and enjoyed some great looks as an adult male repeatedly returned to a deserted building to bring food to a couple of chicks.
Some of the group explored the surrounding slopes which were covered in flowers and home to both Pechora Pipits and Lapland Buntings. An extremely obliging Rock Ptarmigan was also found and this fed less than 10m from us, utterly confident in its camouflage and totally unconcerned at our presence.
30th June Bering Island, Commander Islands
Once again the day began early with an optional zodiac cruise to Ariy Karmen which is a small islet off the west end of Bering Island. The island is crammed with breeding seabirds and as we cruised around only a few metres offshore, we saw an excellent range of species including Crested and Parakeet Auklets, Pigeon, Common and Brunnich’s Guillemots, Red-legged Kittiwakes and both Red-faced and Pelagic Cormorants.
Returning to the ship for breakfast, we had hoped to visit North West Cape but with a heavy swell running, those in the scout boat concluded that the seas were unsuitable for safe zodiac operations so the landing was abandoned. Whilst the ship repositioned to the small community of Nikol’skoye, Katya gave a lecture about Sea Otters and after an early lunch and confirmation from the shore party that we would be able to wander around Nikol’skoye, the zodiacs soon shuttled us ashore.
Over the next couple of hours, we were free to explore and many of the birders headed along the shore where the highlights included Glaucous-winged Gulls and Mongolian Plovers.
All too soon it was time to return to the ship and as we sailed away from the Commander Islands, a number of cetaceans were seen including Humpback and Sperm Whales plus Dall’s Porpoises.
1st July Karaginsky Island
With a morning at sea, we had hoped to find some interesting birds but with a lot of fog, visibility was limited so two lectures were organised with Adam Walleyn discussing the legacy of Georg Steller (the naturalist on the second of Bering’s expeditions) and Christoph Zockler (SBS Recovery Taskforce) introducing us to the Spoon-billed Sandpiper.
After lunch and a briefing from Rodney, we headed ashore with Karaginsky being the first place we planned to search for Spoon-billed Sandpipers.
Splitting into four teams, we explored this vast plain and whilst Christoph considered the habitat looked good for the species, unfortunately, no Spooners were found. Despite this, we had a very productive afternoon with Red-necked Stint, Red-throated Pipit and Dusky Warbler amongst the species which were recorded.
2nd July Verkhoturova Island, Goven Peninsula
The day began with a pre-6am wake-up call and we were soon ashore on Verkhoturova Island which proved to be a spectacular location with the cliffs covered in breeding seabirds. The commonest species were Tufted Puffins, Brunnich’s Guillemots, Black-legged Kittiwakes and Pelagic Cormorants and we enjoyed some great views of all of these.
Looking down on the pools and seaweed covered rocks below, a flock of over one hundred Steller’s Eiders were also spotted and whilst these were a little distant with binoculars, the views were more than acceptable through the various telescopes which had been taken ashore.
Returning to the landing site, we cruised past some rocks where there were several dozen Steller’s Sea-Lions hauled out. These can be very wary of humans, so Rodney ensured that the zodiacs stayed a couple of hundred metres away from the animals and after watching them for a fair time, we returned to the ship.
Over lunch and early afternoon, the Spirit of Enderby repositioned to the Goven Peninsula which we were told was often an excellent place for Brown Bears. Indeed as the zodiacs headed for the beach, this proved to be an extremely accurate prediction, as there was a mother bear with two young cubs ambling along the shore only a few hundred metres from where we had intended to land.
We watched these from the zodiacs and with other bears soon spotted, it became apparent that landing here might not be such a good idea, so over the next couple of hours we cruised the coastline finding a total of eleven bears. As well as these, a distant Mountain Hare was spotted as well as both Black and Stejneger’s Scoters and a male King Eider that gave some stunning views as it swam a matter of metres from the zodiacs.
3rd July Tintikun Lagoon, Pakhachi
After another early breakfast, we boarded the zodiacs for the ride to Tintikun Lagoon which is surely one of the most scenic places along this stretch of the Russian coastline. With clear skies and little cloud, we were extremely fortunate and the views of the forested slopes and craggy peaks were truly spectacular.
Once the zodiacs (plus drivers) had navigated up the shallow and fast flowing river which linked the lake with the sea, we climbed aboard once again and set off to explore. There were various ducks on the lake including some obliging Harlequins and we also spotted a pair of Spotted Nutcrackers as we cruised quietly around the lake shore.
Several landings were also made and over the course of the morning a good selection of birds were found including Dusky, Arctic and Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warblers, Siberian Rubythroat, Pine Grosbeak and Oriental Greenfinch, with Siberian Accentor also heard singing by some. Probably the biggest surprise, however, was finding a lone Oystercatcher – whilst all the Wildwings group were very familiar with this species from home, it was the first time any of the Expedition Team had seen one in this part of Russia !!
Rodney had told us that this was another location where there might be good numbers of Brown Bears and although two were seen, the views were somewhat distant but after the spectacular sightings the previous day, this was not too much of a disappointment.
Once we were all back onboard the ship, we set off for our next destination, Pakhachi, where we were due to pick up Evgeny Syroechkovskiy (from the Spoon-billed Sandpiper Recovery Taskforce) and his wife, Elena.
After Rodney and Katya had met up with Evgeny and Elena, they then spoke with the Border Guards at the village and permission was granted for a late zodiac cruise around the waterways at Pakhachi. The village is reputed to have the largest Slaty-backed Gull colony in the world, with 20,000 pairs nesting and there were certainly plenty around!
4th-5th July Chukotka Coast
Two days had been set aside in the itinerary for searching isolated locations along the Chukotka coastline for unknown populations of Spoon-billed Sandpipers and on the first of these we split into three groups and searched a vast shingle plain.
Although no Sandpipers were located, the day was still most enjoyable with an excellent selection of waders recorded including Mongolian Plover, Far Eastern Curlew, Great Knot, Red-necked, Temminck’s and Long-toed Stints, Wood Sandpiper and Dunlin. At least eight Sandhill Cranes were also spotted, a species which breeds in this part of Russia despite generally being considered a North American bird.
The following day, the ship had relocated further along the coastline and we split into three groups with these once again led by Christoph, Evgeny and Chris. Today, however, would prove to be a very special day for all those with Chris, as not long after crossing a bog and fording a glacial melt-water stream (thereby ensuring almost everyone had wet feet !!), we spotted a summer plumage wader about 100m ahead of us on the crowberry covered shingle.
The bird had a bright red throat and just didn’t look right for Red-necked Stint but the distance and angle meant we could not be 100% sure of its identity. After all, could we really be looking at one of the rarest waders on the planet within a matter of minutes of reaching suitable habitat??
After a few record shots had been taken, the bird flew over a bank and onto the shore of a large lake. Quickly repositioning, we carefully peered over the bank and there, no more than 15m from us was a full summer plumage adult Spoon-billed Sandpiper – a very special moment for all those who were privileged to be there which became even better when a second individual flew in for a few seconds !!
After the first bird had been documented with photos and video, Chris radioed the rest of the expedition team allowing everyone to share the fantastic news. By all accounts, there was a good deal of celebrating and a few tears of joy were shed........ Rodney Russ had worked tirelessly to put this expedition together and he was as delighted as everyone at the news.
Back at the site and after the bird had flown back onto the shingle, we moved a few metres and then experienced the extraordinary spectacle of the Sandpiper walking ever closer to us, singing and then sitting down on what was surely a nest only five metres from us. Although we were largely hidden behind the bank, the bird seemed utterly unconcerned at our presence. Once again, the group all looked at each other utterly stunned at what we had just witnessed and another radio message went out informing the rest of the Team what had just been witnessed.
Following a request from Evgeny and Christoph (both leading figures within the Spoon-billed Sandpiper Recovery Taskforce) to confirm that the bird did indeed have a nest, Chris approached the spot and there was a cryptically hidden nest containing three eggs.
Within a minute, we had retreated and a matter of moments later, the bird was back on its nest and we began to appreciate the enormity of what had been found. There are thought to be possibly only one hundred pairs of this enigmatic species left in the world and here was an unknown breeding population !!!!
After watching the bird on it’s nest over lunch, we continued the search and within 800m or so another Spoon-billed Sandpiper was found. Given the distance we had walked, we were clearly in a different territory and as we settled down to observe this new individual, it slowly walked towards us and then sat down in precisely the same manner as the previous individual. Not only had we come across another territory but clearly this bird also had eggs or chicks !!!
It was barely two and a half hours since we had found the first bird and here was another one – a truly spectacular day.
With the news on the radios informing us that Christoph’s team had also located a territory, the painstaking work of Rodney, Christoph and Evgeny was well rewarded, as we had clearly discovered a crucial site for this unique wader.
By late afternoon, the teams had not discovered any further Sandpipers so the zodiacs transported the keen birders to the first territory where everyone was able to share the privilege of watching the bird at it’s nest, from approx 30 metres away.
It had been an incredible experience and as the zodiacs cruised back down the river, a pair of Gyrfalcons was seen perched on some rocky stacks – a fantastic end to the day.
6th July Bukhta Pavla, Bukhta Petra and Anastasia Bay
After a couple of days on the flat crowberry-covered shingle, today was a very different experience with a mountain walk between two beautiful bays, Bukhta Pavla and Bukhta Petra. With Spring having reached this region much later than usual, there was still a lot of lying snow and as we climbed, this steadily became deeper.
Indeed, the walk proved to be far more challenging than expected but despite the effort, there was some very worthwhile wildlife to see with the highlight being a Kamchatka, or Black-capped, Marmot. This localised species is endemic to a comparatively small part of Far Eastern Russia and was a great addition to the expedition’s mammal list.
With so much snow, the number of birds was rather low but nevertheless we persevered and enjoyed some nice looks at several Bluethroats, as well Arctic Redpoll, Common Rosefinch and a single Dusky Thrush.
Later in the day, the ship entered Anastasia Bay which was to be the last area we would search for Spoon-billed Sandpipers. Sadly we drew a blank, although there were plenty of other birds with several Steller’s Sea-Eagles being the highlight of the landing.
The area was also very rich in wildfowl with thirteen species recorded. Although many of these were birds we were familiar with from Europe (eg White-fronted Goose, Northern Pintail and Greater Scaup), there were good numbers of other species too, with well over 1,000 Black Scoters, smaller numbers of Stejneger’s Scoters and Harlequins and at least ten King Eiders.
7th-8th July Meinypil’gyno
Shortly after the Spirit of Enderby arrived off the village of Meinypil’gyno, Rodney and Katya headed ashore to make arrangements with the Border Guards and other members of the SBS Recovery Team who were staying in the village.
Once details had been finalised, we split into two groups to visit two separate Spoon-billed Sandpiper territories with Chris leading one party who were due to visit a nest which was a couple of kilometres walk from Meinypil’gyno.
The zodiac ride ashore was a very special experience with dozens of Largha Seals hunting salmon in the river mouth. There were also good numbers of Gray Whales and upwards of ten Belugas. As we were here to visit the Spoon-billed Sandpiper territories, however, we reluctantly dragged ourselves away from the spectacle at the river mouth.
Having landed at the village, we met up with Simon Buckell who had spent the last couple of months studying the Spoon-billed Sandpipers at Meinypil’gyno and then headed off. It was only a 20-30 minute walk and over the next couple of hours, we were able to watch the bird on its nest at a range of about 25m or so. As it was sitting low in the grass and so well camouflaged, it was not that easy to spot but nevertheless we were truly privileged to be here and watching one of the rarest birds on the planet.
On returning to the village, there was a most enjoyable cultural performance which involved many of the local youngsters. It was very obvious that our visit was a major event for the inhabitants of Meinypil’gyno and it was humbling to see how much effort they had gone to on our behalf.
Later that night, the Expedition Team brought the team from WWT plus the incubators which contained the eggs and recently hatched chicks for the new captive breeding programme onto the Spirit of Enderby. It was a nerve wracking time for all but by 3am, everything was onboard and Nigel Jarrett confirmed that all the eggs and chicks were safely installed in their new homes.
The following morning, two options were offered with most of the Wildwings group joining Chris on a trip to look for Emperor Geese. This involved a fairly long zodiac ride up the main river at Meinypil’gyno and then a pleasant walk across the tundra.
With the assistance of another member of the SBS Recovery Team, Jochen Dierschke, we soon found the geese and over the next few hours also saw Sandhill Crane, White-billed Diver, several dozen Long-tailed Skuas and a lone Arctic Hare.
All too soon, it was time to leave the area and continue northward and during the late afternoon, the undoubted highlight were several Kittlitz’s Murrelets, a species which is now classified as critically endangered by Birdlife International.
It was after dinner, however, when we had another major stroke of luck when it was realised that a pinkish blur on a distant beach was actually thousands of Walruses. Despite the moderately late hour and the fading light, it was too good an opportunity to pass up and the zodiacs were soon readied and we set off to get some closer looks.
Having unsuccessfully searched various spots over the previous days for these animals, it was fantastic to finally locate them, although the twilight conditions meant it was difficult to get any photos or video. As a result and after consulting with the Captain, Rodney announced we would spend the night in the bay and there would be another cruise early the following morning.
9th July Pika
The last full day of the expedition began very early with a 04:30am wake-up call and shortly afterwards the zodiacs were in the water and we set off once again to the Walrus colony. With the light steadily improving, there was a lot more activity than the previous evening and with some of the animals swimming close to the zodiacs and Grey Whales a matter of metres away too, it was a magical couple of hours.
With a couple of hundred miles still to run, we reluctantly had to return to the ship and continue on to Anadyr. With bags to pack, an Expedition Recap and a lecture by Evgeny Syroechkovskiy about the work of the Spoon-billed Sandpiper Recovery Taskforce, the day soon passed and after a Farewell Dinner many headed off to bed.
10th-11th July Anadyr
It was the final morning of the expedition and after breakfast we reluctantly disembarked from the Spirit of Enderby. It had been a fantastic trip which had exceeded the most optimistic of predictions and with some time in Anadyr, we even managed to see a new bird with a Siberian Accentor found on the edge of town shortly before the long flight back to Moscow........
These notes describe some of the trip highlights of the voyage, however, for a detailed species list please see our separate systematic list.
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