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WildWings, 577 Fishponds Road, Fishponds, Bristol. BS16 3AF.UK
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Early Saturday morning we met 24 participants at Heathrow Airport for our short flight to Warsaw where we met two more giving us 26 participants on this WildWings Poland in Spring tour.
In Warsaw we were met by Jezior our enthusiastic Polish guide and boarded our coach for the journey to Bialowieza Forest. Skirting central Warsaw we crossed the Vistula river and were soon in the rolling countryside of eastern Poland, where birds such as White Stork and Hooded Crows, as well as the strikingly marked Jackdaws were much in evidence. At a comfort stop en-route we not only enjoyed the chance to have a drink and use the facilities, but also saw Barred Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat and Blackcap. Back on the coach the birdlist continued to grow with Common Buzzard, Montagu’s Harrier, Marsh Harrier as well as Black Stork and more White Storks. As we neared the hotel a lucky few spotted a Wild Boar by the roadside, under the towering trees of the Bialowieza Forest . It was an auspicious start. Efficiently checked into our rooms, dinner was ready shortly afterwards and after a hearty meal we headed for bed, lulled by the cacophony of singing Corncrakes and Thrush Nightingales.
Sunday morning was bright and sunny and most of us were up-and-about early. Many chose to take the optional short bus ride through the village of Teremiski to be shown a Black Woodpecker at a nest feeding young. Collared and Spotted Flycatchers were much in evidence and a Lesser Spotted Eagle made several passes overhead. In a nearby reed bed Great Reed Warblers “grated” away and Dick found a very confiding Savi’s Warbler that gave exceptional views for several folk, who also encountered a Grey-headed Woodpecker as it flew around calling, perching occasionally.
A further guided walk discovered yet another Black Woodpecker and a White-backed Woodpecker too, plus a Three-toed Woodpecker that was heard but not seen. No less than four Lesser Spotted Eagles were seen, with one bird displaying. Hawfinch, Thrush Nightingale and Wrynecks were common and a real treat to enjoy. River Warblers were not much in evidence this morning having only recently started to arrive for the summer, but they could be heard singing their remarkable steam-train-like song. They would be more readily seen later in the week. For some a Corncrake revealed itself – what a treat!
Around the hotel we found Black Redstarts, Serin, White-backed and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Red-backed Shrike, a Barred Warbler busy nest building and a male White Spotted Bluethroat singing as it thought about establishing a territory. That was not to be and he moved on.
Later, after our evening meal we took a short drive into the forest and after a very impressive bout of imitative whistling by Jezior, a Pygmy Owl responded to Dick’s imitation and gave everyone great views (including in the scope) as Woodcock constantly displayed in their bizarre ‘roding’ display overhead, at times so close that we could hear both parts of their call. In the gathering dusk we headed back to the coach, the hotel, a swift celebration in the bar, and so to bed.
Monday dawned another bright and sunny day. Those that joined the early morning walk in the forest were rewarded with White-backed, Middle Spotted and Great Spotted Woodpeckers and somewhat frustratingly, heard but did not see Three-toed Woodpecker (again). Other gems included a Red-breasted Flycatcher along with Collared and Spotted Flycatchers, Golden Orioles and a good selection of common warblers.
Meanwhile the local park was, as ever full of birds and sounds, much of it due to the many Fieldfares that were fledging young. Every tree seemed to have a Spotted Flycatcher or a Wryneck calling from it, and Serins sang their jangly song high from the tree tops. The reeds that surround the ponds held Great Reed Warblers and a Common Rosefinch sang its “Pleased to meet you” song from one of the bushes. During an ice cream break eight Common Cranes circled overhead much to everyone’s delight. A couple of Icterine Warblers were found singing and it was great fun to identify the different songs and calls that they were imitating. A walk back through the meadows gave us views of Red-backed Shrike, Sparrowhawk and a brief flight view of Great Grey Shrike.
For others, near the hotel a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker nest hole was a good find and we were to revisit it at leisure throughout the week. It was a luxury to be able to stand quietly a few yards away from the nest and watch the adults visiting every few minutes to feed the hungry mouths inside. A close view of female Goshawk perched in a tree must have made impressive viewing to the lucky observers. Also, a few people whilst watching a Beaver close to the hotel were lucky enough to see a male Penduline Tit. Most of us had to wait until later in the week for that species. A Camberwell Beauty was the most noteworthy butterfly – they are usually seen every year and this year we were to record several though the week.
Tuesday kept up the run of fine weather starting off a tad cool but turning out nice and sunny. The morning was spent at Lake Siemianowka visiting both the north east corner then the south east corner. As soon as we got out of the coach we were treated to many Whiskered, White-winged Black and Black Terns, giving good views and allowing us to become familiar with their calls as well as their plumage characteristics. As well as many Black-headed Gulls we also saw Little and Caspian Gulls. Marsh Harriers were common here, dwarfed however by the White-tailed Eagles that showed on several occasions. Another treat was to enjoy the many Garganey that we found, some of which gave us great views in the scopes.
As we moved to the south east corner of the lake stops were made to watch Hoopoe and Ortolan Bunting. On arriving at our destination we soon saw Citrine and Blue-headed Wagtails but raptors were very much the order of the day with White-tailed Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle as well as a much rarer Great Spotted Eagle. Common and Honey Buzzards, Marsh Harrier and Hobby made up the supporting cast.
Several butterfly species were noted including the expected Small Pearl-bordered Fritillaries and Violet Coppers in their usual corner. Dragonflies were much in evidence, with many Four Spotted Chasers having just emerged, as well as a few Downy Emeralds, both species giving gave great photographic opportunities, and White-faced Darters were on one of the ponds.
Various groups ventured out after their evening meal. One such group managed to see three Wild Boar whilst another saw two or three Beavers and enjoyed a beer in a local bar. What a great day!
Wednesday and the good weather continued, a touch of ground frost greeted us at dawn, before it warmed up quickly into another fine and sunny day. Most of us started with a visit to the Primeval Forest where we went in two groups, each with a special local guide, licensed to take visitors into the “holy of holies” – the Strict Reserve. The walk took about three hours and gave a chance to see a unique and virtually untouched remnant of the forest that once covered much of Europe. These guides’ knowledge of this part of the forest and its history made it an especially fascinating trip.
Middle Spotted, Black, White-backed and Great Spotted Woodpeckers were all seen as well as Red-breasted, Collared and Spotted Flycatchers. We also saw three Red Deer, and, as we left, a Red Fox eyed us suspiciously from the other side of the pasture before running off.
After breakfast some of us headed off for a gentle stroll along a boardwalk where we enjoyed White-backed Woodpeckers at a nest, as well as good views of Middle, Lesser and Great Spotted Woodpeckers, a singing Red-breasted Flycatcher, as well as many Collared and Spotted Flycatchers and a couple of Crested Tits.
Others, closer to the hotel, caught up with Grey-headed Woodpecker – a noisy species that can be quite frustrating to find at times. The female Goshawk (and was she big !) was seen again. The Barred Warblers and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers were busy at their nests and more and more birds were singing as the migrants flooded in.
After a full morning, most of us had a quite afternoon before heading out after an early dinner. The aim of the excursion was to witness a Great Snipe lek. This rare migrant bird breeds in the marshes of Eastern Europe and it is a great privilege to be able to experience their courtship display at dusk. As our guide led us out onto the marsh we were grateful for our Wellington boots as the water was occasionally ankle deep. A Wild Boar, startled at our approach broke cover and ran a good half-mile in full view. A Roe Deer bounded off too, and in the distance another bobbed nervously. Sedge Warblers, Whinchats, Grasshopper Warblers and Corncrakes all sang, providing an aural curtain through which we strained to hear the snipe. White-winged Black Terns gave their guttural calls as they flew over, and distantly a Common Crane gave its bugling call. Then the Great Snipe started to call, a subtle and soft sound, like a young child who has yet to learn table manners smacking their lips eagerly in anticipation. Occasionally we would spot one jump clear into the air, tail fanned to show off its dazzling white outer feathers. On occasion we would spot one in the scope as it sat up on a tussock for a few moments, head cocked and tail fanned whilst it called. We of course kept a respectful distance so as not to hinder the important activity of lek and those of us with scopes shared them with those who did have them. Finally, as dusk closed in, and enriched by a magical evening we headed to the coach. On the drive home a Beech Marten crossed the road in front of the bus.
Thursday and the weather, as per previous days, was cool early before then becoming fine and sunny. The early trip was to our favourite spot in the forest to find Nutcracker and were not to be disappointed, soon spotting one perched atop a fir tree where it gave prolonged views. Again, scopes were shared and we all enjoyed the treat to it’s full. Meanwhile Tree Pipits and a single Woodlark sang. Some of us then headed off on a walk through the forest to a tower hide, whilst others walk down a track to a disused railway bridge. Both groups discovered new and different birds. A Marsh Warbler was a nice find, the first of the week, whilst the others got good views of a pair of Crested Tits, and, for one person, a Hazel Hen perched out in full view in a tree was the reward for a diligent search. We all enjoyed an extremely confiding River Warbler that just reeled and reeled from the top of a bush whilst a Lesser Spotted Eagle, a Common Buzzard and a Honey Buzzard all flew over. Other good birds here were Kingfisher and a Red-breasted Flycatcher.
Early morning walkers in the forest around the hotel found Wheatear, a fine adult male Red-breasted Flycatcher, a perched/hunting Lesser Spotted Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Lesser and Common Whitethroat, Barred Warbler and Golden Oriole.
The trip earlier in the week to Lake Siemianowka had been so successful that another visit just had to be offered and that is where many of us chose to spend a relaxing and informal afternoon. Again raptors and marsh terns were the main attraction, along with the Citrine Wagtail and the Common Cranes. Two lucky (or rather, very skilled) observers managed to see two Hazel Hens on the ground before they flew away not to be relocated.
Another evening of optional post dinner walks followed: Those on ‘Beer and Beavers’ with Dave saw four Beavers (before heading to the bar!) whilst the owling group with Dick and Jezior had two flight views of a persistently singing Tengmalm’s Owl.
Friday was fine again but not quite so sunny (was the weather beginning to break?). After breakfast we left our hotel in the forest and headed north to the Biebrza Marshes.
A short stop in search of Roller (now an extremely rare breeding bird in Poland) was unsuccessful but a flock of eighty-five Ravens was quite a sight there, and it is always a treat to watch Lesser Spotted Eagles and listen to singing Hoopoe and Icterine Warbler. We then moved to some Fishponds where we saw two White-tailed Eagles, one taking a fish, two Caspian Gulls, several gorgeous breeding plumaged Red-necked Grebes, singing Marsh, Reed and Great Reed Warblers and best of all a male Penduline Tit watched at its nest suspended from a branch in a willow tree beside the path.
Another brief stop was made at a lake where two more White-tailed Eagles put on a show for us before we continued our journey to Goniadz where we were to stay for the final two nights of the trip.
Whilst some of us were unpacking, other had their eyes peeled and soon spotted an Elk out on the marshes. The word soon got round and there was a line at the telescopes to get better views. Before heading out, we enjoying a drink and a bite to eat and then spent the evening overlooking the marsh, first from a raised viewpoint very close to the hotel and then the nearby bridge. At least nine Elk and five Roe Deer were seen as well as several Marsh Harriers and a Montagu’s Harrier, at least sixteen Common Cranes, many White Storks, singing Corncrakes and Grasshopper Warblers, and a very unusual treat, looking down into a White Storks nest from above. The four tiny young were clearly visible as they were tended to by the parents.
Saturday our run of luck with the weather looked like it had run out as we awoke to a grey skies morning and eventually a brief spell of rain, but this cleared as the day progressed and turned into a lovely sunny afternoon.
Our first stop was at a site for Aquatic Warbler, although the first thing spotted as we arrived was an Elk in the bushes – eyeing us warily as it decided that if it kept perfectly still we would not spot it and it would be safe. The latter was always going to be true – but the fortunately the former was not – and we enjoyed great scope views. More Elk came into view but the Aquatics were harder to connect with and it took time. Montagu’s Harriers constantly quartered the surrounding marsh. Initially just glimpses of the warblers were seen by some but good scope views were eventually had by pretty much everyone, with birds often singing atop reedmace, and then sometimes launching into a parachute display flight. In addition a handsome Black-tailed Godwit landed just yards away and began feeding giving excellent photographic opportunities.
The rain held off long enough and we were back on the coach before it started in earnest. Our next stop was a roadside marsh and that held scores and scores of breeding White-winged Black Terns that paraded up and down in front of us in a magnificent display. We also found a pair of Whooper Swans nesting here which we watched as they tried (almost successfully) to be inconspicuous.
We then headed to a small village overlooking the Narew River. Here we stopped a small farm where the farmer’s wife provided tea and coffee to go with our packed lunch as we watched the passing terns: Five species! Black, White-winged Black, Whiskered, Little and Common. Waders included some more Black-tailed Godwits, Redshanks, some Dunlin and a couple of Wood Sandpipers. A feeding Black Stork was spotted at the same moment as twenty seven Common Cranes flew in, in several small flocks. It was hard to know which way to look. White Storks were nesting on the barn, and many more fed out on the marsh.
The afternoon was spent in lovely sunshine looking for Bluethroats and harriers. On arrival at our Bluethroat spot a male pitched up almost immediately, singing atop a nearby bush much to the delight of the photographers. Another male was found a few yards away. They continued to sing for quite some time and it was quite an effort to turn our backs and walk away.
After pausing briefly at the hotel, we rounded off our birding day in search of harriers. A walk down a gravel track through the marshes soon yielded us a Marsh Harrier, followed by a splendid male Montagu’s that preened and perched on a post at about fifty yards range. As we revelled in the great views of this handsome bird, it got suddenly much better as a male Pallid Harrier swooped in, attacking the Montagu’s. It was a fantastic sight seeing these two birds of prey together in the sky giving excellent comparison views. A few minutes later one lucky observer had a sighting of a ringtail Hen Harrier giving him four species of harrier in less than a hour.
We could have been forgiven for thinking the day was done, but Jezior discovered a male Corncrake singing in a pasture that he thought we may be able to actually see, so he beckoned us over. Indeed it could be seen as it called and crept through the grass and was eventually watched for about ten minutes in a patch of short grass as it called incessantly. What a fantastic finale to a great day and a great week.
Our last treat was a toast to the tour followed by a great farewell meal in restaurant on the banks of the Biebrza river.
Sunday and again fine as we set off for Warsaw Airport. We arrived in good time and perhaps a little dazed by this return to the consumers world, shopped and lunched until it was time to board the plane for a short and uneventful flight back to Heathrow. With all luggage safely collected we bade our farewells and set off home.
We had recorded 165 species of birds through the week, plus many mammals, insects, plants and trees. We had enjoyed comfortable lodgings, good food and beer, excellent company, were blessed with fine weather and had visited some very special places. This was yet again another very successful Wildwings visit to Poland.
