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WildWings, 577 Fishponds Road, Fishponds, Bristol. BS16 3AF.UK
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Saturday/Sunday: Eight participants plus David Fell met up at Gatwick Airport and after an uneventful flight arrived in Goa and transferred to our hotel, the Beira Mar in Baga. After unpacking and showering some of the group birded from the balcony, some from the bar/pool area and others just relaxed. Birds seen during this period were Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters,White-throated Kingfisher, Brahminy and Black Kites, Besra, Shikra, Booted and Indian Spotted Eagles and Oriental Honey Buzzard. After a short introductory meeting a planned walk around Baga Fields was cancelled because of rain. When this had passed we had a “crake watch” from the pool area seeing Painted Snipe, Paddyfield Warbler, Purple Heron, several Night Herons and Spotted Owlet. After a hearty Goan meal and a few Kingfisher beers we retired to bed tired but eagerly looking forward to the next day’s birding.
Monday: An early start and a Barn Owl flew by as we waited for our transport. The taxis took us to Candolim where we birded the road up to the bridge.There were plenty of mynas, kites and drongos along with Greenish and Blyth’s Reed Warblers but a close up Indian Roller took centre stage. A flock of Indian Swiftlets chattered away overhead whilst House Swifts and Red-rumped Swallows hawked for insects.
At the bridge a House Swift was discovered on the ground. After careful inspection to see if it was injured, and photos taken, it was launched into the air and to every one’s delight it flew off seemingly unharmed by its ordeal. Our proposed walk down by the river was cut short when we found that a small bridge had been removed. We took a short taxi ride to another track into a wooded area and immediately found ourselves in the middle of a feeding party. In the flock we saw Brown-capped Pygmy and Rufous Woodpeckers, Black-rumped Flameback, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Jungle Babblers, Black-lored Tit, Common Iora, White-rumped Munia and Red-whiskered Bulbul whilst a very sleepy Spotted Owlet peered at us from a nearby tree. Overhead was Oriental Honey Buzzard and a white phased Booted Eagle. Back at the taxis, one of the group was busy photographing a juvenile Common Hawk Cuckoo. The afternoon was spent looking at the marsh from the comfort and shade of the balconies. White-breasted Waterhen, Indian Pond Heron, five Painted Snipe, two or three Cinnamon Bitterns, Watercock and Indian grey Mongoose were all highlights.
Tuesday: Early next morning and we were on our way to Morjim Beach. We stopped for breakfast and viewed a small marsh. The hoped for Grey-headed Lapwing and Pacific Golden Plover were absent but we saw three Stork-billed Kingfishers, Little Heron and a magnificent Oriental Honey Buzzard perched in a dead tree. At Morjim we checked the beach where gulls and terns gather for high-tide roost. Among a crowd of Brown-headed Gulls we managed to find a handful of Black-headed and Slender-billed Gulls and a few Gull-billed, Caspian and Lesser Crested Terns. Large gulls were few and far between but we saw Caspian and Heuglin’s but alas no Pallas’s Gull. On the beach were large flocks of waders and after some scoping (and photographing) we had Small Praticole, Lesser and Greater Sandplovers, Kentish Plover, Little Stint and Curlew Sandpiper. A Changeable Hawk Eagle circled overhead. A walk through some scub flushed a Barred Buttonquail and a stop en route back to the hotel gave us three Yellow-wattled Lapwing. In the afternoon we went to Fort Aguada, over looking Panjim and the Mandovi River. Although it was quiet we did manage to find Grey-breasted Prinia, Common Buzzard, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Indian Robin and Pompadour Green Pigeon. At the well known pitta site we only connected with Orange-headed Thrush. Back at the hotel a quick look over the marsh from the balcony produced a probable first for Goa in the shape of a male Little Bittern which gave scope views as it flew and perched in front of us.
Wednesday : Today we went to Saligao, a regular site for Brown Wood Owl but it was not there. Around the spring, where the locals wash themselves and their clothes and sometimes their vehicles we saw a white phase Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Brown-cheeked Fulvetas, Pallid Harrier, Malabar Whistling Thrush, White-browed Bulbul, Thick-billed Flowerpecker and a pair of Purple-rumped Sunbirds busily nest building. As we waited for our taxis we saw a magnificent Black Eagle followed by an Indian Spotted Eagle and then a Steppe Eagle. As we viewed the latter we caused a mini traffic jam as cars and bikes weaved around us. An afternoon trip was taken to the water lily covered Carambolin Lake which was full of birds including Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Purple Swamphen, several flocks of noisy Lesser Whistling Ducks and some Pygmy Cotton Geese. Whiskered Terns hawked over the lake whilst flocks of Baya Weaver lined the adjacent wires. Open-billed Storks could be seen in a distant field and a few flew over the lake as the sky blackened and our birding was curtailed as we were enveloped in a downpour. Back at the hotel we were hit by another storm of monsoon proportions. Heavy rain, wind, thunder and lightning which lasted for hours, flooding a room on the third floor with water off the balcony, blowing plant pots from a neighbouring balcony and lighting up the whole sky.
Thursday: Today we set off at first light with our local guide Loven to Dona Paulo an area of grass covered volcanic rock. As we arrived we were greeted by row after row of Green Bee-eaters and Rosy and Brahminy Starlings perched on the wires. We soon found Oriental Skylark, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks, Short-toed Lark along with Tawny, Richard’s and Paddyfield Pipits. A Desert Wheatear was a nice surprise but frustration set in when a quail was flushed several times and the all to brief flight views did not lead to any positive ID. Then on to Santa Cruz. Again for the second consecutive year because of the late monsoon the paddy fields were not being worked and the expected waders were not there. We decided to go to Saligao again and were successful with Brown Wood Owl. We also saw Emerald Dove, Booted Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Common Buzzard and a female Amur Falcon.
The afternoon was again spent looking at the marsh from the balcony and the pool area. A European Roller was a welcome addition to the list and the Watercock was still present along with Cinnamon Bittern, eight adult Painted Snipe (one with three young) and Pintail Snipe.
Friday: A full day out today at Charao Island and Mayem Lake again with Loven. Our first stop was at the lake and as we alighted from the bus two Malabar Pied Hornbills gave themselves away with their manic calls closely followed by a very obliging Rufous Woodpecker. A walk down the lake side added Indian Cuckoo, Blue-winged Leafbird, Common Woodshrike, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Crested Treeswift, Grey Nightjar, Black-hooded Oriole, Bronze and White-bellied Drongos, a juvenile Ultramarine Flycatcher and the huge Blue-bearded Bee-eater. An afternoon raptor watch found White-eyed Buzzard, Booted, Steppe and Great Spotted Eagles, dark phase Changeable Hawk Eagle and Common Buzzard. In a nearby flooded field were c40 Glossy Ibis and several mixed flocks of waders. Whilst searching through these a brilliant find were two Great Knot hiding away in vegetation. As we waited for our return ferry more waders were added to our ever growing list – Curlew, Whimbrel, Marsh Sandpiper, Temminck’s Stint, Grey Plover, Black-winged Stilt and Terek Sandpiper. Seven Ruddy Shelduck flew in to land on a sandbank while overhead a White-bellied Sea Eagle was harassed by an Osprey as a male Amur Falcon flew over and a Lesser Adjudant Stork flew up river. As the ferry left we saw, in the mangroves, a Collared Kingfisher – much to Loven’s amazement.
Saturday: Yet another failed attempt for pitta at Aguada so on to Arpora where we saw Black-headed Cuckoo Shrike, Common Woodshrike, Puff-throated Babbler, white phase Booted Eagle, Oriental Honey Buzzard and a magnificent White-bellied Sea Eagle nest building. We then went on to Lilas, a German café/restaurant for brunch. Leaving the taxis we decided to walk back to the hotel via the new bridge and search the football pitch for pipits. We were rewarded for our efforts with Richard’s and Blyth’s Pipit perched on adjacent posts giving excellent comparison views. The afternoon was free and watching from the balcony produced Painted Snipe, Watercock, Ruddy-breasted Crake and two Cinnamon Bittern. A Crimson Sunbird was also seen in the hotel grounds. Some of the group made a return visit to Morjim and managed to see two Pallas’s Gulls, 400+ Small Pratincole, 15 Open-billed Storks and about 20 Black-faced Langur.
Sunday: The entire group was assembled at 5.30 am awaiting transport to take us for our four night stay at the Backwoods Camp, right on the border of the Bhagvan Mahavir NP, in the Sahyadri Hills on the western side of the Ghats. This was definitely the highlight of the whole trip and we thoroughly enjoyed the relaxed and peaceful atmosphere of the simple forest camp, its excellent food and our very knowledgeable guide – Loven. Today, even before we had reached camp and its delicious buffet breakfast, we had seen Malabar Parakeet, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia, Black and Red-headed Buntings, Yellow-headed woodpecker, Velvet Nuthatch and Greater Racket-tailed Drongo. On a mid-morning walk we saw Mountain Hawk Eagle, Yellow-browed Black and Flame-throated Bulbuls. During the afternoon some of the group took a walk and in a fruiting tree saw Malabar Grey Hornbill, Crimson-fronted Barbet. A Blue-eared Kingfisher was seen by the river. A watch from a field near Tambdi Surla Temple added Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Dark-fronted Babbler, White-rumped Needletail and Black-throated Munia. This was followed by probably the best sighting of the whole trip as not one, not two, but three Great Hornbills flew in single file, one after the other, over our heads followed by a White-bellied Woodpecker. The hornbills landed in a tree and gave scope views. Not that scopes were needed, they are huge! As we made our way back to the bus we saw Blue-capped Rock Thrush, a great bird but somewhat lost after the hornbill experience.
Monday: The early morning walk was to an area of scrub behind the Barabhumi School and here we saw Brown-breasted Flycatcher, Greater Flameback and Little Spiderhunter. After breakfast we were taken into the forest to a pair of roosting Sri Lanka Frogmouths before doing a raptor watch seeing Mountain Hawk Eagle, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Booted Eagle and Kestrel. The afternoon was spent back in the forest seeing Heart-spotted (stopping) Woodpecker with its “punk hair-do”, White-bellied Blue Flycatcher and possibly Spot-bellied Eagle Owl (we were in it’s territory but the flight view was very brief so no positive ID). An evening trip gave us Grey Nightjar.
Tuesday: Early morning and we were walking up the riverside behind the temple trying to find Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher. We failed but did manage excellent views of Blue-eared Kingfisher as it perched on a rock, an excellent photo opportunity. An Indian Blue Robin was all to brief and a female Malabar Trogon was difficult to see for some. The party split into two groups for the return journey, each taking either side of the river, and one group saw the three Great Hornbills again. On the next walk Western Crowned Warblers were in abundance probably due to an overnight fall and brief views were had of White-rumped Shama. During the heat of the day an intrepid trio ventured into the forest and found six Brown-backed Needletails and Black-naped Oriole before giving into to the relentless biting of the mosquitoes. Once again back to the field near the temple but very quiet here and on the way back we heard Jerdon’s Nightjar.
Wednesday: Today we drove to Bondla. We walked along the tarmac approach road through the forest before having a packed breakfast beside the reservoir, we then travelled on to the zoo. New birds recorded were Brown Barbet, Oriental Turtle Dove, Pied Cuckoo and six Malabar Starlings. This is the white-headed form of Chestnut -tailed Starling that Loven informed us is now split. Back at the camp a Forest Wagtail was found by one lucky observer along with Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike. Again the temple field yielded very little but we did see two Jerdon’s Nightjar.
Thursday: Our last day at camp. Early morning walk in the forest gave us Greater Flameback and eventually everyone saw Malabar Trogon (female). Then thanks to Loven’s stealth, fieldcraft and excellent eyesight we finally caught up with Brown Fish Owl. After breakfast another raptor watch getting off to a great start by immediately having a Crested Goshawk as it displayed over the forest. This was followed by Black Eagle, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, several Booted Eagles, Shikra, two ringtail harriers and Alpine Swift.
Back at camp Malabar Woodshrike and Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker were found on the forest edge and the Forest Wagtail was re-located near the farm house giving everyone the opportunity to catch up with this elusive bird. We said “goodbye” to the camp and headed back to the coast stopping at Carambolim Lake where we had two Jungle Owlets and two Brown Hawk Owls in their usual roost. We also caught up with Pied Kingfisher and Clamerous Reed Warbler, birds which we usually had seen long before now.
Friday: A lazy morning boating up the Zuari River. Two Hump-backed Dolphins were soon attracted to the boat as terns and gulls flew past. Greater Crested Terns gave close up views as they perched on poles in the middle of the river and a 3 metre long Marsh Mugger Crocodile sunned itself on a bank feet from the boat. Along a side channel we found our main quarry – two immaculate Collared Kingfishers, thus rounding off a most pleasant cruise. On the way back to the hotel a brief stop at Goa Velim Lake should have added a number of duck to the list but with heavy vegetation viewing was difficult. During the afternoon at the hotel a female Amur Falcon spent time on the wires and 12+ adult and three young Painted Snipe were seen from the balcony. One couple made a return trip to Morjim and had Small Pratincoles and nine Yellow-wattled Lapwings
Saturday: Our last full day, some people shopped, some birded Baga Hill whilst others birded/sunbathed around the pool. A final, but again sadly failed attempt for Indian Pitta was made. Raptors were the order of the day with 14 species being seen (most being photographed) from the pool area and Black-shouldered Kite added from Baga.
The list included Indian Spotted, Tawny and Steppe Eagles, Pallid and Marsh Harriers, Changeable and Mountain Hawk Eagles, Common Buzzard and an immaculate male Amur Falcon. A final addition to the list were six Loten Sunbirds at Baga.
Sunday: An early start to cross the Zuari River before the authorities closed the bridge for repairs meant we were at the airport in good time for our flight home. After a delay we arrived back in Gatwick early evening.
Another very successful trip with 272 species seen and eight others heard. Mammals included Malabar Red Squirrel, Black-faced Langur, Bonnetted Macaque, Sambar Deer and Indian Grey Mongoose.
