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WildWings, 577 Fishponds Road, Fishponds, Bristol. BS16 3AF.UK
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Dave Fell met the twelve participants at Gatwick Airport for the November 2006 Goa Bird Festival. Our flight was on time and after an uneventful journey arrived around breakfast time on Sunday morning.
While waiting to board the coach, that was to take us to the Beira Mar Hotel, an Oriental Honey Buzzard and a White-bellied Sea Eagle flew over. A pale phase Booted Eagle was also seen on the journey to the hotel. The rest of the day was spent around the pool/bar area before a short walk around Baga Fields, still very waterlogged from the monsoon, and an evening 'Crake watch'.
White-throated Kingfisher, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Plum-headed Parakeet, drongos, mynas and Green Bee-eaters were all easy to see but some time was needed before everyone had good views of Baillon’s Crake and Ruddy-breasted Rail. A local walking through the fields obligingly flushed a Pintail Snipe and a Cinnamon Bittern. The latter, twice.
After a refreshing shower we sat down to our first Goan meal and another Kingfisher, this one being an alcoholic one!
Monday started off very wet but cleared up to be a lovely sunny, but humid, day. We were at Candolim and a walk along the road to the bridge gave us Greenish and Blyth's
Reed Warblers and Ashy Prinia. Whilst at the bridge we found Indian Swiftlets and House Swifts as several flocks of Gull-billed Terns flew up river. We walked along the riverbank and through fields and woodland, clocking up new birds along the way - the best being Golden Oriole, Black-lored Tit and Indian Grey Hornbill - a rarity here. A large flock of Fruit Bats or Flying Fox were seen here too.
After lunch a short taxi ride took us to Arpora. Although we did not find the hoped-for pitta, we saw Puff-throated, Tawny-bellied and Jungle Babblers, White-browed Fantail, Black-headed Cuckoo Shrike and a flock of Small Minivets. The bird of the day would probably have been the Red Spurfowl, but only three of the group saw it.
Tuesday began rather overcast, but later cleared to a fine sunny day. The overcast conditions suited our trip to Morjim Beach, which can be oppressively hot. A large flock of gulls contained mainly Brown-headed Gulls. but after careful searching Slender-billed, Black-headed and Herglin’s Gulls were found, along with a good number of Lesser- crested, Little, Caspian, Gull-billed and Sandwich Terns.
In a nearby wader flock were about 50 Small Praticoles, a few Greater Sandplovers and numerous Lesser Sand Plovers and Kentish Plovers.
After a short break for drinks in the beach café, a walk around the surrounding area found Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Pied Bushchat and Long-tailed Shrike, but little else due to building work.
In the afternoon we visited Fort Aguada. Here we had a family party of Grey-breasted Prinia, and in a fruiting fig tree, and a very photogenic Coppersmith Barbet. A noisy flock of Jungle Babblers were in nearby scrub. Although no other birds were seen, the views of these were stunning.
After a short walk down the hill we ended up at the well-known pitta site. Again we could not locate a pitta, but we had another Indian Grey Hornbill, a juvenile, and brief views of Orange-headed Thrush.
Wednesday was fine and sunny and it was our first organised trip by the Backwoods guides and they took us to Dona Paulo. Although construction work was taking place, we still had great views of Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark, Malabar Lark, Oriental Skylark, with their buzzing calls, Indian Robin and a pair of Spotted Owlets, much to the photographers delight.
We next visited the rice paddies at Santa Cruz, which were disappointing. Due to the later monsoon, work on the fields had been delayed, so there was no mud for waders. A handful of Pacific Golden Plover and a Watercock were the best sightings. A couple of Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, along with Purple Swamphens and an assortment of egrets. Diligent searching found Catton Pygmy Goose and a female Shoveller.
We then moved to a tidal inlet where two White-bellied Sea Eagles were on show. On the mud were an assortment of waders, the best being Ringed Plover, Pacific Golden and Grey Plover, Ruff, Curlews Sandpiper and Little Stint. A very sick looking Whiskered Tern was also here.
On our walk back to the bus we saw Black-rumped Flameback, Rosy Starling, Open-billed Stork and Blue-tailed Bee-eater. The hoped for Brown Hawk Owl was not at home. A Spotted Eagle species was seen as it roosted in the fading light, but could not be positively identified.
Thursday was again hot and sunny, and a short taxi ride took us again to Arpora where we searched in vain for Indian Pitta. The raucous calls of parakeets led us to a dead palm tree and to six Alexandrine Parakeets at their nest holes. Other birds here were Loten’s Sunbird, Asian Paradise Flycatcher and Ashy Drongo. A walk up the heavily wooded hillside was very quiet, so we had an impromptu raptor watch brought about when a magnificent Black Eagle circled overhead. This was followed by a pair of Changeable Hawk Eagles, which perched in a nearby tree, a Crested Serpent Eagle and an Oriental Honey Buzzard.
We then arranged for taxis to drop us off at Lila's, a German café bar, for brunch before we walked back to the hotel via the football field, which now has a road through it! We found several pipits but they all 'chip, chip, chipped' their way into Paddyfield Pipits. A flock of Palm Swifts were seen at their usual nest tree.
In the late afternoon several diehards set out for the "Yomp in the Swamp" (thanks Richard). There we donned sandals and shorts, plenty of insect repellent, and walked around the ponds in Baga fields, having had news of Black Bittern there. We flushed three Cinnamon Bittern, six Little Heron, Ruddy-breasted Crake and a Slaty-legged Crake, but no Black Bittern. A flock of Chestnut-tailed Starlings and nine Small Pratincoles were also seen.
Friday saw the hot and sunny weather continue. Today we visited Chorao Island, our only all day trip. We caught the first ferry over with stunning views of the sunrise. From the ferry we saw several species of egrets and kingfishers. A Whimbrel flew by, whilst overhead an Osprey mobbed a White-bellied Eagle. This was then joined by a second sea eagle and they perched on poles offering great photographic opportunities.
At the island on our first walk we saw good numbers of Golden Orioles and a large flock of Baya Weaver. Blyth's Reed and Greenish Warblers and a White-throated Fantail were in the mangroves, and a pair of Pallid Harrier quartered the fields.
At our next stop we failed to find a Jungle Owlet that was calling, but we did find a Tickell's Blue Flycatcher and a Lesser Spotted Eagle.
We then moved on to the Mayem Lake, where we could not find any Brown Fish Owls as they had apparently moved to a new roost over the other side of the lake where there is no access. We did however find Ashy, Bronzed and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Crested Tree Swift, Ashy Wood Swallow, Black-naped Monarch, Large-billed Leaf Warbler and Rufous and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers.
After an extended lunch we did a raptor watch. Here the photographic opportunities were endless with Rose-ringed Parakeets at a nest hole and Malabar Lark, Stonechat and Indian Roller on the wires. Six Woolley-necked Storks, Black-winged Stilts and an array of waders were on a nearby pool. In the fields a pair of Pallid Harrier chased a flock of Short-toed Larks, and a juvenile Great Spotted Eagle was harassed by a Marsh Harrier.
Before we caught the ferry back, a watch over the estuary gave us several Terek Sandpipers, Western Reef Heron, Gull-billed Terns, Marsh Sandpiper and Curlew. From the ferry Pramod, our guide, found a Lesser Adjutant Stork in the mangroves.
A long, hot day came to an end with a Barn Owl that flew past the hotel as we ate dinner,
bringing our total for the day to 111.
Saturday, again hot and sunny, and an early start for the short trip to Saligao to try for Brown Wood Owl, but we were unsuccessful. It seems all the large owls are deserting their regular roosts - too much disturbance from birders or from locals?
Although no owls, birding the track was excellent with white phase Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Pompadour Green Pigeon, Blue-winged Leafbird, Kestrel, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Crimson-backed Sunbird, Little Spiderhunter and yet another White-bellied Sea Eagle.
The afternoon was free, allowing people to recover from the all day Chorao trip. Some took a taxi to bird Baga Hill where construction is still ongoing, whilst others birded from the hotel, or rested. A Tawny Eagle was a good sighting from the hotel and Ruddy-breasted Crake and Black-crowned Night Heron were seen during the evening 'Crake watch'.
Sunday was again hot and sunny, with an early start to the Backwoods Camp, stopping en route for Malabar Pied Hornbill - a brilliant spot by Pramod, or just local knowledge?
Here we also saw Brown Shrike, Brown-headed Barbet and our first Large-billed Crow. On reaching the camp we walked the kilometre entrance track, finding on the way Chestnut-shouldered Petronia, Western Crowned Leaf Warbler, Heart-spotted (stopping!) Woodpecker, Common Woodshrike, Red-throated (Taiga) Flycatcher and White-rumped Shama. Once in the camp, some were welcomed by a Jungle Owlet.
After breakfast we were allocated our tents and we had our first walk into the surrounding forest. We were soon enjoying excellent views of a male Malabar Trogon. This was followed by Asian Fairy Bluebird, Scarlet Minivet, Large Woodshrike, Verditer and White-bellied Blue Flycatchers, Black-crested and Yellow-browed Bulbuls, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and Dark-fronted Babblers.
The early start took its toll, when after a hearty lunch, several members of the group took a siesta, whilst some took a dip in the river. Here, in a fruiting fig tree, were Malabar Pied and Malabar Grey Hornbills and Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters.
In the afternoon we took a walk into a clearing near the Tambdi Surla Temple and saw Crimson-faced Barbet, Tree Pipit, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Malabar Parakeet, Vernal Hanging Parrot and a Black-headed Bunting. Over the distant hills were several Brown-backed Needletails and a male Amur Falcon, and we heard a Jerdon's Nightjar.
That evening after the log, a bottle of the local brew, Cashew Fenni, was drunk along with whiskey, as the group celebrated a great first day at Backwoods Camp.
Monday was again hot and sunny, but somewhat cooler than at the coast. The group was up early, some bright, some not so bright, for the walk to scrubland behind the Barabhumi school. An excellent spot, here we saw Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker and Indian Cuckoo along with minivets, drongos, flycatchers, warblers and bulbuls.
Next, after breakfast, we searched for owls trying a couple of spots for Brown Fish Owl and a nest site for Spot-bellied Eagle Owl, but failed to see either. The rest of the morning was very quiet seeing only Jungle Owlet and Common Hawk Cuckoo.
After lunch we took a long trek from the temple area through the forest stopping at various vantage points to view the river in an attempt to see the two species of kingfisher that occur in this type of habitat, Oriental Dwarf and Blue-eared Kingfishers. We saw neither on the outward journey.
At the end of the trail we turned back and soon saw Brown-breasted Flycatcher, a very good find. We then had possibly the bird of the trip, a magnificent male Indian Blue Robin with two female/immatures - three birds in all. A tick for all the group. As most set off back in fading light, two lucky people finally managed to see Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher.
As we neared the temple we heard, saw, photographed even, two Jerdon Nightjars as they displayed and perched on a wooden structure.
Tuesday was hot but windy, and before breakfast we had another walk in the forest, again in search of owls. It was unusually quiet with only a handful of birds seen - Asian Fairy Bluebird, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Black-headed Oriole, Yellow-browed Bulbul, trogons and a Hume’s Warbler. We were then fortunate to see, briefly but well, a Brown Fish Owl.
After breakfast a short bus journey took us to a raptor watch point and here good views
were had of three Mountain Hawk Eagles and several Booted Eagles, along with Black-throated Munia and an assortment of swifts.
A circular walk around the perimeter of the camp was taken in the late afternoon, resulting in several new birds being added to our list - Olive-backed Pipit, Spangled Drongo, Crested Goshawk and a superb Red-breasted Flycatcher. We also saw Besra and Shikra perched, Little Spiderhunter, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Rosy Starling, White-rumped Shama and Malabar Parakeet.
Wednesday was again the usual hot and sunny weather we were now becoming acclimatised to. An early start, and off to Bondla - we took a leisurely stroll down the hill seeing almost immediately a Black Eagle soaring in the company of a white phase Booted Eagle. Several other Booted Eagles were seen later in the walk. Two Besra, perched in a tree, gave good photographic views as well as a Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike. Other birds seen included Asian Fairy Bluebird, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Greater Flameback, Tickell's and Asian Paradise (white phase) Flycatchers, Black-naped Monarch and, best find of the day, a Speckled Piculet (thanks Richard!) feeding high up in the canopy.
After a short break for a drink, we walked around the zoo looking, unsuccessfully, for Forest Wagtail. A few bulbuls and a party of squabbling Jungle Babblers were the best seen here. Acting on information received, we returned to the hill and walked down to the reservoir trying to locate a White-bellied Woodpecker, but we could only hear it calling. A Grey Junglefowl was seen by a lucky few.
Back at the camp we took a drive to a bridge over a river and took a short walk into nearby scrub. Here we caught up with Grey-headed Bulbul and Blue-faced Malkoha.
Both these birds are skulkers, but the malkoha posed to have its photo taken. A couple of Forest Wagtails were seen flying over before we set off to a spot for nightjars.
In the half-light some had a brief view of a Grey Nightjar. As we returned to the camp, a Jungle Cat was seen as it dashed through the headlights. A stop to scan and spotlight a field gave us better views of the Grey Nightjar.
Thursday again brought heat and sun. The early morning walk recorded the now usual birds - drongos, bulbuls and flycatchers, but our efforts to see owls finally paid dividends when a splendid Spot-bellied Eagle Owl was found in its daytime roost. Most of the group managed good views before it flew off showing its immense wingspan.
We were then drawn to the 'pile-driving' sound of a White-bellied Woodpecker drumming. As we closed in on our quarry, we could hear it calling but could not locate it until it flew, giving some tickable views.
After breakfast we returned to the temple area and again trekked upriver looking for kingfishers. This time we were rewarded with good views of a Blue-eared Kingfisher and a delightful Black-capped Kingfisher.
After lunch we said our goodbyes to Backwoods and set off back to the coast, and the Beira Mar. On the way we stopped at Old Goa and visited the Basilica of Bom Jesus, where the remains of St. Francis Xavier are on show in a glass casket. We also looked around the Church of St. Francis Assissi, yet another 16th century building.
Friday was hot and humid. After a later start, we went by bus to Dona Paulo and took the boat trip up the Zuari River. A relaxing morning after the 'rigours' of Backwoods Camp.
We were soon surrounded by eight river dolphins that were obviously feeding, as fish were jumping out of the water all around us. Garfish were skimming on their long tubular bodies over the water before standing upright and 'running' on their tails to make their escape from the marauding dolphins.
On poles, set up in the river by local fishermen, Lesser and Greater Crested Terns were perched side by side. An Osprey also landed nearby to consume the fish it had just caught. We entered a creek and almost immediately found a Collared Kingfisher, our eighth species of kingfisher for the trip. Some saw a Marsh Mugger Crocodile.
As we returned upriver, six Lesser Adjutant Storks, two Woolley-necked Storks and a Lesser Spotted Eagle (small by comparison) rode the thermals above us.
Before returning to the hotel, we took a look at Goa Velha Lake. A distant, but large, flock of ducks was present and Wigeon, Garganey and Pintail, were added to the list.
In the afternoon six guys returned to Morjim Beach and found Caspian and Pallas's Gulls before seeing eleven Yellow-wattled Lapwings on the way back. Back at the hotel, four
Painted Snipe (three male and one female) were seen.
That evening we all went to the Silver Sands beach bar for a seafood barbeque and a night of merriment.
Saturday was again hot and humid, and our last day. A day of rest - for some swimming and diving, others shopping and resting. The rest just carried on birding! Most did go for one last time to Lila's for brunch before thrashing Baga fields for pipits - and at last, a positive ID, and Richard's Pipit was added to our list.
Sunday, and an early start to the airport due to a detour as we were not allowed over the Zuari Bridge. Little did we know, this was to be the first of our problems today. Our flight was delayed two hours, and then we found we had an emergency plane which did not have the fuel capacity to take us all the way to Gatwick. Stops at Bahrain and Milan delayed us further, but we did arrive home safe and sound.
A brilliant trip, with a list of 266 birds seen. Malabar Red Squirrel, Grey Mongoose and Bonnetted Macaque were also seen, but not mentioned in the text. Thanks to a wonderful group of people!
