by Tour Leader Dave Fell

Day 1 - Eight participants plus David Fell met up at Gatwick Airport, taking off one and a half hours late at 00.30 hours bound for Goa, India via Bahrain.  After an uneventful flight we arrived in Goa and transferred to our hotel, the Beira Mar in Baga.  After a shower and unpacking we met in the bar and after a few Kingfisher beers and a Goan meal retired to bed tired but looking forward to the next day’s birding.

Day 2 - After breakfast the next morning the group relaxed around the pool area and began to get to grips with the commoner birds that flew around Baga fields or perched invitingly on the electricity wires close by.  Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Black-capped and White-throated Kingfishers, Brahminy and Black Kites, Indian Pond Heron, Long-tailed Shrike, House Crow and Pied Bushchat.

Overhead in one binocular view we had three Booted Eagles, Oriental Honey Buzzard and both species of kite.  A female Greater-painted Snipe that skulked through the grass was bird of the morning.

The afternoon saw us at Baga Hill.  To our disappointment a roadway, for housing development, was being constructed but we birded on regardless with the enthusiasm that comes with foreign birding.  A side track provided us with some shelter from the burning sun and excellent views of Black-rumped Flameback, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Coppersmith Barbet, Small Minivet, Black-headed Cuckoo Shrike and Golden-fronted Leafbird.

Back at the hotel a short watch before dusk found Clamerous and Blyth’s Reed Warblers, Lesser Whistling Duck and Spotted Owlet.  An excellent start to the tour.

Day 3 – Early the next morning found us at Marjim Beach.  Amongst the throng of Brown-headed Gulls were Caspian, Hauglin’s and Slender-billed Gulls but unfortunately no Great Black-headed (Pallas’s) Gulls.  Lesser and Greater Crested Terns were present and four Small Pratincoles flew by. The high tide wader roost hold Kentish and Lesser Sand Plovers with a handful of Greater Sand Plover, providing another superb photo opportunity for the avid photographers in the group.

In the afternoon we were at Aguada Fort overlooking Panjim and the Mandovi River.  Grey-breasted Prinia, Common Tailorbird and Thick-billed Flowerpecker were all seen at close range feeding newly fledged young whilst ‘bird of the day’ was a magnificent White-bellied Sea Eagle, with fish that sailed majestically below us.  This was followed by a superb white morph Asian Paradise Flycatcher.

The evening watch from the pool found Watercock and Pintail Snipe along with the Greater-painted Snipe.

Day 4 – Wednesday morning found the entire group assembled at 5.30 a.m ready to depart for a four night stay at the Backwoods Camp, a tented camp on the edge of the Western Ghats.  As we neared the camp at about 7.00 a.m a shout from the front of the bus awoke those slumbering at the back as four male Grey Junglefowl were seen feeding in the grass.  We walked along the dirt track approach road to the camp finding Crimson-fronted Barbets, Chestnut-shouldered Petronia’s and Red-throated (Taiga) Flycatcher whilst Malabar Parakeets whizzed by overhead.

After settling into camp we sat down for the first of our hearty meals deep in the forest and far away from the hustle and bustle of Baga and Calangute.  We finished breakfast and were then off on our first guided forest walk with Pramod, our Backwoods guide for the duration of our stay, a superb birdspotter.  Two endemics were soon under our belt as Malabar Grey Hornbill and Malabar Trogon were seen.  Vernal Hanging Parrot, White-rumped Needletail and Crested Treeswift added to the total.

After lunch some relaxed in the camp, others by the river whilst the more enthusiastic birded around the camp.  Tea, coffee and biscuits at 3.30 p.m. preceded our visit to the area around Tamdi Surla Temple.  Watching from the open area around the temple produced Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Mountain Hawk Eagle and a juvenile Rufous-bellied Eagle.  A short walk to another open area gave us Crested Goshawk.

Day 5 – Next morning found most people looking, unsuccessfully for Indian Pitta but good views were had of Orange-headed Thrush.  As we were leaving the camp by bus the first bird we saw was Giant Hornbill which landed in a tree offering scope views and excellent flight views.  After this we had Malabar Pied Hornbill, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Ashy Wood-swallow, Dark-fronted Babbler and to add a touch of familiarity, Tree Pipit and Yellow Wagtail.

As we returned to the camp the bus driver spotted a Drongo Cuckoo, a rarity for Goa (and a tick for me!) which gave excellent views.

Day 6 - After breakfast we did a raptor watch and were soon rewarded with Indian Swiftlet and Brown-backed Needletail amongst a swarm of hirundines.  A Black Eagle gave amazing views as it floated overhead.  Shikra, Oriental Honey Buzzard and Booted Eagle followed.  Several Black-throated Munias perched invitingly for a photo session.

A quieter than usual later afternoon forest walk was rewarded with views of two roosting Sri Lanka Frogmouth.  After the evening meal, a short drive took us to an open area where we saw, with the aid of a spotlight, several Grey Nightjar and Jerdon’s Nightjar, along with Oriental Scops Owl heard calling back at the camp.

Day 7 – Next day we concentrated on woodpeckers as so far we had only seen the two Flameback species.  Throughout the day we saw Rufous, Heart-spotted and Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers.  A supporting cast was made up of Jungle Owlet, White-rumped Shama, another Great Hornbill, Malabar Trogon, Black-hooded Oriole, Scarlet Minivet, several drongo species and Malabar Whistling Thrush, to name but a few.

Day 8 - Today we drove to Bondla.  Here we walked along the tarmac approach road through the forest before having a packed breakfast of omelette sandwiches (very tasty) beside a babbling brook and then travelling on to the zoo.  New birds recorded were a stunning Blue-capped Rock Thrush, an obliging Besra, Red-breasted Flycatcher and Black Redstart.  On our return to the camp we saw an Indian Roller.

That evening we drove to a nearby bridge for a short walk.  A Crested Serpent Eagle gave brief views for some but two Malabar Pied Hornbills perched in a dead tree unperturbed by the constant clicking of camera shutters.

Day 9– Our last morning at the camp and still no pitta, but the resident Puff-throated Babblers and Emerald Dove were seen.  A short forest walk before breakfast yielded nothing new, so after breakfast we drove to the Temple.  We walked up the boulder stream in the hope of seeing forest kingfishers but were unsuccessful. 

We said ‘Goodbye’ to the camp and headed off back to the coast.  On our return to the hotel birding continued from the poolside and balcony.  Perched on wires were Rosy, Brahminy and Chestnut-tailed Starlings along with Scaly-breasted Munia.

Day 10– Today was a free day.  Some of the group took a taxi ride to Arpora and Indian Pitta was seen (Hip Hip Hooray!).  In the hotel grounds a stunning male Crimson Sunbird was found along with a Pale-billed Flowerpecker.  Amongst the usual array of birds on the wires were a few Black-headed Munia, and the evening crake watch produced Ruddy Breasted Crake.

Day 11– Next morning saw the group at Arpora and the Indian Pitta was eventually seen by all.  In addition to this were babblers and bulbuls, White-browed Fantail and Indian Robin.  Fantastic views were had of a Crested Serpent Eagle as it circled low overhead.

The afternoon was spent at Saligeo where the hoped for Brown Wood Owl could not be located.  Tree felling was going on and this could have moved them on, as they had been seen the previous day.  All was not lost as while the group rested by a spring a very confiding Slaty-breasted Rail put in a timely appearance. 

Back at the hotel Baya Weaver, Black-headed Ibis and Amur Falcon were seen and Bluethroat and Cinnamon Bittern were recorded from the crake watch.

Day 12– Today some (or one) of the group visited the local Anjuna market whilst the rest went to Dona Paulo, an area of grass-covered volcanic rock.  A surprise find was a Desert Wheatear.  More expected birds were Richard’s and Paddyfield Pipits and a small flock of Short-toed Larks.

We then moved on to Santa Cruz, an area of paddyfields.  Only a small portion of the paddy was being worked so the expected wader numbers were down.  Little and Temminck Stints in winter plumage caused one or two ID problems at first.  We saw both Lesser and Greater Spotted Eagles and a few hundred egrets following a plough, which was a spectacle.

The afternoon was spent at Carambolim Lake where Purple Swamphens, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas and Cotton Pygmy Goose were recorded.  A group of thirteen Whiskered Terns also

made a brief visit.  We moved to an area of fields for Asian Open-billed Storks and found several Red-headed Buntings.  A superb juvenile Pied Cuckoo performed yards from the cameras.

Day 13– A full day out today to Charao Island and Mayem Lake.  Soon after arriving on the 6.30 a.m

ferry we had the first of three Pallid Harriers but the Thick-Knee, present the day before, had departed.  Seven Lesser Adjutant Storks rode the thermals, whilst two Egyptian Vultures were found.  Paddyfield Warbler and Slaty-breasted Rail were also seen in the reeds.  A flock of skulking Tawny-bellied  Babblers were seen by a few before we took a long lunch break in the local restaurant overlooking the lake.  The afternoon saw us raptor watching.  Several eagles were perched as we arrived.  Two juvenile Great Spotted were on the ground and two or three Lesser Spotted were in nearby palm trees.  A Steppe Eagle, probably the bird of the day, circled overhead much to the joy of the photographers.  With so much eagle activity flocks of birds were constantly on the move, the best being around 400 Glossy Ibis.

Day 14– Friday, the last day of birding for some of the group, was a morning lazily boating up the Zuari River, admiring Great and Lesser Crested Terns along side each other.  Osprey and White-bellied Sea Eagle were perched, the latter again pleasing the photographers.  Three Collared Kingfishers were found rounding off a super boat trip.  On the way back to the hotel a brief stop at Batim Lake added a number of duck to the list.

Day 15– Today was a free day, but some of the group hired a taxi and were successful with Brown Wood Owl, Brown Hawk Owl and Yellow-wattled Lapwing.  The rest of the group went shopping,

to the beach or just relaxed by the pool area. 

Day 16 – Our last day and some tried for Brown Fish Owl but were unsuccessful although Alpine Swift was added to the list.

We left the hotel after lunch to catch our evening flight back to Gatwick, arriving 2.00 a.m. to a temperature shock of –2C!  Another successful trip with 255 species recorded with the best of the mammals being Malabar Red Squirrel, Wild Boar, Chetal, Black-faced Langur, Bonnetted Macaque and Indian Grey Mongoose.