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WildWings, 577 Fishponds Road, Fishponds, Bristol. BS16 3AF.UK
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Another highly successful tour, with 257 species recorded including Indian Nightjar (a new species for the WildWings) and River Tern (just the second record during a WildWings tour). A superb group of ten was spearheaded by the Brighton RSPB contingent of Rita and Ernie Parker, Ann and Pete Watson and Sally Bottomley, along with Pat and Peter Harnett from Kent, and fully complimented by the 'northern contingent' of Dave Murden (Derbyshire I think!) and Ray Shewan (Inverness, affectionately known as “Abergail”), plus myself as WildWings tour leader.
An uneventful and timely overnight flight with Monarch from Gatwick found us on the tarmac at Dabolim Airport, Goa, only to sit there for one and a half hours due to a lack of free stands! Never mind, soon through the hustle and bustle of Customs and Immigrations we headed towards the famous tourist 'Strip', arriving at the Beira Mar Hotel, Baga at 1.30 in the afternoon heat. Soon we were experiencing our first Indian birds from the hotel grounds overlooking the Baga Fields – White-throated Kingfisher, stunning Green and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Black and Brahminy Kites, Rose-coloured Starlings, Indian Pond Herons, House Crows and Black Drongos. A forage into the fields gave us a Brown Shrike along with the commoner Long-tailed Shrikes, Pied Bushchat, Indian Roller, Black-capped Kingfisher, Red-wattled Lapwing and an introduction to the finer ID points appertaining to Richards, Blyth's and Paddyfield Pipits, all of which were recorded along with Tree Pipit for good measure. Relaxing at the Bar with a Kingfisher beer, or the similar but preferable Kings, over our first Goanese meal with Greater Painted-snipe already in the bag, proved a fitting end to our first day in Goa. Early start tomorrow.
Having used the local taxi network, pre-dawn found us all standing on the Nerul Bridge over one of the Mandovi River tributaries – a magical moment as the sun rose as a fiery red ball and the first Black Kites and House Crows took flight. Hundreds of Indian Swiflets were seen to be emerging from under the bridge in the half light, reminiscent of small bats fluttering into the emerging dawn. The delights of our egg and cheese sandwiches were followed by a stroll along the riverbank and through a small copse to some shrimp pools, recording Spotted Owlet, River Tern, which appeared to fly straight through, Large-billed Crow, Coppersmith Barbet, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Plum-headed Parakeet, Little Cormorant and Indian Golden Oriole. With the heat building (breaking through the 9.30 barrier was most noticeable) a return to base late morning was fully appreciated with an excellent egg biryani available for lunch. Late afternoon found the group at Aguada Fort overlooking Panjim and the Arabian Sea, with a superb White-bellied Sea Eagle gliding by directly below us. Careful searching of the bushes revealed some stunning Small Minivets (Dave went into ornithological raptures), White-throated Fantails and a single Malabar Parakeet, way out of its Western Ghats territory and raising the possibility of an escaped individual? More Kings beers and a chicken Xacuti completed an excellent day.
Again a pre-dawn excursion, this time to Morji Beach on the north side of the Chapora River, which is now reached by the new bridge. With the tide fully up, our luck was definitely in – thousands of gulls sitting on the sand bar a few yards offshore, and with the majority being the attractive Brown-headed Gulls, the group were soon picking out the accompanying Black-headed and Slender-billed Gulls, with the 'big boys' represented by plenty of Caspian Gulls, several Heuglin's and the stunning Pallas’s Gulls (I still prefer Great Black-headed), many in full summer plumage. Searching through the high tide wader roost of Lesser Sand Plovers revealed a couple of Greaters along with many Kentish Plovers. Near to the bridge a flock of Terek Sandpipers was found, whilst stopping en route back to the hotel produced a pair of splendid Yellow-wattled Lapwings by the roadside along with two Small Pratincoles and a perched Streak-throated Swallow on the wires outside the Mourina Dourada Hotel. It was warming up again, so we returned late morning for some ornithological R 'n R by the pool. Late afternoon we visited the delightful village of Saligao but failed to see the resident Brown Wood Owls, our disappointment soon dispelled with the sighting of a Lesser Spotted Eagle soaring over the hillside.
And so off to the famous Backwoods Camp for a four night stay at the fully en-suited tents, set in the forest nestling below the Western Ghats, just a short ten-minute drive from the beautiful Tamdi Surla Temple. A comfortable two-hour drive of only 80 kilometres, but along slow roads, soon found us outside the Camp at 07.30. We were met by my colleague and friend Loven, one of the three Backwoods partners, who would be our local guide for the next few days. An introductory walk along the track to the Camp entrance gave a hint of what was to come – a super Great Hornbill perched for all to see, then a Red-throated Flycatcher, a flock of Malabar Parakeets, Black-hooded Oriole, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Bronzed Drongo - and all before breakfast! And it had turned out nice again weather-wise too.
To see the Camp is to believe it. Cosy tents set in the forest, fantastic meals at breakfast, lunch and dinner, a full bar, surrounded by birds – what more could a birder ask for! The ambience is truly magical and to be savoured for as long as possible. No need to list all the birds – just come next year and experience it for yourself. Indian Pitta feeding at dawn by the resident Mahout’s tent, Orange-headed Thrush and Puff-throated Bubbler beside the tents, Sri Lanka Frogmouths roosting in the bamboo alongside the Camp, Heart-spotted (stopping!) Woodpecker, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher during the beautiful forest walks, Blue-eared and Oriental Dwarf Kingfishers, along with Indian Blue Robin and White-bellied Woodpeckers whilst walking up the local stream, and super views of Mountain Hawk Eagle and Black Eagle during raptor watching. Not forgetting the Grey Nightjar in full view on the ground at dusk and the Little Spiderhunter along with the full suite of bulbuls, Black-rumped and Greater Flamebacks, Crimson-backed and Loten’s Sunbirds along the scrubby areas adjoining the forest. And then the Malabar Grey and Malabar Pied Hornbills - the list goes on! Common Langur, Bonnet-faced Macaque and Indian Giant Squirrel headed the mammals' list with Western Ghats Flying Lizard thrown in for good measure. Many of the bird sightings were due solely to Loven’s superb field skills, his tracking down of the Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher earning him God-like status and the signing of many an autograph. What made the whole Camp experience particularly memorable was the celebrating of Rita’s birthday, complete with birthday cake and candles, followed by Rita and Ernie’s Ruby wedding anniversary, with champagne and plenty of merriment to say the least. We were all very pleased and privileged to share the experience with a lovely couple.
Leaving the Camp was hard, but leave we must - bound back to the 'Strip', but firstly visiting Bondla Reserve, a mere 45 minute drive due west. Soon after dawn found us birding the track below the Park entrance, with a magnificent perched Changeable Hawk Eagle stealing the show, before we entered the Park proper and slowly walked down the main road. With Ernie now minus ‘scope, he entered his stride and found, in succession, three Malabar Trogons, two White-rumped Shamas and a handsome Blue-capped Rock Thrush. “I’m going for third place in the God stakes” he exclaimed to his birding peers! What a morning, with virtually all the Camp specialities now sown up and on the list. A welcome stop for lunch at the Sahakari Spice Farm also produced the handsome Black-lored Tit, before safely arriving back at the Beira Mar Hotel in the mid afternoon – to the hustle and bustle after the tranquillity of the Camp. A change of dinner venue and a pleasant meal at the Silver Sands Beach Shack with a selection of Bar-B-Q fish on offer, the evening’s ambience somewhat interrupted by the Wigan-Everton match on the ultra-big screen. Wigan lost!
With a free day to all do our own thing including exploring the Baga Hills and Club Cabana areas, the following morning found us at Dona Paula – in thick fog, and a brand new experience for me. An executive decision soon found us driving down to the Santa Cruz Marshes and with the fog slowly lifting, both Pied Kingfisher and Clamorous Reed Warbler were added to the ever-growing list, whilst returning to Dona Paula produced a superb flock of Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks. A change of habitat in the afternoon with a visit to the attractive Carambolim Lake where hundreds of Lesser Whistling Ducks were to be found along with the attractive Cotton Pygmy Geese, both Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and Purple Swamphens. Nearby two Brown Hawk Owls were seen in the local village, the day finishing overlooking the Syngenta Factory, previously Ceiba-Geigy, and seeing 25+ Openbill Storks flight into roost along with several Darters.
The following morning we caught the 06.30 ferry in darkness to Charao Island and drove directly to Mayem Lake – our ornithological quarry being Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Rufous Woodpecker and White-bellied Drongo – all of which were seen along the lakeside path but from within the welcome shade of the forest. Spicing was added in the form of Verditer Flycatcher, Changeable Hawk Eagle at the nest and both perched Indian and Grey Nightjars, affording superb comparisons within yards of each other - Loven does it again! Doubling back to Charao Island we watched a flock of 60+ Small Pratincoles hawking over the fields before returning to base and enjoying an excellent meal at the Indian Kitchen, Calangute, very quiet and far away from the 'madding crowd'.
Next morning with a complete change of venue we slowly cruised up the Zuari River in our private, fully covered boat, no funnels and outside toilet! By the stunning bridge over the river we watched at close range plenty of Swift Terns and another White-bellied Sea Eagle, all perched on fishing posts. But we had greater quarry - slowly cruising along the quiet backwaters soon revealed first a single and then a pair of the exquisite Collared Kingfishers, their brilliant turquoise-green colouring flashing through the mangroves. And so the suite of eight species of Kingfishers was complete. Having briefly re-visited Dona Paula and seen at least six Oriental Skylarks, with their unforgettable calls resembling the delicate passing of wind, a short visit was made to Batim Lake, where thousands of Lesser Whistling Ducks were to be found along with a splattering of Pintail and Teal. With Loven departing, he was duly thanked for his huge efforts and wished every success with cementing Indo-Soviet relationships with his new partner - rumour has it the wedding is in April, but don’t tell anyone! That evening “Abergail” celebrated Burns night in style, later expounding the virtues of both Charles Dickens and the Daily Telegraph to his ever-dwindling audience. Heavily under the influence of the local Indian wine I ask myself? Never!
In the morning some of the group enjoyed some culture visiting Old Goa, and some shopping at Mapusa market. We all doubled back to Morji Beach in the afternoon via the Siolim rice paddies, which produced a handsome Grey-headed Lapwing and Greater Spotted Eagle, a Bay-backed Shrike, two or three Barred Button Quails and two Brahminy Starlings added to the list behind the beach. Photographing the sunset took precedence over the thousands of gulls flighting to roost offshore. Another new evening venue over the road from the Beira Mar, East meets West, proved very successful, the local Indian dancing complementing the food admirably.
Next morning Naresh, our head taxi man, with his fleet of taxis took us back to Charao Island via the Calvim ferry on our final mission. First stop Tikanem where Paddyfield Warbler popped up from the reeds, onto the banana plantation near Mayem Lake and after some delicate negotiating, the group were able to enter the private plantation and enjoy ‘scope views of a Brown Wood Owl. Back to Pomburpa on Charao Island and a Pallid Harrier obligingly soared overhead, with two Lesser Adjutant Storks also gliding over our departure ferry point back to the mainland. Our mission completed, and the weather had turned out nice again! With free time during the last afternoon to shop, swim, bird and relax, the final evening at the Beira Mar was an enjoyable but quiet affair, savouring the birds added to one’s own personal list.
With taxis to the airport at 6.15, an ever crowded terminal lounge, and a take off just 1.5 hours later, we safely arrived back at Gatwick at 5.30. Another successful WildWings tour to Goa with one of the best groups I have had the privilege to lead over the years. Great company, great fun and great birding. Here’s to the next Goa trip!
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