Colorado 16^th – 28^th April 2005

Trip report by Tour Leader Dick Filby

The 2005 tour was another excellent trip, indeed they seem to get better every year! Great birding, all the target species seen and many more besides, plus some great weather, fantastic scenery and as always, a great group that really enjoyed themselves. Some of the many highlights of the tour can be found herein.

Day 1 - After meeting up at Denver airport late afternoon we headed in search of an Eastern Screech Owl in suburban Denver where we not only enjoyed success with the owl, but also saw many other birds, as well as an intriguing photographic session. Best of the rest included two Hooded Mergansers, a small group of Audubon’s and Myrtle Warblers, and 100 or more Double-crested Cormorants a fantastic spectacle in their nesting tree. Most of us headed for an early dinner, others took the opportunity of a very early night.

Day 2 - After an early breakfast we headed for Springfield, enjoying some excellent roadside birds en-route. A mixed flock of Ross’s and Snow Geese were one of the highlights, as well as our first Ferruginous Hawk, 80 American White Pelicans, 20 American Avocets, and a good selection of other waders including several Semi-palmated and many Least and Baird’s Sandpipers. In addition we saw Franklin’s, Bonaparte’s, Ring-billed, California and American Herring Gulls, at least ten Burrowing Owls, 100’s of Horned Larks and a couple of American Pipits. Mammals included several groups of Pronghorn Antelopes and some large Black-tailed Prairie Dog colonies. Arriving into Springfield early afternoon a pair of Great-tailed Grackles greeted us noisily as we unpacked before heading for a meal followed by some more birding that included a nice Loggerhead Shrike and a couple of excellent Burrowing Owls.

Day 3 - We spent the whole day exploring the area south of town, towards the Oklahoma border. The weather was fine and we found many birds, including important specialities of the area, with two Mountain Plovers and a dozen or more Long-billed Curlews, a Greater Roadrunner, Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Ash-throated Flycatcher, 6+Chihuahuan Ravens and three Canyon Towheees. Raptors included Turkey Vultures, Northern Harrier, seven Swainson’s, three Red-tailed and two Ferruginous Hawks, American Kestrel, Merlin, Prairie Falcon and at least 15 Burrowing Owls. A good day for sparrows too, with at least a dozen Cassin’s Sparrows, six Grasshopper Sparrows and two Rufous-crowned Sparrows as well as Chipping, Clay-coloured, Vesper, Lark, Song and White-crowned Sparrows. Other birds of note included five Wild Turkey’s – one male calling loudly in response to our presence, a covey of Scaled Quail, Rock, Canyon and Bewick’s Wrens, a migrant Hermit Thrush and a single McCowan’s Longspur. The day culminated with an excellent performance by seven male Lesser Prairie Chickens at their lek. They strutted and faced each other intently, never coming to blows, but occasionally jumping in the air. With their pinnae erect, throat pouches inflated and tails cocked they looked amazing, a complete contrast from the remainder of the year when unadorned and secretive, their cryptic plumage helps them blend into the landscape.

Back to Springfield, after a slight delay when we had to assist a driver back her camper van out of our way and through a narrow gateway over a cattle grid.

Day 4 - Most of the group opted to set off pre-dawn to be in position well before first light at the Lesser Prairie Chicken lek again. Some of us stayed in the van to watch from the comfort of our “mobile hide”, whilst others chose to take cameras to the cramped hide, positioned several yards closer to the lek. Horned Larks and Cassin’s Sparrows sang, and we could hear the strange sounds of the lek as males hooted and cackled. As dawn approached the light improved and the views were tremendous, most especially in the scopes. Four Northern Bobwhite Quail were seen as we left the site as well as a further half a dozen Long-billed Curlews.

We took breakfast, returned to the motel, packed up and set off for the mountains, headed on north then west, with our ultimate destination Gunnison. Selected roadside stops meant a good day’s birding, on the edge of the plains, and after lunch, in the mountains and over Monarch Pass. Not long after setting off a group of seven Lark Buntings flew over. Amongst the many other birds en route included;  an Osprey, a Burrowing Owl, several Swainson’s and Red-tailed Hawks, four Golden Eagles, excellent views of three Scaled Quail close to the van at our lunch stop, 50 White-throated Swifts, plus several Cliff and Violet-Green Swallows, several Steller’s and Pinyon Jays and a Clark’s Nutcracker, our first Mountain Bluebirds (we saw all three species again this year), several Townsend Solitaires, and our first Yellow-headed Blackbird of the trip. A flock of Bighorn Sheep were at the roadside and we were able to stop and get some great views and photos.

The change of scenery through the day was dramatic and it was great to finish up amongst the snow-capped mountains on a fine spring evening.

Day 5 - Early morning we headed for the hide from which we were to watch the lek of Gunnison Sage Grouse. We settled in on a frosty morning, comfortable with scopes and hand warmers to the ready. With the increasing light we were treated to the lekking spectacle of at least nine males and one female. The birds stayed on the lek for us until a short while after it was properly light. They flew off, at 6.30 am, and as Gunnison Sage Grouse are particularly nervous lekkers we were pleased that they stayed so late for us. After breakfast we check out of the motel and head west, through the mountains and rolling hills and Mesas towards the Colorado River and the town of Grand Junction where we will stay the night. Roadside stops are productive and we see lots of extra birds today. The star turn was definitely the Blue Grouse that displayed right next to the van in a snowstorm! There were some good pictures of that. Best of the rest included;  Sage Thrashers, Great Northern Diver (sorry – Common Loon), 200 or more Western Grebes and a single Clarke’s Grebe, Cinnamon Teal, Redheads, Ring-necked Ducks and Lesser Scaups, at least three Golden Eagles, a Peregrine Falcon (quite rare in Colorado), some Marbled Godwits, a nesting Great Horned Owl, three Lewis’s Woodpeckers in their favourite cottonwoods, a Red-naped Sapsucker, our first Western Bluebirds as well as several more Mountain Bluebirds, no less than five Virginia’s Warblers, several of which were singing, a single Black-throated Gray Warbler, single Green-tailed and several Spotted Towhees, Brewer’s Blackbird. Of particular note was the scenery at the Black Canyon, where we paused at a couple of the overlooks, thrilling to the spectacular views.

At Grand Junction we were invited to watch some early Black-chinned and Broad-tailed Hummingbirds at a friend’s feeders, where there were also four Cassin’s Finches and several Lesser Goldfinches. Also in the area we saw 20+Gambel’s Quail and an obliging Western Screech before dusk. The end of another long and very successful day – and thus to dinner and bed.

Day 6 - From Grand Junction we headed through the DeBeque Canyon on the Colorado River and up to the Roaring Fork valley, a ‘local patch’ of mine. Visiting various feeders, ponds and the reservoir we saw an excellent variety of species. Our first stop was at a Bald Eagle’s nest, which was followed by a visit to a friend’s garden where a dozen Evening Grosbeaks were. We then headed further up to Snowmass village where we were treated to hundreds of Rosy Finches of all three species (nearly all of them were Brown-capped, with maybe no more than single individuals of Black and Gray-crowned). Also around there we saw several Pine Grosbeaks, some Red-naped Sapsuckers, White-breasted Nuthatch, and a couple of Fox Sparrows of the Rocky Mountain form “schistacea” and several more Cassin’s Finches.

It was also an excellent day for ducks and other water birds at the reservoir; the many species included 35 Barrow’s Goldeneyes, with Common Goldeneyes also present for comparison, plus Buffleheads, American Wigeon, and Common Mergansers (a potential split from the Eurasian species Goosander). Also several Eared (Black-necked) Grebes were all in full breeding plumage.

Soon it was time to head for Steamboat Springs, driving through some magnificent country en-route, and seeing another Bald Eagles’ nest and five Sandhill Cranes. We had however perhaps saved the best of the day until last, as after an early dinner we headed out to a Sharp-tailed Grouse lek at dusk. Whilst waiting patiently we were very fortunate to see an American Badger shuffling past, several of us remarking how different they look to the European Badger. Shortly afterwards a dozen Sharp-tailed Grouse duly appeared, we saw at least twelve, many of them close by the vehicle, and they thrilled us with good views as they displayed. A magical way to end the day.

Day 7 - For those who didn’t take the opportunity of a lie-in, we headed back to the Sharp-tailed Grouse lek. It was terrific morning, and we all enjoyed a truly great time with the “Sharpies”, some of us watching from the vehicle, and others in a small hide next to a nearby lek. The show was excellent; the males running around like clockwork models, foot stomping, quivering their wings and calling with inflated purple air sacs. At one point one of them flew towards the vehicle and used the bonnet (hood) as a perch, but unable to perch securely on the sloping metal it slowly slid off. We got especially good views of that one. It really was fantastic! Several people voted them ‘bird of the trip’.

So, back to Steamboat where we re-grouped, took a late breakfast, checked out and headed off on the short drive to Walden. Driving up Rabbit Ears Pass we stopped more than once to admire the views and take photographs. Once at the summit the deep snow of winter still by the roadside made for even more dramatic pictures. We were pleased to see two Gray Jays, several Pine Grosbeaks and five Red Crossbills en route.

Over the pass, the drive across the inter-montane plateau of North Park was beautiful as we crossed and re-crossed Grizzly Creek, the purplish and yellow willow stems offset against a 360 degree backdrop of snow covered peaks. A pair of Sandhill Cranes close by the roadside were in a great setting, as were several Golden Eagles – indeed today was our best day for this species – we saw at least ten. Migrant American Robins were everywhere – we saw at least 200 today. Soon we were at Walden, and headed to the reservoir where the many ducks included several Canvasbacks and Buffleheads, whilst waders included Marbled Godwits, a Willet and American Avocets. 200 or so California Gulls were in residence on the breeding colony and a lone Franklins Gull was a treat. The Black-necked (or Eared) Grebes were in full plumage, with a splendid gathering of 500 or more, and there were at least 250 Western Grebes.

We checked in to our motel and went for a late afternoon drive in search of Moose. We were not to be disappointed, finding several, as well as two Rough-legged Buzzards (Hawks) before it was time to go back to town and dinner, followed by a presentation on the Greater Sage Grouse. We headed for bed, some of us detouring to see the beavers by their dam just a few yards from our motel.

Day 8 - Up early on a frosty, calm and clear morning. We arrived at the viewing hide for one of the best leks of the trip. In front of the hide, just yards away from us, there were some 60 or so male Greater Sage Grouse ready to display even before we could detect a pale glow in the sky. As the dawn broke it revealed the backdrop - a wide panorama of snow-covered peaks, and with the grouse displaying just yards away, we were duly spellbound - it was incredible. Cameras clicked as the light improved from behind us and joyous glances were exchanged. The birds stayed some good while after sunrise, and, after they had all chosen to leave, then so did we, heading back to town for a hearty and sociable breakfast. After another look at the reservoir, where the bird selection also included a Greater Yellowlegs in addition to much all the species that we saw yesterday, we set off on the short drive to Fort Collins via Cameron Pass.

Heading up towards the pass we called in at the visitor centre where we saw a lone Brown-capped Rosy Finch, several Pine Grosbeaks and Cassin’s Finches and some very showy Red-naped Sapsuckers. Some took the opportunity to buy wildlife books and cards. The road remained dry and the weather fine as we crossed Cameron Pass (10,286ft) and the panoramas of the roadside forests and mountains, buried in snow were especially memorable. Although few birds were seen at the higher elevations, it was a very enjoyable few miles. Once over the top we headed down the Cache-le-Poudre valley towards Fort Collins. Labelled a scenic byway it lived up to its name, and as we passed through we saw three American Dippers. Late afternoon we arrived in Fort Collins, where we stayed the night.

Day 9 - We headed out onto the eastern plains, with our ultimate destination the small town of Wray. En-route we made several stops, initially by a couple of the reservoirs close to town, where we saw plenty of species, including an obliging Sora right by the van. Thence we headed to the southern edge of the Pawnee National Grasslands where we spent a very successful couple of hours. This extensive tract of land is a patchwork quilt of prairie, some of it private owned and farmed, interspersed areas of public lands. Specialities here are the Mountain Plovers, Chestnut-collared and McCown’s Longspurs : we saw them all in fantastic breeding plumage. There were plenty of Swainson’s Hawks and Northern Harriers, a single Peregrine, and other notable sightings included scores of Horned Larks, many Western Meadowlarks. So to Wray, dinner and early to bed as we had to be up early the following day.

Day 10 - We had a special arrangement to visit a hide at a Greater Prairie Chicken lek and thus duly arrived in good time to be in place before first light. This was the final lek of the tour, and the birds did not disappoint – with at least 20 males “singing” their eerie cooing display, and with their bright orange inflated throat sacs they looked very impressive as they strutted their stuff. Close by we could also see a pair of Burrowing Owls. Once the Prairie Chickens had left their lek we headed back to town, on our way to a hearty breakfast. Before getting back to town a Northern Bobwhite flew over the road in front of us.

We spent the rest of the day around Hale Ponds and Bonny Reservoir, enjoying some fine weather and a great selection of land and waterbirds. Scores of ducks, pelicans and waders (Killdeer, American Avocet, Lesser Yellowlegs, Willet, Spotted Sandpiper, Marbled Godwit, Semi-palmated and Least Sandpipers, Wilson’s Snipe and Wilson’s Phalaropes). A group of Franklin’s Gulls were resplendent in breeding plumage, and there were also several Ring-billed Gulls. Several Wild Turkeys were located, as well as another couple of Northern Bobwhites, and the nine species of diurnal raptors seen included two Northern Goshawks, Osprey, Swainson’s Hawk, amongst the by now familiar American Kestrels and Turkey Vultures. Great Horned Owls occupied a nest, and a Black-tailed Prairie-Dog town hosted several Burrowing Owls. In the trees we found Red-bellied, Downy and Hairy Woodpeckers plus several Northern Flickers, plus Blue Jays, Eastern Bluebirds, Brown Thrashers and a couple of Orange-crowned Warblers.

Day 11 - We set off for Georgetown and a last day in the Rocky Mountains. En-route we enjoyed the by now familiar suite of raptors – Swainson’s and Red-tailed Hawks and American Kestrels. After checking in, we drove up to the top of the Rockies and watched for White-tailed Ptarmigan from the road. The weather was dramatic, with blowing snow and scudding clouds low over the mountaintops resulting in ever changing spectacular views, but we were not to find the elusive ptarmigan despite our patience. A migrant Brewer’s Blackbird cowered by the vehicle, a couple of Brown-capped Rosy Finches dropped in, and we saw a lone Mountain Bluebird. The wind blew up again and the snow so we found welcome refreshment and facilities at the lodge of the nearby ski resort, and had to conclude the day with top marks for effort but no White-tailed Ptarmigan.

Day 12 - The early shift drove to 12,000 feet, right on the top of the Continental Divide. It was a beautiful if crisp morning and we scoured the snow covered roadside slopes as the sun came up. With temperatures well below zero we were pleased of hand warmers, and eventually the suns rays too. Suddenly Angus spotted a small group of White-tailed Ptarmigan and soon we were all watching them – a splendid sight and an excellent and just reward for the effort.

Exhilarated we headed down for breakfast and off to the Ponderosa forests of the foothills where we enjoyed a couple of splendid hours birding. The highlight was the pair of Williamson’s Sapsuckers that gave good views in the scope as we watched them in trees close to the van. Other specialities included Pygmy Nuthatches and some nice Western Bluebirds. All too soon it was time to head for Denver and the airport where we bade farewell at the end of what had been an extremely successful and thoroughly enjoyable trip.