An excellent trip, one that was arguably the most successful yet. We combined great birding, with the all the target species seen, and many more besides, a lot of great weather, fantastic scenery and a very congenial group to travel with.

Saturday
The group arrived into Denver late afternoon on a sunny pleasant day and we were soon birding at a Burrowing Owl colony close to the airport. We headed for dinner nearby and then, with a slight change of plan, we drove to Georgetown, just an hour away. Rosy Finches had been very difficult this winter and falling snow was the pre-requisite for finding them – as they descend from the high mountain-tops to favoured feeders, and the weather forecast called for some light snow overnight on the mountains. The evening was mild and pleasant, even at over 8,000 feet in Georgetown so everyone wondered if the forecast could be right. We went to bed hoping for snow…

Sunday
We arose to a cloudy sky in Georgetown but it was dry. We headed for the feeders, a drive that involved climbing almost 3,000 feet, and as we neared our destination, the weather started to close in. There were a few light flurries of snow as we arrived, but surely not enough to encourage the Rosy Finches down from the high tops? A couple of Dark-eyed Juncos of the Gray-headed form appeared but, unsurprisingly, no Rosy Finches. A few Horned Larks flew over, heading west. We waited, and soon the snow got heavier and the visibility was much reduced. Still no Rosy Finches but surely it was heavy enough now? Sure enough Rosy Finches started to appear and we were treated to forty or more Brown-capped Rosy Finches (the species found only in the Colorado area) and four Black Rosy Finches too. The Blacks have a very local distribution too, so we were doing well. Gray-crowned – the most widespread, was being the most difficult this season, and was not in this flock. We would have to try again later in the trip. We also saw several Cassin’s Finches, another species that is also not so easy to see these days. Good start!

After breakfast we headed east for the plains, first pausing at some lakes in the Denver area for lingering winter visitors, notably a group of Hooded Mergansers that included a splendid male, and nearby, a single White-fronted Goose.

Soon it was lunchtime and we made our first stop at Subway for freshly made sandwiches, and then some birding on the Great Plains reservoirs. Highlights included an excellent variety of waders including Snowy Plovers, Killdeer, Baird’s, Western, Least and Semipalmated Sandpipers, American Avocets, Lesser Yellowlegs, Willet and Wilson’s Phalarope. In nearby trees there was a Great Horned Owl nest with two well-grown chicks. Arriving into Springfield late afternoon a Chimney Swift chattered overhead as we unpacked and we headed out for an early dinner

Monday
Setting off pre-dawn, we were in position prior to first light at the Lesser Prairie Chicken lek. Some of us stayed in the van to watch from the comfort of our “mobile hide”, whilst Brayton chose to take his camera to the somewhat cramped hide, positioned several yards closer to the lek. Horned Larks and Cassin’s Sparrows sang, and we could hear the strange sounds of the lek as males hooted and cackled. As dawn approached the light improved and the views were tremendous, especially in the scopes. The males strutted and faced each other intently, never coming to blows, but occasionally jumping in the air. With their pinnae erect, throat pouches inflated and tails cocked they looked amazing, a complete contrast from the remainder of the year when unadorned and secretive, their cryptic plumage helps them blend into the landscape. We counted ten males and a single female, and were distracted momentarily when a female Lark Bunting landed nearby.

Near the lek we took a picnic breakfast. Whilst doing so we had quite a sparrow show, with excellent views of many species, some of which are normally rather elusive, except when singing at dawn. These included Cassin’s and Grasshopper Sparrows, as well as Clay-colored, and some were lucky and identified a LeConte’s Sparrow too. Several Rock Wrens were at the roadside. All in all, another excellent start.

Setting off for the nearby canyon country we had several stops en-route, the first two of which were for small coveys of Scaled Quail. The day was warming nicely and so we were pleased to be able to make a stop for ice-creams. Next were our first Mountain Plovers, out on the prairie close to the main road, with two of them giving us excellent views. Nearby a Long-billed Curlew walked across the prairie.

A splendid male Lark Bunting caused the next stop, followed by pair of Wood Ducks on a roadside pool. By now it was lunchtime, and whilst we enjoyed our picnic we also enjoyed the birds with 15 Lewis’s Woodpeckers being the highlight, some giving prolonged views perched in the open just above us. Nearby we saw several Wild Turkeys including a splendid male in full display. Eastern and Say’s Phoebes, a single Ash-throated Flycatcher, 10 Chihuahuan Ravens and a Canyon Wren sang (unseen) from the cliffs. We did see a Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, three Townsend’s Solitaires and an obliging Hairy Woodpecker. As we left, we saw several Canyon Towhees and a small group of Lesser Goldfinches.

Back to Springfield, a hearty dinner, and to bed.

Tuesday
A “late” start at 6am as everyone chose a lie-in instead of another visit to the Lesser Prairie Chicken lek. We headed to Two Buttes State Wildlife Area for a picnic breakfast. Quite a few birds on a gorgeous morning, including a Great Horned Owl in a Cottonwood tree and nearby a delightful mixed flock of Yellow-rumped Warblers of both Myrtle and Audubon forms. As we left, we drove over the dam and looked down on the reservoir, almost totally bereft of water, victim of the multi-year drought. Alas, no waders were taking advantage of the mud. Shortly afterwards we paused for the first roadside stop of many, this one for a splendid flock of 100+Chipping Sparrows. Our next stop was for a rarity that I spotted by chance – a White-winged Dove flying alongside us, near to the wind generators south of Lamar. It landed by a water trough and we stopped for excellent views.

We headed on north then west, heading ultimately for Gunnison. Selected roadside stops meant a good day’s birding, starting on the plains, and after lunch into the mountains and over Monarch Pass. Birds seen included a small group of White-faced Ibis, a Golden Eagle that gave incredibly good views low over our heads, a covey of 6 Scaled Quail and a Curve-billed Thrasher that all showed really well, several waders including American Avocets, Semipalmated Plover, Lesser Yellowlegs, Long-billed Curlew, Western and a single Least Sandpiper and several Long-billed Dowitchers. White-throated Swifts gave good overhead displays, with other species seen including Western Kingbirds, our first Northern Rough-winged Swallows, Western Scrub Jay and Clark’s Nutcracker. We paused atop Monarch Pass (11,312ft) where we found Black-capped Chickadees, several singing Cassin’s Finches and a single Red (Common) Crossbill. The high altitude spruce-fir forest looked splendid in the afternoon sun. Heading on, a striking pair of Mountain Bluebirds welcomed us to the Gunnison valley. After checking in to our motel, we enjoyed an Italian meal and meeting up with Al Levantin (of Big Year fame) and his wife Ethel. They too were here to see Gunnison Sage Grouse – Ethel needed them as life-birds whilst doubtless Al was casually year-listing.

Wednesday
Early morning we joined up with Al and Ethel and our guide and headed for the hide from which we were to watch the lek of Gunnison Sage Grouse. We settled in on a frosty morning, comfortable with scopes and hand warmers to the ready. With the increasing light we were treated to the spectacle of 15 males and up to three females, which stayed on the lek for us until 6.20am – when they flew off. The Gunnison Sage Grouse are particularly nervous lekkers and we are pleased that they stayed so late for us – the guide tells us that this is one of the best showings of the season. Outside the hide we meet up with Mark Obmascik (author of The Big Year) and another subject of that book – Greg Miller. Heading for breakfast Al points out a dark phase Swainson’s Hawk at the roadside, and we divert to look for a Glossy Ibis but cannot find it. After breakfast we check out of the motel and head west, through the mountains and rolling hills and Mesas towards the Colorado River and the town of Grand Junction where we will stay the night. Roadside stops yield Sage Thrashers, Cinnamon Teal and Red-naped Sapsuckers amongst others, and by lunchtime we arrive at the Black Canyon. We pause at a couple of the overlooks, thrilling to the view, and have a picnic lunch at tables under ancient Juniper trees and Pinyon Pines. A bemused Clark’s Nutcracker eyes us as a snow shower adds a touch of surrealism to the scene. Afterwards two more Clark’s Nutcrackers give us fantastic views, as well as a couple of Western Scrub Jays and a Green-tailed Towhee. The views of the canyon are spectacular.

A few miles down the road we pause in Delta at a favoured spot for Ross’s Geese – we see four, and chance upon 50 Marbled Godwits as they pause on migration. On to a nearby reservoir where highlights include terrific views of a further 130 Marbled Godwits, 60 Western and a single Clarke’s Grebe, 24 White-faced Ibis, a Marsh Wren, many ducks, and most surprisingly of all, a single Sandhill Crane. Once again, Golden Eagles are a feature of the day.

On to Grand Junction where we are invited in to watch Black-chinned Hummingbirds at a friend’s feeders, before heading out in search of Gambel’s Quail, which eventually show themselves. Next we head for a Western Screech Owl in the suburbs, which is obliging with good views in the late afternoon sun, before we head into the spectacular Colorado National Monument. Here we track down a singing Canyon Wren and some Bushtits. The end of another long and very successful day. So to dinner and bed.

Thursday
We start “late” with a 6am breakfast and then head for the Roaring Fork Valley. As we drive through DeBeque Canyon we have first rain, then snow, but it clears by the time we get to the house and we pause for some birding at the feeders in the back garden where we add American Goldfinch and Song Sparrow to the trip list. On up valley to a friend’s house where we thrilled to an incredible 600 or more Rosy Finches in the garden, nearly all of them Brown-capped, with just a few Blacks and yes – a single Gray-crowned – that fed for several minutes at our feet. Several Evening Grosbeaks, Pine Siskins and Mountain Chickadees fed there too, and the fresh snow rapidly melting in the warm sunshine made it truly a morning to remember. Heading back down valley we met up with a local birder and gained entry to the reservoir where I had been watching several Barrow’s Goldeneyes lingering in the days prior to the tour. Our luck was in and we saw a pair, as well as a Great Northern Diver (Common Loon) in summer plumage. Our search for Juniper Titmouse resulted in great views of Steller’s Jays but no titmice, before we headed for more sandwiches from Subway. We drove a mile or so and ate whilst watching a Golden Eagle on the nest with summer plumage American Pipits all around the van. A short way afterwards we paused to look at a Bald Eagle nest, in a huge Ponderosa pine, with both adults in attendance. Now it was time to head for Steamboat, driving through some magnificent country – up the Colorado river through Glenwood Canyon, past the Flattops Wilderness and into Steamboat late afternoon. En-route we stopped more than once for raptors – highlights being a Rough-legged Buzzard and a Prairie Falcon. Everyone opted for an early night, so after a lovely Italian meal we went early to bed.

Friday
Pre-dawn we drove to Hayden, met up with one of the locals and headed out to a Sharp-tailed Grouse lek. It was another glorious morning, with scarcely a breeze and as the sun came up we enjoyed 25 Sharp-tailed Grouse on the lek, foot-stomping. quivering their wings and calling with inflated purple air sacs. A terrific show! Nearby a herd of Elk and several Pronghorn were an added bonus. After an hour or so we headed off to see if we could find Blue Grouse in a favoured spot and sure enough we were lucky again with at least three males displaying within a half mile or so, one of which was right next to the road. A short way further a Great Horned Owl sat on its nest, ably spotted by Brayton, and a little further still, another herd of Elk showed themselves.

So, back to Steamboat, via another Bald Eagle nest and a roadside Yellow-bellied Marmot. We took breakfast, checked out and headed the short distance to Walden. Climbing Rabbit Ears Pass we stopped more than once to admire the views and take photographs. The deep snow on top was dramatic, and it was perhaps not too surprising that we encountered two lingering Rough-legged Buzzards up here. They tend to stay longer into spring here than in any other part of the state. Driving across the intermontane plateau of North Park was beautiful as we crossed and re-crossed Grizzly Creek, the purplish and yellow willow stems looking very colourful with a 360 degree backdrop of snow covered peaks. Wilson’s Snipe displayed for us, and many Dark-eyed Junco’s fed by the road. Larry spotted an adult Black-crowned Night Heron, and as we watched it, we were distracted by a Prairie Falcon dashing overhead before wheeling round and passing by a second time. We turned and the Night Heron had gone from view – very sensible! Shortly after we stopped for a Golden Eagle sat on a roadside pole that gave us unbelievably good views. Soon we were at Walden, exhausted by the scenery.

We headed to the reservoir and where the many ducks included several Canvasbacks, and waders included Marbled Godwits and American Avocets, whilst at least 100 California Gulls were in residence on the breeding colony. The breeding Black-necked (or Eared) Grebes were in full plumage and showed well.

We checked in to our motel and went for a splendid barbecue dinner, followed by a presentation on Greater Sage Grouse. We headed for bed, some of us detouring to see the Beavers by the dam just a few yards from the motel. A Muskrat was an added bonus.

Saturday
Up early it was frosty, calm and clear. We arrived at the viewing hide for our escort to discover that she had left the key behind. My mobile phone rapidly summoned her husband with instructions to bring it immediately, which he did and we gained access after a short wait (that seemed like an eternity). Good job as it was to be one of the best mornings of the entire trip. In front of the hide, just yards away from us, there were 80 male Greater Sage Grouse displaying like crazy, with five females casually eyeing up the best on offer. With the backdrop a wide panorama of snow-covered peaks, and the sun was coming up over our shoulders, not surprisingly we were spellbound - it was totally incredible. Cameras clicked, joyous glances exchanged and hands rubbed in glee (unless you didn’t have hand warmers in which case they were rubbed to warm up!) The birds stayed long after sunrise, until finally, as is normal, they all chose to fly off en-masse. We too packed up and left. After a hearty and sociable breakfast we set off on the short drive to Fort Collins via Cameron Pass. Initially we skirted the Arapaho Wildlife refuge, (more great views of Golden Eagle) and soon afterwards we stopped for a couple of Moose in some roadside willows. Next stop was at the appropriately named Moose Visitor Centre where although the bird feeders were empty we had great views of a Fox Sparrow of the Slate-coloured form and a pair of Pine Grosbeaks. The road remained dry and the weather beautiful as we crossed Cameron Pass (10,286ft) with views of the roadside forests and mountains, buried in snow being especially memorable. Although few birds were seen at the higher elevations, it was a very enjoyable few miles. Once over the top we headed down the Cache-le-Poudre valley towards Fort Collins. Labelled a scenic byway it too lived up to its name, especially in the sunshine and we made several stops. We found three American Dipper nests (from previous years) under one bridge, and a little further on we found a pair building this year’s nest on a riverside boulder. It was fascinating to watch them gather material from underwater and use it in the construction. A flock of Bighorn Sheep were at the roadside and we were able to stop and get some great views and photos. Late afternoon we arrived in Fort Collins, checked in to our motel, and, spoilt for choice in this larger town, we decided to go to the Vietnamese restaurant for dinner. Very good it was too.

Sunday
Setting off after a 6am breakfast we headed out onto the eastern plains. Our first stop was in search of Virginia Rail, which duly obliged, along with some very confiding Yellow-headed Blackbirds. A brief stop to grab our lunch was followed by the drive to the Pawnee National Grasslands. This extensive tract of land is a patchwork quilt of prairie, some of it privately owned and farmed, other parts are public lands. We simply skirted its southern edge, soon seeing several Mountain Plovers, Chestnut-collared and McCown’s Longspurs and hundreds of Horned Larks, as well as a couple of Golden Eagles, several Swainson’s and a single Red-tailed Hawk, a Burrowing Owl and many Western Meadowlarks. We paused for lunch, made all the more interesting by a nesting pair of Great Horned Owls and a pair of Blue Jays.

So to Yuma where we checked in early and headed out in search of Eastern Screech Owl. Lucky again, it didn’t take us long to locate one (well spotted Pauline!) and we enjoyed fantastic views in the early evening sunshine. After dinner we went early to bed as we had to be up early the following day.

Monday
Gathering in reception well before dawn we downed coffee, cereal and donuts before setting off. We arrived in good time and were in place at the Greater Prairie Chicken lek before first light. Several males attended, “singing” their eerie cooing display vocals, and with inflated throat sacs they looked very impressive, but were not very settled and with no females evident (it is towards the end of their season) they did not linger too long after sunrise. As we left we saw a pair of Burrowing Owls and one or two Upland Sandpipers – the first time we have seen the latter species on the tour. Nearby a group of Wild Turkeys by a stream included a splendid male, displaying in the morning sunshine.

We headed to Hale Ponds where we had our second breakfast in the form of a picnic, followed by a leisurely stroll through the cottonwoods around the ponds and along the banks of the Republican River. Highlights included several Eastern Bluebirds, more Wild Turkeys, three Spotted Sandpipers, a Lincoln’s Sparrow, and just before leaving, a covey of Bobwhite Quail that were extremely confiding.

We headed to nearby Bonny Reservoir where we had a picnic lunch and birded the rest of the afternoon. It was excellent, with many highlights, including an extraordinary 500 Sandhill Cranes in the shallows (they normally pass through a month earlier), many White Pelicans, two Cattle Egrets, 15 Snow Geese, Osprey, and a vagrant Broad-winged Hawk. Waders were especially rewarding with three Piping Plovers, a summer plumaged Hudsonian Godwit, as well as several Semipalmated Plovers, American Avocets, Willet, and many peeps: Semipalmated, Western, Least and Baird’s Sandpipers, as well as Wilson’s Phalarope, Long-billed Dowitchers and Wilson’s Snipe. Forty Franklin’s Gulls were all in breeding plumage, and several Bonaparte’s, many Ring-billed Gulls and five Forster’s Terns combined to ensure a very impressive afternoon’s birding. As we headed for the motel we saw Great Horned Owls at two different locations, perched on telegraph poles by the road, as well as several Swainson’s Hawks, roosting up for the night.

Tuesday
Another “late” start, we breakfasted at the incredibly late hour of 7am, before we set off for Georgetown and our last look at the Rocky Mountains. The snow shoe shop was closed – it looked like the Marie Celeste – with phone ringing inside the locked door – and when we went next door to ask, they were closed too! So we headed up Guanella Pass with my re-assuring words that we had never really needed snow shoes up there, only to find it deeper in snow than any other time I have been there! We gave it our best, and saw quite a few birds too – American Pipits, Horned Larks, a Myrtle Warbler of the Audubon’s form, a Rocky Mountain form Fox Sparrow singing in the willows, Ravens tumbling overhead, but alas no White-tailed Ptarmigan. Heading back down to Georgetown we were rewarded with terrific views of three Beavers feeding happily by their dam whilst we watched from the van and a Muskrat swam across the pool. Pauline, Brayton and Wanda vowed to renew the search for ptarmigan with me in the morning.

Wednesday
The early risers left at 5.30am and we drove to 12,000 feet, right on the top of the Continental Divide. It was a beautiful if crisp morning and we scoured the snow covered roadside slopes as the sun came up. With temperatures hovering around –10C, we were pleased of hand warmers, and eventually the sun’s rays too. An American Robin or two flew by, and American Pipits song-flighted from exposed perches. Suddenly Brayton spotted a White-tailed Ptarmigan and soon we were all watching it – a splendid sight and an excellent and just reward for the effort. Pauline did a great job of ensuring that the “youngsters” in the group weren’t the only ones to see it – well done!

Exhilarated we headed down for breakfast and off to the Ponderosa forests of the foothills where we enjoyed a splendid few hours birding. Invited into a friend’s garden we watched Red-breasted, White-breasted and Pygmy Nuthatches, as well as Broad-tailed Hummingbirds and the recently arrived Violet Green Swallows. Dark phase Abert’s Squirrels were another highlight here, with their unfeasibly large eartufts. Nearby we completed the bluebird set with several Western Bluebirds, and at my favourite site, we were again lucky with Williamson’s Sapsucker. With an hour or so to spare, we tried for Northern Pygmy Owl, but without success. It was lunchtime and also time to head for the airport – and in less than an hour we were there and saying our goodbyes. It had been an excellent trip, which, as always, was made all the more special by an excellent team: everyone got on really well with each other and were very appreciative of the amazing birds and scenery of Colorado.