By assistant tour leader Russ Boland.
Summary
This was WildWings’ 17th trip to this renowned Asian migration Mecca, and it was another great success.
Highlights, once again, were many and difficult to ratify and included a mix of the stunning, the elusive, the endangered and the ultra-rare. The trip list of 250 species included two Black-faced Spoonbills, Chinese Egrets, Falcated Duck, Ibisbill, male Pied Harrier, Asian Dowitcher, Little Whimbrel, Relict and Saunder’s Gulls, Yellow-legged Buttonquail, Koklass Pheasant, Upland Buzzard, Brown Hawk Owl, Siberian Thrush, Grey Bushchat, Plumbeous Redstart, Blue and White Flycatcher and, monumentally, a Streaked Reed Warbler. Add a record passage of Amur Falcons and 1000+ Great Knot, plus three WildWings ‘firsts’ and you have another memorable birding experience.
It would be sinful to forget the spectacle and beauty of the regular migrants, though, and species like Eye-browed and Dusky Thrushes, Radde’s, Arctic, Eastern Crowned and Pallas’s Warblers, Yellow-rumped Flycatcher and a variety of buntings are all synonymous with the Beidaihe experience. With our first-class ground agent and the excellent Jin Shan hotel providing supremely agreeable food and beer, it’s not surprising to hear clients regularly rate the trip as the best they’ve done.
Development Update
Such is the way of things in this industrialised part of Eastern China that we are now no longer surprised about how fast areas are being transformed. Each May we arrive, it seems the landscape has changed again. The area to the south of Beidaihe - the Laoting region in particular - is changing at a frightening rate and, according to local knowledge, some key sites are under enormous threat.
One positive aspect is the increasing number of Chinese bird photographers. We hope that before long it will be a case of ‘strength in numbers’ and those in powers will listen to the concerns that will be inevitably raised. Unfortunately in China things will never be so straightforward.
The recent segregation of part of the Sandflats at Beidaihe is an example of what can be achieved. WildWings were instrumental in campaigning for this highly sensitive area to be conserved for wildlife, and it is already looking more productive.
As we witnessed on this trip, some areas - ultimately because of their tourist appeal - are stringently managed. Because of fire-risk, the important bird sites of the Lotus Hills, Old Peak and The Great Wall were closed to all but the select few. It is naturally frustrating, then, to see areas of habitat that might not be as ‘visually appealing’ not enjoying the same form of protection.
Of course, WidWings will continue to monitor the ever-changing situation, looking at areas old and new. We will hopefully use the knowledge and experience amassed from our many trips to make the most of the brilliant birding still on offer.
Thursday 5th May
Following our overnight flight to Beijing we checked-in into our city centre hotel which would be our base for the next two days. Everyone then had a couple of hours to enjoy a siesta and visit the local supermarket to top up on the usual birder’s fare of fruit, pastries and the excellent tinned coffee! Come late afternoon we travelled over to the Summer Palace for a steady intro to Chinese birding. This huge area of parkland and is extremely popular with Beijing folk but there is usually several species of interest and occasionally something special. Out on the lake were two Falcated Ducks - a late returning wintering species and one which we seldom seen, a Goldeneye, four Mandarin Ducks, three Great Egrets, 20 Black-crowned Night Herons and two longipennis Common Terns. Making our way around the park we were able to enjoy a party of Olive-backed Pipits, whilst the larger trees hosted Yellow-browed and Pallas’s Warblers, Taiga Flycatchers, plus a party of roving Yellow-bellied Tits. The quieter areas held the odd Radde’s and Dusky Warblers and a male mandarinus Blackbird. It wasn’t too long before our main target of Crested Kingfisher was under the belt, and after enjoying this splendid bird we were then treated to excellent views of a perched-up Chinese Goshawk. Continuing the raptor theme, we then witnessed a small passage of two Oriental Honey Buzzards, two ringtail Pied harriers, a Black-eared Kite and a Hobby. Back at base we concluded our first day with a fine meal and a couple of bottles of the refreshing local beer in a nearby restaurant.
Friday 6th May
To give ourselves plenty of time to look for the target birds in the Baihe River area, a very early start was required in order to beat the notoriously busy Beijing traffic. Making good time we were soon on site and began a steady amble along the river valley. Collecting birds along the way, Hill Pigeon, two Citrine Wagtails, Duarian Redstart, Russet Sparrow, Little, Siberian and Godlewski’s Buntings and 15 Vinous-throated Parrotbills all vied for our attention. We also heard six Chinese Hill Warblers and enjoyed four very obliging Plain Laughing Thrushes. Raptors were moving, with four Eastern Buzzards, an Eastern Marsh Harrier and six Amur Falcons logged. Moving on, one of our group spotted a Wildwings first in the shape of a redhead Smew making its way along the river. After checking another stretch of the river we hit the jackpot with two Ibisbills and a Long-billed Plover. We managed to get superb views of both species - a great finale to an excellent morning’s birding. Back in Beijing we had the opportunity to grab another short siesta before taking a walk down to the local Yuyuantan Park. Much smaller than the Summer Palace, but equally as popular this little park has little pockets of excellent habitat and often attracts small numbers of migrants. The 40 Yellow-browed Warblers and Taiga Flycatchers we counted were a good sign of the goodies to come, and a Dusky Thrush, a Chinese Song Thrush, a Red-flanked Bluetail, two Eastern Crowned Warblers and Tristram’s, Yellow-throated and Yellow-browed Buntings made for an excellent few hours. Our Beijing birding duly finished on a high, and the food and drink that night tasted especially good.
Saturday 7th May
Again, a very early start was necessary in order to arrive at the Beidaihe for breakfast. The boring three and half hour coach trip by motorway offers the ideal opportunity to garb some compensating shut-eye though.
After an excellent breakfast at the iconic Jinshan Hotel - our base for the next two weeks - and completing the booking in formalities we hit the field. The plan for the next two days was to introduce the group to the key sites in the area. Beginning in the Jinshan itself, things were fairly quiet by Beidaihe standards but regular migrants like Pallas’s, Yellow-browed, Dusky and Radde’s warblers proved excellent ID yardsticks for the scarcities that would no doubt follow. At the point we flushed a Japanese Quail before finding Bluethroat, a male Daurian Redstart and a Grey-backed Thrush, along with more phylloscopus warblers, including an Eastern Crowned Warbler. The legendary Jinshan Field was our next port of call, where we collected the first Brown Shrikes and counted over 40 Siberian Stonechats - this being a favoured area. We then moved on to the grounds of the Friendship Hotel, where a Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, a stunning male Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Siberian Rubythroat, Siberian Blue Robin, White’s, Eye-browed and Dusky Thrushes entertained us for a good couple of hours. With time swiftly moving on, we took the coach down to the new Wildlife Park, formerly known as Yeng Ho reservoir. As is always the case on first days here, new birds were coming thick and fast, and during our walk we had Eurasian Spoonbill, Eastern Great Egrets, Garganey, 36 Whiskered Terns, a Black-capped Kingfisher, Yellow-browed Bunting and, best of all, three Grey-headed Lapwings. Further goodies included a pair of Amur Falcons, a Red-billed Starling, Vinous-throated Parrotbills and an early Grey-streaked Flycatcher. Back at the Jinshan we had time to admire another very obliging Dusky Thrush by the field, before taking a well-earned shower and sitting down to the first of some truly excellent dinners at our hotel.
Sunday 8th May
The group was out from dawn for our first full day at Beidaihe, and a singing Chinese Grosbeak and a Dusky Thrush were right outside our front door! With the group spreading out after breakfast there’s always the inevitable ‘headless chicken’ scenario when new birds are springing up everywhere! Two Oriental Scops Owls, a Forest Wagtail, a Grey-sided Thrush, a Tristram’s Bunting plus a stunning male Yellow-breasted Bunting were all found in Friendship. Around the Jinshan were several Black-faced Buntings, a Hume’s Warbler, a Red-flanked Bluetail, plus counts of c.60 Yellow-browed and 20+ Pallas’s Warblers. After a quick lunch we boarded the coach for the pools near the Yang He estuary. Here there was a multitude of waders, including two mongolius Lesser Sandplovers, 94 Marsh Sandpipers, 10 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, 12 Temminck’s Stints and two Red-necked Stints. This area was looking its most productive in recent years, so further visits were definitely on the cards. We then drove the short distance back to Beidaihe to check out the sandflats area, which are now accessed through Pigeon Nest Park. Here we had another good selection of waders, including three Terek Sandpipers but the star-bird was a superb Little Whimbrel. With our group now introduced to the key sites in Beidaihe, we were now ready for the inevitable magic carpet ride.
Monday 9th May
Folowing last night’s rain, today dawned misty and cool. Thirty Eye-browed Thrushes over the Jin Shan were definitely new in, but things seemed relatively quiet. Down at the Yang He after breakfast, however, things couldn’t have been any more different where an exceptional fall of buntings included three Chestnut-eared, two Yellow-browed, five Tristram’s, six Chestnut, 27 Yellow-breasted, 110 Pallas’s Reeds and a truly excellent 33 Japanese Reed Buntings. Caught up in this were 50 Siberian Stonechats, a Richard’s Pipit, a Wryneck, 30 Chinese Penduline Tits and 60+ White-eye sp. As well as our first Eastern Cattle Egret of the trip there were a greater number of waders than the previous day, too, including 76 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, 15 Red-necked Stints, plus trip additions of 33 Curlew Sandpipers (mostly in superb breeding garb) and Far-eastern Curlew and nine Eastern Black-tailed Godwits. Back at Beidaihe, a Baillon’s Crake took refuge at the unlikely locale of Lighthouse Point, with another Little Whimbrel, this time a fly-over, a bit more expected here! The Sandflats Little Whimbrel remained faithful to its patch, and there were also two Red-throated Pipits, nine Pallas’s Reed, single Japanese Reed and, most unusually, a Red Turtle Dove. Over at the reservoir we counted an excellent 12 Striated Herons and 30 Vinous-throated Parrotbills, plus the first Indian Cuckoo and Black-browed Reed Warblers of the trip.
Tuesday 10th May
It was another overcast, though warmer, morning. It soon became apparent that there had been a good arrival of thrushes overnight, with the Friendship Hotel coming into it’s own as the place for these absorbing birds. Four White’s, two Siberian, two Grey-backed, and single Grey-sided, Dusky and White-throated Rock Thrushes were found and demonstrate just how good this place can be. The grounds also hosted our first Claudia’s Warbler and Mugimaki Flycatchers, plus an excellent nine Chestnut Buntings.
Over birds had also arrived, with two Eastern Marsh Harriers over Lighthouse Point and a low flying migrant Grey-faced Buzzard over the Jinshan. Two male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrushes, a rare bird at Beidaihe, were also found in the Jinshan. A male Yellow-breasted Bunting joined the ever-present Siberian Stonechats on the Jinshan Field. A further stunning male White-throated Rock Thrush was at Lighthouse Point, along with a Daurian Redstart and the first Pale-legged Leaf Warbler. At the reservoir a group of our vigilant observers picked up a Chinese Goshawk, a Hair-crested Drongo and our first Grey Nightjar of the trip. Pigeon Nest Park held a Wryneck and a Dusky Thrush, and with the Sandflats looking particularly good for waders it wasn’t too surprising to find our first Great Knot out there loafing. These two handsome waders offered us a taste of what was to come.
Wednesday 11th May
Another warm and very dry day dawned. The early risers were rewarded with two Red-billed Starlings in the Jinshan grounds. A little later on our first philippensis Blue Rock Thrush was under the belt, courtesy of a brief male at Lighthouse Point. After breakfast and a visit to the supermarket to top up on supplies we were on the road south. First port of call was the Yang He area where we had another chance to study the excellent variety of waders at close quarters, including 11 Long-toed Stints. We mopped up on a few of bunting species, including Pallas’s Reed and Yellow-breasted, and also found a stunning taivana Yelow Wagtail and the trip’s first Oriental Reed Warbler and Daurian Starling. An hour or so later we arrived at Da Pu Hei. We always spend a bit of time here, checking out this area of grassland and scattered trees. This year it was fairly quiet but members of the group were able to catch up with birds like Japanese Quail, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, White’s Thrush and Brown Flycatcher. As predicted, we also found the first Fan-tailed Warblers of the trip here. Back on the road and from the comfort of the bus we picked up a migrating Black-eared Kite. With Happy Island off limits to everyone this year (even WildWings!) we would be concentrating our efforts on the mainland, which is arguably just as good. Arriving at the fabled Magic Wood late afternoon it was all systems go as we began to work this small plantation. Before long we flushed a superb Brown Hawk Owl, and this or another bird would take up residence here for the next few days, giving fantastic views at times. Whilst searching for this predator we also found a rare brown phase Oriental Scops Owl, which also proved very obliging. The next few hours produced Grey Nightjar, our first Asian Short-toed Lark, Arctic Warbler and Black-naped Oriole, plus Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Black Drongo, Mugimaki and Yellow-rumped Flycatchers and Yellow-browed and Tristram’s Buntings - and this was considered fairly steady stuff!
With dusk approaching we left for our hotel in the nearby port of Jin Tang, where we would enjoy the first of three very comfortable nights.
Thursday 12th May
As we were boarding the bus for our second of several visits to the Magic Wood a male philippensis Blue Rock Thrush suddenly alighted on the roof of the hotel foyer, enabling several of the group a ‘grip back’!
Enroute to the Magic Wood we began to pick out migrating raptors, mainly distant harriers and falcons, but two overhead birds were identified as Upland Buzzards. With the wind blowing from the north west, anticipation levels began to rise. At Magic Wood our first Pacific Swifts were watched passing overhead and several more Hobbys and Amur Falcons were logged also heading into the stiff wind. On the deck we soon found a Watercock, our one and only White-breasted Waterhen, Grey Nightjar, a male Siberian Thrush, Wryneck, seven Ashy Minivets, four Red-throated Pipits, a Pechora Pipit plus good numbers of Olive-backed Pipits and several species of bunting, including Chestnut and Yellow-browed.
With conditions being so good for visible migration we rather reluctantly left to check out the area known as the Big Wood. Due to development, this plantation is unfortunately only a shadow of its former self but it can and frequently does still produce the goods. Today it seemed very quiet, though and our attention turned to the skies. A couple more ringtail Pied Harriers and several more Amur Falcons, plus a Chinese Goshawk were watched passing over but the star of the show was the stunning adult male Pied Harrier which casually winged its way over our group - adult males have all generally passed through well before, so are very rare. Back at Magic Wood the migration spectacle continued well into the late afternoon and the group enjoyed one of he best visible migration watches we’ve had on any Beidaihe trip. We logged a total of 113 Amur Falcons (many of them adult males giving amazingly close views as they passed over), 24 Hobbys, 13 Pied Harriers, a Grey-faced Buzzard, Peregrine, 129 Pacific Swifts, and two Asian House Martins to name a few. Waders, too, were moving and flocks of 89 Pacific Golden Plover, 33 Curlew Sandpipers and 22 Wood Sandpipers, plus two Little Whimbrel were also logged, as were the 40 White-winged Black Terns. A lone Pied Kingfisher - a WildWings first - was spotted from our raised observation point, but perhaps the best birds appeared right at the end - two distant Black-faced Spoonbills were identified following the coast line - another first and a threatened species to boot! We soon left, tired but elated, and our meals and beer tasted especially good again that evening.
Friday 13th May
Once again we were up early and off to the Magic Wood. The wind, although still blustery, had switched to a more westerly bearing. Upon arrival at the site an increase in passerines was quite evident, with flitting phylloscopus warblers particularly so. Two-barred Greenish, Arctic, Pale-legged Leaf, Eastern Crowned and Claudia’s Warblers were soon all under the belt. The c.200 Yellow-browed, c.50 Pallas’s and c.200 Radde’s provided a constant throng of birds to look through, plus an excellent ID education! Flycatchers, too, were well represented with c.30 Asian Brown, 12 Yellow-rumped, C.100 Taiga, two Grey-streaked and, best of all, male and female Blue and White Flycatcher. With an abundance of flycatchers and warblers, there is also a good chance of the rarer thrushes and three Siberian, a White’s and a Naumann’s all obliged. Two Brown Hawk Owls were also at large, and we had stunning views of these handsome predators on more than one occasion. Raptors were generally ‘thin in the air’ today but we did pick up another migrant Upland Buzzard and another 20 Amur Falcons. 15 Black-naped Orioles, Forest Wagtail, White-throated Rock Thrush, two Yellow-throated Buntings and our first Common Cuckoo and Rufous-tailed Robin added yet more variety to another outstanding day at his superb migration magnet.
We aimed to spend the last couple of hours looking over the mudflats at the nearby Laoyujian harbour area. Timing is critical, but can be notoriously difficult to judge here, if one wants to get decent views of the feeding and roosting waders. We timed this visit just about right, and there was clearly an excellent variety birds present. We logged c.150 Red-necked Stints, 120 sakahlina Dunlin, c.60 Lesser Sandplovers, c.200 Grey Plover and a very impressive 1200+ Great Knot. Panning through the waders we then proceeded to locate one of our three target species here - an Asian Dowitcher. Further vigilance paid off a little later on with a Chinese Egret and both Relict and Saunders’ Gulls giving the group a fly-by, the latter species showing off particularly well! There was still time to pick up the tail-end of yesterday’s raptor passage, with a Northern Goshawk and a kettle of six Grey-faced Buzzards watched coming ‘in-off’. So, from a ‘vis-mig’ extravaganza yesterday we had now enjoyed an excellent passerine fall followed by a gull and wader-fest! What was to come?
Saturday 14th May
Now fully into the early morning routine we were back at the Magic Wood shortly after dawn. The incredibly dry weather continued, with the wind now blowing from the south west. Again, this site showed what a phenomenally diverse place it can be. Migrant numbers in the wood were down on yesterday but birds were clearly still moving through. An estimated 200+ Chinese Penduline Tits passed over, as did six White-winged Black Terns and four more Pied Harriers. Our only Hawfinch of the trip briefly dropped in, and Siberian Thrushes now totalled an impressive five, whilst Pallas’s Warblers had increased to c.150 and thee was an impressive 82 Little Buntings. Find of the day was the Yellow-legged Buttonquail which predictably eluded almost everyone. Later, as temperatures rose, raptors were once again on the move and this time it was Oriental Honey Buzzards which stole he show with 21 counted, again one or two individuals showed superbly well as they passed close overhead. Also moving was yet another Black-eared Kite, a Grey-faced Buzzard and 20+ Amur Falcons. With time now pressing we decided to try the harbour area again. Birds were that bit farther out this time, but the Asian Dowitcher remained among the 300 or so Bar-tailed Godwits. Twenty plus Terek Sandpipers were logged, plus 4 Broad-billed Sandpipers - yet another addition for our already impressive wader list. Arriving back at a fairly quiet Beidaihe with a couple of hours of daylight to spare, an Eastern Marsh Harrier was over the Jin Shan Field, a Daurian Redstart was found in the hotel grounds and a Chinese Song Thrush was yet another good Friendship find.
Sunday 15th May
Back at Beidaihe we discovered we’d not missed much of consequence, and we were back out in field early doors. As is often the case here, a large fall does not become apparent until a couple of hours after dawn, and with the wind coming from the east, today would be a classic example. Down at Lighthouse Point our Lanceolated Warbler was an excellent sign of things to come, and was closely followed by a Yellow-legged Buttonquail - again rather selectively choosing its audience! Black-browed Reed Warblers appeared to be in every bush, along with Radde’s Warblers - two typical ‘carrier species’. The first Thick-billed Warbler soon followed, and a Siberian Bush Warbler was another excellent find. After breakfast it was clear that the point was the place to be, with some superb birding on offer - Lighthouse Point at its best. Among the c.200 Radde’s Warblers and Black-browed Reeds, Two-barred Greenish Warblers reached double figures and there was a stunning supporting cast of a Watercock, a Brown Hawk Owl, Black-capped Kingfisher, a Grey Nightjar, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Siberian, Dusky, Pale and Red-throated Thrushes, a Rufous-tailed Robin, a Yellow-streaked Warbler and a Mugimaki Flycatcher. Away from the point it seemed fairly quiet - probably because no one wanted (or dared!) to be anywhere else! Birding the surrounding Jin Shan area and the Friendship Hotel did contribute to some impressive day counts of 100 Brown Shrikes, 17 Siberian Rubythroats, 12 Siberian Blue Robins, 12 Bluethroats, 15 Thick-billed Warblers and 12 Lanceolated Warblers. A small contingent did visit the Yang He pools, where wader numbers remained impressive, and logged 150 Marsh Sandpipers and 75 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers. So, another bird-filled day with warm sunshine, blue sky and topped off with more fine Jin Shan food and lashings of cold beer - what more could a birder want?
Monday 16th May
With the weather remaining extremely pleasant, it wasn’t too big a surprise to find lots of yesterday’s migrants had cleared out. Still, this being Beidaihe in mid-May there is always the feeling of the next ‘biggie’ just around the corner. Most of the group decided to spend most of the day around the reservoir and Wetland Park, as we’d not checked this out for a few days. Down at the point before breakfast, however, 21 White-winged Black Terns flew past while a Rufous-tailed Robin remained in situ.
A Richard’s Pipit and a Chestnut-eared Bunting skulked around on the Jin Shan Field, and a Purple Heron came in of the sea, followed by a Large Hawk Cuckoo bombing through Suzy Wong’s. Down at the Wetland Park, as anticipated, it was rather busy with birds and c.40 Black-browed Reed Warblers plus three Oriental Reed Warblers were counted. The reservoir was producing the goods, too, with a Falcated Duck, six Grey-headed Lapwings, two Eastern Water Rails, a Baillon’s Crake and, best of all, two Schrenck’s Bitterns. Seven Ashy Minivets were also seen, plus a good variety of flycatcher’s and Buntings.
A distant Chinese Egret could be seen out on the tide line from Pigeon Nest Park, along with 11 Red-necked Stints. Back at Lighthouse Point an Elisae’s Flycatcher was a good find, along with a very interesting phylloscopus warbler which showed characteristics of Sakhalin Leaf Warbler - a close relative of Pale-legged Leaf warbler, of which there had been a mini-influx. Although lacking the ‘manic’ factor of yesterday, birds were still coming thick and fast, albeit at a more leisurely pace!
Tuesday 17th May
The warm, dry weather continued and efforts again were concentrated around Beidaihe, with a lone wolf heading for the Yang He area. The regular hotel Chinese Grosbeak once again treated only the early risers to its rather melodious song, and its huge bill! Yesterday’s action at the reservoir prompted further visits down to the Wetland Park to look for the Schrenck’s Bitterns. Alas, these were keeping a low profile but there was plenty of alternative interest in the shape of a flushed Oriental Honey Buzzard, the reservoir’s resident Amur Falcons, another Elisae’s Flycatcher, a Forest Wagtail, two Rufous-tailed Robins, two White-throated Rock Thrushes and c.30 Vinous-throated Parrotbills. Back around the Jin Shan area Dusky Warblers were the day’s fall species, with c.100 counted. This is plumb time to seek out Pallas’s Grasshopper Warblers, and one duly obliged, albeit for the chosen few, at Lighthouse Point. Rather over-shadowed, but still well notable at the point was a Chinese Goshawk and a Chestnut Bunting. Early evenings often produce movements of Whimbrel flying along the coast, and occasionally these flocks host Little Whimbrels. It was particularly pleasing to see (and hear) our anticipation rewarded with one passing over with 77 of its larger cousins. Our ‘vis-mig’ session also produced a fly-by party of 15 Daurian Starlings! Our Yang He birder reported more good-sized flocks of wading birds, plus our only Caspian Terns of the trip. He then proceeded to have us nearly choking on our beers that evening with his convincing report of a female Grey Bushchat - a Beidaihe ‘mega’! This is only WildWings second ever record and another excellent find.
Wednesday 18th May
Again it dawned a hazy, warm day. The first couple of hours would be spent around Beidaihe before we would be departing for our trip to Zushan Mountain, or Old Peak, for the upland specialities. Down at Lighthouse Point a Lanceolated Warbler was found, although a fall was not really on our wish list today!
It appeared to be an odd migrant, however as things seemed generally quiet. A fly-over Dollarbird was another excellent sighting - we only usually get the single record most years. After breakfast we stopped off at a local mini-market to top up on supplies before heading out towards Quinhuangdao and on towards Old Peak. After a convenience stop and the obligatory Great Wall photo shoot our eagle-eyed leader alerted us to what he thought was a Plumbeous Redstart by the roadside stream. Quickly disembarking, we soon confirmed this as a stunning male - and a WildWings rarity to boot! Soon after we arrived at Old Peak and began listening out for the target birds - Blunt-winged Warbler and Manchurian Bush Warbler. Neither of these performed but a Hair-crested Drongo was seen, and a Yellow-streaked Warbler sang near our lunch stop, as did an Asian Stub-tail, but seeing it was different matter entirely! Being mid-day and very warm it wasn’t ideal conditions so we decided to drive up to the hotel, but not before we heard the manic, accelerating song of Large Hawk Cuckoo and were treated to an excellent dog-fight between a Grey-faced Buzzard and a couple of Large-billed Crows! After booking in we were soon admiring nesting Chinese Nuthatches and singing Godlewski’s Buntings. A short mini-bus journey was required to take us to the top of Old Peak, and here we had excellent views of singing Chinese Leaf Warbler and singing and displaying Claudia’s Warblers. With time pressing we took a steady amble back down to our hotel though the impressive birch wood habitat. As well as further Chinese Leaf and Claudia’s Warblers, Hume’s Warblers were also on territory and showed particularly well. After what had been another tiring but bird-filled day, we enjoyed another superb meal, with beers of course, before retiring for the night in this splendid location.
Thursday 19th May
To make the most of our day we were out at first light, on the bus and back at Old Peak a few minutes later.
Another of our target species, White-bellied Redstart, was soon in the bag but this was then eclipsed somewhat with an awesome encounter with a male Kocklass Pheasant which actually flew across the road right under our noses! It then proceeded to show extremely well as it made its way along the ridge - an amazing sight for all the group of a notoriously shy and difficult species. With a late breakfast planned we then took another stroll down the mountain collecting birds as we went along. This was predictably more productive than yesterday, and we had great views of mountain breeders such as Grey-sided Thrush, Yellow-throated Buntings, and a male Elisae’s Flycatcher, plus more Claudia’s, Hume’s and Chinese Leaf Warblers. With two target birds remaining we departed our hotel after breakfast and headed back down to the lowlands. Enroute we tried again for Manchurian Bush Warbler which, due to the efforts of our leader, gave itself up in rather superb fashion, treating everyone to stunning views. Blunt-winged Warbler was another excellent bird to fall, too, and we also enjoyed Silver-throated Tits and heard Chinese Hill Warbler.
Later that afternoon we arrived at a strangely deserted Great Wall, where birding could be mixed with the ‘touristy’ bits. It was fairly quiet on the bird front, however, but we did see six fly-over Purple Herons, a party of Plain Laughing Thushes and a Grey-streaked Flycatcher. After our driver had skilfully negotiated the Quinhuangdao traffic we arrived back ‘home’ at the Jin Shan in time for a hot shower and more of it’s famous grub.
Friday 20th May
Our penultimate day dawned warm and overcast. Again, after learning we’d not missed too much, we concentrated our efforts towards Lighthouse Point before breakfast. A routine walk through likely habitat yielded a strange-looking Acro, which would then proceed to lead everyone on a merry dance before its identity was clinched. Extreme patience, competent field craft and sharp observation were all called upon before, piece by piece, the puzzle was solved and the skulker was identified as a Streaked Reed Warbler - an extremely rare and enigmatic bird. It would remain faithful to its chosen patch until the next day, was photographed but never gave those much-desired crippling views. After breakfast our bus driver kindly offered to take the group to bird the estuary at Shanhaigyuan. Here there was an excellent variety of waders loafing and feeding on the sand bars and lagoons, including six Terek Sandpipers, 16 Red-necked Stints, 18 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers and, best of all, a Grey-tailed Tattler which nicely rounded off our more than impressive wader list. The pools and grassland hosted 23 Eastern Yellow Wagtails, Blyth’s and Red-throated Pipits, Asian Short-toed Lark, and a Baillon’s Crake. A small copse also held three Dark-sided Flycatchers, a Rufous-tailed Robin and an Arctic Warbler. Back at Beidaihe that afternoon a very obliging Forest Wagtail posed for pics in Suzy Wong’s, where a Claudia’s Warbler was also briefly seen.
Saturday 21st May
With conditions very similar to yesterday our final efforts would again be concentrated around Beidaihe, with two of the group opting to pay another visit to the impressive Shanhaigyuan area.
The Forest Wagtail remained faithful to its favoured furrowed patch in Suzy Wong’s, where it was briefly joined by a Two-barred Greenish Warbler. The Jinshan Field attracted another male Yellow-breasted Bunting and a Grey-streaked Flycatcher, whist Eastern Crowned and Arctic Warblers were found in the Friendship Hotel. Two Red-breasted Mergansers of Lighthouse Point were yet another addition to the bumper trip list, a Chinese Song Thrush and then a fine male philippensis Blue Rock Thrush entertained there in the afternoon. A last effort at the Wetland Park produced the much-anticipated Yellow Bitterns, with four of these cracking little herons putting on delightful show for us as they immediately got down to courtship business. Two Schrenck’s Bitterns were far less cooperative, however!
Back at Beidaihe a superb passage of 500+ Pacific Swifts were logged, while the intrepid Shanhaigyuan duo recorded, among others, 150 Whimbrel, three Baillon’s Crakes, and a party of 12 Richard’s Pipits. Thanks to the ultra-effective WildWings grapevine they both enjoyed the Yellow Bitterns before dinner!
A very early trip to the airport the next morning limited us to just a couple of celebratory beers that evening, otherwise things could have been very different!
An annotated species list is also available for this tour, produced by tour leader Mark Andrews.
www.wildwings.co.uk

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