Trip Report by tour leaders David Wimpfheimer and Scot Anderson

26th March

(San Diego and the Pacific Coast)

Most of the group flew in from the UK the previous evening and were quite happy to arrive in San Diego after a lengthy weather delay at the transit airport.  The morning was overcast, but did not detract from wonderful sightings of Little Blue Heron, Cinnamon Teal and Cassin’s Kingbird amongst many other birds along the San Diego River.  Naturalist David Wimpfheimer led the optional full birding tour through a variety of habitats.  In chaparral we were treated to Roadrunner and California Thrasher.  American Avocet and Short-billed Dowitcher were in salt marsh zones while Acorn and Nuttall’s Woodpecker fed in the oak forest.  Almost one hundred species were observed.  For some the highlight may have been the Anna’s Hummingbird artfully building her nest along a cottonwood branch.

We boarded the Spirit of Adventure in the evening.  After unpacking our gear we enjoyed the dinner buffet and met fellow travellers.  David and Scot Anderson gave us an orientation and outlined aspects of the journey.  Later Captain Mike Keating explained the safety features of the boat and gave us a briefing.  Shortly after leaving the dock we motored by the bait tanks where dozens of California Sea Lions barked at each other and back at us. Dozens of Great Blue and Black-crowned Night Herons intently tried to feed from the tanks.  About a thousand Brandt’s Cormorants, an especially impressive total, stood on the tanks as well.  We went to sleep full of anticipation for the forthcoming adventure.

27th March

(Pacific Coast - Todos Santos Island)

Smooth sailing down to Ensenada allowed most folks to have a restful night’s sleep.   After clearing customs into Mexico, we left the large harbour and headed out towards Todos Santos Island. These rocky islands were bright green with new plant growth after recent storms.  We saw American and Black Oystercatchers, Peregrine Falcon, Double-crested, Brandt’s and Pelagic Cormorants.  Hundreds of Western Gulls, which nest on the island, hovered overhead.

Heading south with the swells, we saw a variety of seabirds, Sooty, Black-vented and Pink-footed Shearwaters, Northern Fulmar and a Red-necked Phalarope all seen gliding over the sea.  For some of the more keen birders a sighting of a Xantus’s Murrelet was especially noteworthy.

At about 1030, we spotted a group of three Gray Whales and then followed them up swell (north) for a while watching them spout and surface as they travelled to their feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. A small land bird came towards the boat exhausted and landed on the sea, not a good sign for it’s short-term survival!  Finally, the little guy, a Lincolns’ Sparrow, landed on the vessel itself. Scot caught it and decided that he would be best off in cabin 14 until we could release it the following day on land. Just before lunch, we had a beautiful sighting of about 200 Short-beaked Common Dolphins.

After lunch we spotted a big Ocean Sunfish or Mola mola. These strange fish seem to have no tail, and look more like a giant hubcap with fins! They like to lie on their sides at the surface, most likely to warm up in the sun and the thin layer of warmer water found there. A little further south we spotted a Black Footed Albatross gliding over the waves.   Another albatross, the Laysan, was attracted to the chum we were throwing out.

We ended the day with a sighting of a pair of Humpback Whales. It was obvious that one whale was very small compared with the other, most likely a cow-calf pair. This was a big calf and it already had some barnacles growing on its rostrum. Usually, Humpback calves are seen in the Cape region this time of year and are smaller than the one we saw. Perhaps this calf was born early.    

28th March

(Pacific Coast – San Benitos Island)

At dawn we were cruising smoothly just a few miles north of the San Benitos Islands.  The sun rose over the eastern island just as we dropped anchor on the south side of the larger, west island.

This island has been isolated form the Baja Peninsula long enough for several endemic plant species to evolve.  Amongst them we saw the San Benitos Mallow and Tarweed.  The average rainfall here is only four inches and judging from the dry conditions it appears that even that meager amount did not fall this winter. The island is riddled with seabird burrows; Cassin’s Auklets and Xantus’ Murrelet are the main occupants.  The primary reason the nesting sea birds come and go at night is to avoid predation by the large and aggressive Western Gulls.

The group walked to the south side and observed many Northern Elephant Seals. Many of the seals are here to molt, but there are still quite a few recently weaned animals that are affectionately called weaners.  All the adults have gone to sea after the breeding season ended.  Scot took half of the group on the long hike up to the lighthouse, while David took the rest though the little fishing community to the north side to look at more seals and birds. Two Peregrine Falcons were observed by both groups.  One seemed to take turns chasing and then being chased by a Raven.  Most everyone saw a wonderful Osprey nest and a few lucky ones watched the male bring in a fish for it’s mate and the chick in the nest.

After a brief rest on the Spirit we enjoyed skiff rides along the jagged, rocky edge of the island.  Here we were able to see at least fifty Guadalupe Fur Seals.  David and Scot explained that these endangered pinnipeds, which had been hunted for their extremely fine fur, have only been seen at these islands in the last few years.

We pulled the anchor and headed south.  Mike spotted a Black-footed Albatross sitting on the water and brought the boat very close before the huge bird flew off into the wind. Shortly after watching this magnificent wanderer we spotted several dolphins.  Their curved dorsal fin helped to identify them as Pacific White-sided Dolphins.  A speckled sky at dusk created the first of what promised to be many dramatic sunsets.

29th March

(Pacific Coast – San Ignacio Lagoon)

Most of us got up early before sunrise, finding fog so thick one could hardly see the ocean.  As we got closer to the entrance of the lagoon,  the fog began to break up. We started to see more and more birds including pelicans, cormorants and gulls.  Soon we saw the distinctive bushy shaped blows of Gray Whales and then the animals themselves.  The waves were breaking on either side of us as Captain Mike expertly guided the Spirit through the narrow, unmarked channel.  Most of the whales we were seeing were cow-calf pairs. Those who gathered on the bow were treated to views of Bottlenose Dolphins bow-riding.

We soon anchored off Rocky Point and our three panga drivers; Luis, Domingo and Gaby arrived in their skiffs.  We donned our rain jackets and pants to protect ourselves from spray as we set off on a new adventure.  It wasn’t long before we saw several Gray Whale calves coming close to our boats.  To be so close to these playful cetaceans was an incredible thrill.  Occasionally their mothers would come close to our boats, but the pattern was that the three to four month old calves were bolder and amazingly came close enough that we could touch them!  It is impossible to know what these whales were feeling, but we all wondered if they were enjoying us, as much as the other way around.

At lunch we all shared stories of touching whales, looking into their eyes and being so close to a species that was once hunted in this same lagoon. A complete turn around from calling these whales “Devilfish” to “Friendlys”. The photographers with digital cameras excitedly looked at their screens, reliving our amazing experiences. 

 In the afternoon we went out for more whale watching in the pangas.  It was a little bouncy all the way out to the entrance of the lagoon, but many whales surfaced and blew in the surf near us so we didn’t mind so much. The female whales all seemed to be feeding. They would dive, roll on one side and suck up a big mouthful of sand and mud. When they surfaced again we could see the tan colored sand streaming from the side of their mouth as they forced the water though their baleen plates. The whale then swallowed any small fish or invertebrates too large to pass through the baleen.

On our way back to the Spirit we saw a huge flock of Brown Pelicans and cormorants whirling  tornado-like while feeding in the surf. As we blasted by Sandpoint we could see their beautiful bright red throat pouches, a sign that they are in the breeding season. Before dinner, we relaxed and watched the sun set slowly, bringing closer to a full, wonderful day.

30^th March

(San Ignacio Lagoon – Pacific Ocean)

In the overcast morning light several whales with their calves surfaced near the ship.  The low tide exposed a large area of mud flats to the south where someone spotted two Coyotes running across the mud flats.  They both stopped abruptly and we puzzled at what they might have been chasing.  We enjoyed whale watching from the pangas for half of the morning.  Most of our energy was focused on a frisky calf that swam between our boats and lunged at our out-thrust hands.

Before lunch, we headed into the mangroves to look at the variety of birds that roost, nest and feed in this productive habitat. We had excellent views of Mangrove Warbler, White Ibis, Reddish, Snowy and Great Egrets, Green, Great Blue, Little Blue, Tricolored and Yellow-crowned Night Herons perched or wading in the shallows.  At the high tide peak, dozens of waders roosted at the edge of the salt marsh as we rode by.  Many photographs were taken of Long-billed Curlew, Marbled Godwit, Short-billed Dowitcher and Willet. We landed and stepped on to the sand at the end of our ride to look at the expansive desert that stretches miles off from the lagoon.  A distinctive Tiger Beetle crawled along the sand.  Jackrabbits and other rodents had left other tracks in the sand.

After lunch, we spent the rest of the day whale watching, and the whales were in the mood to play, we had lots of friendly cow-calf pairs.  Two pangas headed down to the opening of the lagoon and it seemed as if we could have been in the middle of the ocean.  The other group enjoyed a Gray Whale breaching and close views of the inside of the calf’s mouth.  A special experience was seeing a calf with it’s mouth opening as it responded to a boatload of Mexican school kids who laughed excitedly and sang to the whale.

Many of us returned wet from the spray and swells we had motored through, but happy at the incredible experience we had just had.  At 1630 we said good-bye to our skiff drivers, thanking them for their expertise and care in sharing this unique place.  Most of us watched excitedly as the Spirit travelled through the shallow entrance to the lagoon.  After we returned to the deeper ocean water the boat turned to the south.

31st March

(Pacific Coast – Magdalena Bay)

At daybreak the Spirit was traveling southward off Punta Lazaro. We had overcast skies with a ten-knot breeze out of the northwest. The weather gods had looked favorably upon us as we enjoyed these good travelling conditions. Captain Mike found a Leach’s Storm-Petrel hiding on the boat’s deck.  These birds are attracted to light at night and become disoriented, often landing on boats. We quickly let it go after taking a few photos.

Most of the morning we had Long-beaked Common Dolphins coming to the Spirit to bow ride. We had excellent views of Craveri’s Murrelet.  One group had a chick with them that was calling and still covered in downy fuzz.  Next, we came across a group of feeding seabirds; Black-vented, Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters, Brown Pelicans and Western Gulls, all diving on schools of fish. There was a group of California Sea Lions, which were there for the fish as well.

Not too far away a Red-billed Tropicbird was sitting on the water. These birds have stunning, long white tail feathers that they have to hold up in order to keep them out of the water. We also had our first sighting of a Brown Booby. Just before lunch we spotted a Humpback Whale, which would blow twice and dive for seven minutes.  Mike decided we could do better so we continued south.

At around 1430 we found a pair of Humpback Whales that showed their flukes while diving. Off in the distance we could see a tightly organized group of 300 to 400 Long-beaked Common Dolphins. Soon, they were all around us! We struggled to photograph them as they rolled and leaped through the swells. But, thanks to digital photography most of us got a few good shots, and we could simply delete the rest.  

At 1700 we came across another pair of Humpbacks, both were identified as males.  Male Humpbacks spend a lot of their time chasing and fighting each other while competing for females. This fighting leaves lots of white scarring on the head and back. These two whales showed their battle scars, as well as variations in pigmentation on the underside of their flukes, one was all black while the other was completely white. As Captain Mike followed the whales into a glowing sunset, a Laysan Albatross flew low over the ocean.

1st April

(Sea of Cortez – Los Frailles)

Dawn found us cruising above glassy seas south of the Cape.  As speckled reflections of the rising sun coloured the sea, the first of many Common Dolphins appeared around the boat.  Many of us gazed down from the bow, marvelling at the dolphins gliding along just a few feet below us.  In the smooth water we started to see hundreds of small glowing specks.  These copepods are called Sapphirina, as they are the color of sapphires.  Additionally, Scot and Jimmie dipped a net over and were able to catch several Beroe, a comb jelly.  Scot put the invertebrate in a small tank and we watched the animal swimming and pulsing amazing neon green, red and orange.

Numerous Thresher Sharks jumped repeatedly, one incredibly close to the boat.  It was a wonder than anyone had time to eat one of the specialties of the house, huevos rancheros, with all the activity. 

Shortly before 0800 we started following some of the many Humpbacks that frequent this area, the Gorda Bank.  Mike expertly followed a group of six to eight whales, getting us close enough to have amazing views, but not so close as to scare them.  These were mostly males that were acting quite rowdy after the mating season.  They swam quickly at the surface, one snorting as he exhaled.  Most of them raised their flukes repeatedly from the sea and many photographs were taken.

Most of us would have been satisfied with the cetacean show; however, the best was still to come.  One whale, that Scot and David told us was likely a juvenile from the previous year, started breaching.  Over the next hour it enthralled us with magnificent leaps that left huge splashes.  It also lay on its side and slapped its pectoral flippers on the surface.  Suddenly a larger whale lob-tailed and then showed us its pectoral flippers as well.  This very large whale was a female and likely the mother of the one that had been breaching continuously.  After watching these cetaceans for over three hours we motored northwards towards the gulf. So much concentrated whale watching left us a bit drained both physically and emotionally.

After lunch we watched another pair of Humpbacks.  They were a cow and calf and soon they were joined by a male.  These male escorts may travel with the pair for the whole length of their northward migration.  The calf may stay with the mother for one to two years and it was clear that this calf was on the upper end of that range.  This was one of the most animated calves that Scot and David had ever seen.  It rolled laterally almost the entire time it was at the surface.  This display wasn’t as dramatic as the breaching we had been treated to earlier, but the calf seemed so playful that several of us were ready to jump in the water with it.  To add to the playfulness of the moment, several Bottlenose Dolphins of the offshore variety swam about the calf.

At mid-afternoon we arrived at Los Frailles, a granitic headland jutting out into the Sea of Cortez.  Scot took a group snorkeling while David led another group into the lush desert for a bird walk.  The snorkelers saw Parrotfish, puffer fish and many of the other fish that the gulf is famous for.  More importantly they managed to avoid the numerous Portuguese Man of War jellyfish that were in the area.

The birding group was pleased to have excellent views of two of the endemic species found only on the Baja Peninsula, Xantus’s Hummingbird and Gray Thrasher.  Some of the other species observed included Cactus Wren, Hooded Oriole, Gila Woodpecker and Pyrrhuloxia.  We rode back to the Spirit under a half moon in the warmth of a subtropical night.  Another great dinner awaited us and we had much to celebrate.

2nd April

(Sea of Cortez – San Jose Island)

A windy morning found us approaching San Jose Island from the south.  As we dropped anchor, the early morning light bathed the many hued sandstone cliffs of Punta Colorado.  We landed on the eastern side of the island, a spectacular rocky ledge dotted with fossil scallops and other shells. 

David gave a brief overview of the geology of the Sea of Cortez islands.  Many wildflowers and shrubs were still in bloom; direct evidence of the hurricane that drenched this area with many inches of rain six months ago.  We had good views of House Finch, Costa’s Hummingbird, Verdin, Ash-throated Flycatcher and a pair of White-throated Swifts that twittered as they flew overhead. Although it was early in the morning it felt hot already.  Soon lizards started moving about, warming themselves on rocks in the arroyo.  We saw Side-blotched, Zebra-tailed and a very colorful blue tailed Western Whiptail.  A Red Diamond Rattlesnake was spotted on a ledge near the beach.  We could easily see the rattle on its tail, which it uses to warn large animals that come too close to this venomous snake.

After getting back to the Spirit the snorkellers donned their gear and plunged into the clear water. The visibility was much better than yesterday and many colorful reef fish were seen in abundance; King and Cortez Angelfish, Rainbow Wrasse, Blue and Gold Snappers, Mexican Goatfish.  Blue gorgonians festooned the rock wall.  Those who rode in the skiffs were happy as well.  The eroded sedimentary cliff faces here are some of the most picturesque of Baja. Six Magnificent Frigatebirds allowed us to approach quite closely before spreading their massive wings to take flight. Yellow-footed Gulls, almost endemic to the gulf, were observed on the rocks.

Back on board the Spirit, Dean fixed up a nice big salad as the crew loaded the skiffs.  We headed out looking for whales and dolphins.  A pair of Humpbacks was spotted, but we wanted some whales not seen already. Finally, Captain Mike found us a pair of Blue Whales! A cow calf pair, the mother was at least 75 feet long and weighed over 70 tons. Mother Blue Whales are thin this time of year.  The vertebrae that can be seen down her back will soon disappear as she gains weight after feeding all spring and summer.  The calf was much smaller and more active than the mother Blue who was feeding at depth, although, she did fluke once, a spectacular sight.

Heading north, we started to see Black Storm-Petrels flitting over the waves.  A little further on we saw the distant roundish blows of a small cetacean.  Even at some distance we could see the large rounded dorsal fins of Short-finned Pilot Whales. These whales are actually dolphins, and are found in large groups, diving and surfacing together.  We could see mothers, calves, and big bulls as they came close to the Spirit in the late afternoon light.  There were three groups that then came together, and we started to see some social behaviors like breaching, tail slapping and spy hopping. We stayed with them until sunset and then headed to our anchorage for the night.

3rd April

(Santa Catalina Island - Sea of Cortez)

The group enjoyed a calm night on the anchor at Santa Catalina Island. After breakfast we headed ashore to explore one of the most dramatic desert landscapes in the gulf.  The tall multi-branching Cardon and the endemic Giant Barrel Cactus are displayed here in a wonderful landscape.  Loggerhead Shrike, Ash–throated Flycatcher and Ladder-backed Woodpecker were just some of the birds that perched on these spiny plants.  One of the previous nature tours that visited the island earlier this year did not find any Santa Catalina Island Rattlesnakes (Rattleless Rattlesnake).  Our group was especially keen-eyed, or perhaps the snakes were being more active in this warmer season.  For whatever reason we found seven of these endemic snakes, which our naturalists told us was an all time record.

By the time we walked back down the arroyo the sand had warmed enough to energize numerous lizards that scurried ahead of us.  Most colorful was the turquoise, Santa Catalina Side-blotched Lizard. We also had brief views of the Santa Catalina Whiptail.  Both of these reptiles are endemic to the island.  The much larger and faster Desert Iguana was harder to see, but quite large and impressive.

After our desert walk a small group enjoyed snorkelling in the clear water and were rewarded with a great view of a Stone Scorpionfish.  Most everyone else enjoyed skiff rides along the rocky shoreline.  Among the birds viewed, undoubtedly the highlight  were four Wandering Tattlers.

After a delicious lunch of homemade pizza and salad we headed west towards the volcanic islands of Montserrat and Carmen.  The birders on the top deck were able to pick out a couple of Least Storm-Petrels from the more numerous Blacks.

As the Spirit headed west we picked out the blow of a whale ahead.  Mike was able to maneuver the boat to give us excellent views of a “finner” type whale.  We were able to eliminate Minke, Sei and Fin Whales by various field marks.  David and Scot told us to look for the longitudinal ridges forward of the blowhole which would positively identify it as a Bryde’s Whale.  In the bouncy seas it was hard to see the ridges, however there was no doubt of its identity! 

There was a doldrums of quiet in the mid afternoon.  A small group of squid was being chased at the surface by some gulls and predatory fish.  However, the bigger event was a few miles to the south.

From a distance we saw many birds diving into the water and the splashing of dolphins below.  As we glided closer we began to see hundreds of pelicans diving from above on baitfish, mostly anchovies.  Joining the feeding frenzy were gulls, terns, boobies and of course frigatebirds to chase down anything they could.  About a dozen Elegant Terns joined the feeding frenzy, making their presence known by their high screeching call.

We left the feeding activity for a bit, but then returned because the number of birds had multiplied several times.  Until sunset we were enthralled by the spectacle of hundreds of birds feeding, wheeling over each other, chasing and being chased.  Over twenty Magnificent Frigatebirds hovered near or over the boat.  It was hard not to be impressed with the size and demeanor of these huge birds that behave like skuas.  The photographers especially enjoyed photographing the huge birds as they floated overhead with the luminous half-moon in the background.

The birds thinned out, but a few dolphins swam by the boat, and the setting sun behind the mountainous skyline created the kind of scene Baja is famous for.  We anchored for the night below dark, volcanic cliffs.

4th April

(Sea of Cortez – San Jose Channel)

We enjoyed a tranquil anchorage south of Agua Verde, even though the wind had picked up and we had to reset the anchor a few times.  Captain Mike headed out before daybreak looking for whales.  We came across a large group of Long-beaked Common Dolphin rolling and surfacing in the early morning light.  Heading south we started to see many Least and Black Storm-Petrels flying just above the waves.  Next, we spotted two different Red-billed Tropicbirds.  One was flying high above the water and suddenly dove on a fish.  The second one was sitting on the water, allowing us to get very close before it flew, showing its beautiful long streaming tail feathers.

We made it all the way down to the San Jose channel before we spotted a new cetacean species, the Dwarf Sperm Whale. These little known whales are hard to spot unless the surface is glassy calm.  Even in the best of circumstances, they are still hard to see.  There were a total of four seen.  Two together were right in front of the boat and everyone had good views before they disappeared below the surface.   

The smooth seas became rippled and then choppy so we decided to stop for a quick snorkel and skiff rides near a small village called Nopolo.  After lunch we went ashore as David led us on a walk looking for birds.  The air was still and hot, so we moved slowly, stopping to rest and enjoy the birds in the shade of the trees. In spite of the heat we had good views of Black-throated Gray Warbler, gnatcatchers, Phainopepla and many other birds.  We heard the iconic song of the Canyon Wren, but views of these skilled songsters alluded us.

Back on board the Spirit we headed south searching for whales.  We came around the southeast side of San Francisco Island, a favorite anchorage for sailboats.  Heading east, we spotted a group Common Dolphin and two large baleen whales.  The sun was setting and the light fading, but we did manage to determine that one of these big whales was a Fin Whale. Fin Whales are dark brown in color with a light patch on their backs called a chevron.  The fin is usually large and falcate, but this one was damaged or cut off, missing about a third.  The last field mark that identifies a Fin is that the jaw on the right side is white, instead of uniform brown like the left.  So, although it was not fully grown, it was a Fin Whale.  They can reach 70 feet in length and is the second largest whale next to the Blue.  We had dinner as we headed to the south end of San Jose Island to anchor for the night.

5th April

(Sea of Cortez – Espiritu Santu Island)

From our anchorage we departed around 0600.  Several large grey clouds and a few white caps on the swells suggested the North Atlantic.  However, a huge herd of Common Dolphins quickly dispelled any such notions.  For over half an hour the Captain kept us near hundreds of the animals as they jumped off and through the swells.  Although the dolphins rode our bow wake a bit, mostly they charged through the swells, whipping the water into froth and sending the photographers, most of us, into frenzy.

There was just enough time to finish one’s waffle breakfast before the cry of “Blue Whale” was heard.  Soon both decks were occupied as we followed a mother and calf.  Their moderately curving dorsal fins helped us determine that these were different whales than the pair we had seen a few days before.

The seas were choppy and we had to continue to the south.  It wasn’t long before David and Scot yelled out “Long-tailed Skua.”  Those of us on the bow were able to watch this striking bird from the far north fly by and land on the water.  The bird it landed near was a Sabine’s Gull, another Arctic breeder.  It was noted by some that all this had occurred before 0810.

Some have suggested that the rocky islet, Los Islotes, at the north end of Espiritu Santu Island, is so picturesque that it almost looks like a Hollywood set.  The volcanic crags make the perfect roosting and nesting site for hundreds of Brown and Blue-footed Boobies.  Smaller numbers of pelicans and frigatebirds hovered about.  On our skiff rides we were able to photograph the boobies very well.  Steve, one of our sharp-eyed boatmen, picked out a Masked Booby. Having all three species together at once was a sight that can’t be duplicated in many places.

We were able to get close to snorting and cavorting California Sea Lions.  Some barked back at us, displaying their prominent canine teeth.  Others lay on the nearby rocks, barely moving a muscle.  Sally Lighfoot Crabs and a few waders including Black Turnstone and Wandering Tattler scampered over the barnacle encrusted rocks.

Many of us soon had exceptionally close views of the sea lions after donning swim and snorkeling gear.  Los Islotes is famous for its friendly pinnipeds that clearly enjoyed swimming up to us, blowing bubbles and acting as excited to see us as the other way around.  One sea lion lay at the surface, it’s eyes closed as if sleeping, while most of our group floated near it, resisting the urge to reach out and stroke it’s dense fur. The small, young seals swam toward us and then with a few ballet like strokes jetted off to deeper water.  One or two large males swam by us giving us a very different feeling.  Besides the sea lions the huge schools of Sergeant Majors and Pacific Creole fish were quite wonderful. 

After lunch we headed south along the eastern side of the dramatic island.  The many hued browns and reds gave hint of a turbulent volcanic history, but the geologic story was interrupted by another cetacean show.  The tall blow, black color and curving fins identified these as Fin Whales.  A mother and calf, the first that Scot and David had ever seen were close by.  The calf literally swam below the front of the boat, giving those on the bow an amazing view.  The rolling seas made the viewing conditions challenging, but it was still an unforgettable experience.

The Spirit cruised on through the rolling seas.  Although a few seabirds were picked out by the birders, there were a few hours without any whales or dolphins.  Towards the west a huge splashing ended that period of calm.  A Humpback Whale and its calf were breaching.  We motored closer with everyone on the bow and upper deck.  Both of them breached again, a rare double breach!  There were three more breaches by the huge mother that many of us were able to get at least some photographs of.  A speckled sunset glowed behind the jagged mountains of the peninsula while the bright moon glowed overhead.  This was an amazing end of the day and a culmination to a great trip.

A prime rib dinner was the last of many wonderful meals we enjoyed on the Spirit of Adventure.  We toasted the day’s great adventures and the remarkable journey that would soon come to an end.

6th April

(Cabo San Lucas – homeward bound)

We enjoyed calm seas at sunrise on our last morning on the boat.  The wonderfully diverse Baja Peninsula comes to a dramatic point at a series of granitic spires that we slipped by.  Two large cruise ships in the Cabo San Lucas harbor served as a reminder that we had experienced this special area in a unique way that few others do.  Our visit to this busy harbour was brief and soon we were on our way to the airport and flights home.  However, the memories of so many whales, birds and other animals will linger on for a long time.

Cetacean and marine mammal species list

Blue Whale

Fin Whale

Bryde’s Whale

Humpback Whale

Gray Whale

Dwarf Sperm Whale

Short-finned Pilot Whale

Common Dolphin (long and short-beaked)

Pacific White-sided Dolphin

Bottlenose Dolphin

California Sea Lion

Northern Elephant Seal

Guadalupe Fur Seal                                              

www.wildwings.co.uk