This trip made a huge impression on all of us and contained the best whale and dolphin encounters we had ever had, anywhere in the world. We saw an incredible total of 13 different species of cetaceans with more than 300 whale sightings and well over 6000 dolphin sightings. Perhaps the most remarkable feature was the amazing array of behaviours that we observed. This included Gray Whale cows and calves inches from our skiffs, rubbing their bodies against our small boats, spyhopping, breaching and even allowing us to touch them. We had Blue Whales lunge feeding just in front of our bows. Pacific White-sided, Common and Bottlenose Dolphins would frequently come in to bow ride, wake ride and perform amazing acrobatic manoeuvres around us. Humpbacks repeatedly breached a few metres away and continued with a varied repertoire of thundering crashes as the flipper slapping alternated with lobtailing. We also had fantastic views of the characteristically skittish Bryde’s Whales. It was wonderful to watch them feeding on bubbling shoals of small fish. We saw small groups of the elusive Dwarf Sperm Whale, and had unexpected encounters with Dall’s Porpoise and Risso’s Dolphins. It was reassuring to see so many cetaceans with calves, including several newly born Common Dolphins and Pilot Whales. Thanks to our fantastic skipper (Mike) and his crew, this stunning corner of the planet yet again yielded the best whale watching possible, which the lucky participants and staff will never forget.

Day 1 (Friday 28 March)

Pacific Coast - San Diego

We boarded the Spirit of Adventure at San Diego harbour and after a warm welcome by the crew we enjoyed the buffet and met fellow travellers. We sailed out of our berth in the early hours of the morning heading for Mexico, the open sea and forthcoming adventures.

Day 2 (Saturday 29 March)

Pacific Coast - Todos Santos Island

It was a beautiful dawn and the early risers were treated to a display of around 700 Long-beaked Common Dolphins. Black-vented and Pink-footed Shearwaters wheeled over the waves as our cook Dan, served up the first magnificent breakfast. We encountered the first groups of the ubiquitous Brown Pelicans, Western Gulls and three distant whale blows. What a wonderful start, to a promising trip, and a great birthday morning for Colin. Having travelled south all night along the Pacific coast of Baja, we soon arrived at the port of Ensenada to clear customs and immigration.

Here, while doing a spot of birdwatching, we encountered our first Harbour Seals and watched inquisitive California Sealions frolicking in the calm harbour waters. We had great views of a Belted Kingfisher, and the rafts of Surf Scoters. Other birds sat obligingly side by side for comparison and we soon became familiar with Clarke’s and Western Grebes, Brandt’s and Double Crested Cormorants, and California and Western Gulls. The muddy shoreline provided an opportunity to get to grips with a host of shorebirds, Snowy Egrets, Great Blue Heron, American Black Oystercatcher and Hudsonian Whimbrels. Overhead we were accompanied by the calls of Royal and Forster’s Terns.

Just off the mist shrouded Todos Santos Island we spotted two Blue Whales. Excitement mounted, for many it was the first sighting of a whale, let alone a Blue! Cameras whirred and the smell of success mingled with that of the forthcoming lunch. The wildlife however, did not conform to our culinary intervals and food was soon interrupted, by a huge Ocean Sunfish (Mola mola), it’s silvery laterally compressed body, gracefully floating eye up, the triangular dorsal fin breaking the surface intermittently. Three hundred or so Long-beaked Common Dolphins soon joined us, and Mike, our Captain, expertly manoeuvred the Spirit of Adventure, allowing the dolphins to bow ride the advancing pressure wave. Hanging over the sides we could make eye to eye contact and we could clearly hear the constant whistles of communication. The hull amplified these further and it was an amazing experience to listen to this constant conversation under the water in the cabins below. The hourglass markings, shape and colouration of the beak, and subtleties of the complex creamy yellow, white, and grey markings on the flanks, enabled us to make comparisons with the Short-beaked Common Dolphins that some of us were more familiar with around the UK shores.

Scot Anderson (my co-leader) throwing bread over the side of the boat, would soon become a familiar sight, and on this first occasion it provided wonderful opportunities for photographing Heermann’s Gulls as they swooped down for the easy pickings. Throughout the afternoon we encountered Cassin’s Auklets, Bonaparte’s Gulls, and we also spotted a second year Ring-billed Gull, plus Pacific and Great Northern Divers.

We were pleased to see our first Xantu’s and Craveri’s Murrelets in the late afternoon, they were so close to the boat that the distinguishing markings of the underwings could be seen as they flew off.

There were scatterings of Black-necked Grebes, and above them Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters sheared the waves. We had more sightings of Ocean Sunfish and another large pod of Common Dolphins were seen, but the highlight of the afternoon were the eight Dall’s Porpoises that came in briefly to bow ride with us. These spectacular cetaceans are small, robust and extremely fast. The striking black and white markings and characteristic ‘rooster tails’ of spray were clearly apparent as they shot through the water like monochromatic torpedoes. Subject to predation by Orcas, their agility and speed are a clear advantage. They were at the southern most tip of their range and this was an exciting addition to the ‘WildOceans’ Baja cetacean list. We cruised on southwards towards the San Benitos Islands.

Pacific Coast - San Benitos Islands

A trail of Western, California and Heermann’s Gulls followed us in response to Scot’s bread throwing. The plan had worked and soon we pulled in an impressive Black-footed Albatross that dwarfed its counterparts. Grey Phalaropes and Sooty Shearwaters were seen among the omnipresent Black-vented Shearwaters. On the approach to the San Benitos Islands a massive Blue Whale surfaced just by the bow, our sonar revealed that it had been checking us out for some time. We had superb views and saw the whole body outline under the water. A beautiful pale aquamarine 80-90ft shape hung in the water, it proved to be quite an emotional moment for many. This was soon followed by a pod of eight Risso’s Dolphins, including a calf. We noted the diagnostic tall, erect, dorsal fins, and blunt heads of these bold, strong, and very robust animals. Older individuals were almost white as a result of the extensive scarring. Mike did a great job not to spook them and we had some great views.

Arriving at San Benitos Islands we quickly went ashore on Western Island. The cacti and succulents were stunning, particularly the Agaves with their huge intense yellow flowering heads. The Mallows and Mammilaria cacti were also in flower. Many of the plants we saw were endemic, not only to Baja, but to individual islands.

The large Northern Elephant Seal colonies provided quite a spectacle and a constant background noise to our leisurely walk. The females and pups kept a distance from the numerous boisterous juvenile males that were testing their territorial skills. We took advantage of the wonderful photographic opportunities afforded by the pups, as they practised their aquatic skills in their ‘junior pool’, a haven of interconnected sheltered rock pools. The local villagers were busy in one bay collecting the enormous Humbolt Squid that had been washed up, others lost no time and were already using them for fishing bait.

We were very lucky to meet one of the local Cassin’s Auklet researchers and were given a brief talk about his work. The auklet burrows were scattered throughout the island and the characteristic white-sprayed entrances signalled occupancy and a reminder to keep our distance. We had amazing views of Ospreys feeding over the ocean and some were seen on huge twiggy nests, perched precariously on rocky outcrops. Red-tailed Hawks, Ravens and an American Kestrel soared overhead, taking advantage of the thermals created by the scattered volcanic peaks. The activity continued around us as we stopped for our picnic lunch overlooking the Northern Elephant Seal colony. Savannah Sparrows flitted constantly between the cacti, and between mouthfuls of sandwich we watched the numerous waders darting between the rocks of the shoreline below us. These included American Black and American Oystercatchers, Grey Plovers Willets, Whimbrels, and Black Turnstones. Some of the Double-crested Cormorants had white plumed crests and behind them the Black Brandts bobbed around on the open sea. Before returning to the village to meet our skiffs we watched eight resident Bottlenose Dolphins (the inshore form), just a few metres away from us in the bay.

In the late afternoon we encountered some Pacific White-sided Dolphins, their two toned dorsal fins and wonderful light grey and black markings were a real delight for photographers, but presented quite a challenge to capture on film! We were heading for a small colony of the rare and endangered Guadalupe Fur Seal, the current breeding range of which is limited almost exclusively to Guadalupe Island off the coast of Baja. We soon found our prize hauled out on one of the San Benitos shady, rocky beaches. Smaller and darker than the California Sealions, their pointed snouts and protruding external ears resulted in rather a comical appearance. Heading south towards San Ignacio Lagoon, past pockets of Cassin’s Auklets, we watched the sun set on the watery horizon, avidly awaiting the much discussed, and by this stage, highly controversial ‘Green Flash’. We ended our day with a slide show with information about Gray Whale biology in anticipation of things to come.

Pacific Coast - San Ignacio Lagoon

Six Pacific White-sided Dolphins, greeted the early risers and the calm water was tinged red by the thousands of tiny Red Pelagic Crabs. Black-vented Shearwaters and Western Gulls were present in their thousands as they congregated in huge mixed feeding flocks. The offshore winds had carried two beautiful White-lined Sphinx Moths onto the boat, or perhaps it was the enticing smell of Dan’s breakfast pancakes? As we approached San Ignacio Lagoon we passed Common and Pacific White-sided Dolphins, a Green Turtle, numerous Surf Scoters, Xantu’s and Craveri’s Murrelets, Cassin’s Auklets, three species of diver and our first Magnificent Frigatebirds. Our excitement mounted when we spotted our first Gray Whale, quickly the numbers swelled to eight cow calf pairs. There, behind extensive sandbars nestled the lagoon itself and we were able to see numerous blows and tail flukes in the protected waters. The excitement intensified, as we had closer views of whales leaving the lagoon, heading north to their feeding grounds.

The male Gray Whales together with some females were migrating along the Pacific coast to their feeding grounds thousands of miles to the north. The calves having been born early in the winter, were now just a few months old. However, by March/April time they have grown strong enough to accompany their mothers on the long journey northwards. The cows don’t generally feed while in the breeding grounds, so by April it’s certainly time to replenish their reserves. Once through the shallows and sandbanks at the entrance to the lagoon, we could clearly see the blows, tail flukes and barnacled backs of our quarry. Soon we joined our local Mexican ‘panga’ drivers in their small boats. We would wait patiently afloat for the whales to approach us, never harassing the animals and each time we had remarkable encounters. The panga drivers were clearly an example of very good practice. The young Gray Whales seemed so inquisitive, they rubbed their heads and bodies along the sides of our pangas, and we obligingly scratched their skin. Their mothers frequently as close, seemed immense as they lay in the water underneath us, their 40-50ft bodies appearing at either end of our small pangas. From time to time some animals would open their massive jaws to reveal the feathery baleen inside, others would ‘spy hop’, lifting their enormous heads vertically just a few feet away from us. Gazing into the eyes of these beautiful animals you seemed to make a momentary connection, an incredible and very moving experience. In fact, for all of us our close encounters were probably amongst the most memorable and extraordinary experiences of our lives.

We spent the rest of the day, enjoying the Gray Whales and resident Bottlenose Dolphins at close quarters. There were plenty of raucous calls from the Royal Terns overhead, and Western Grebes and the immaculate Great Northern Divers in full breeding plumage, provided additional camera fodder as they bobbed around on the calm water. As the sun set over the shores of the lagoon, the clouds of waders settled and soon only the blows of the Gray Whales punctuated the silence.

Day 5 (Tuesday 1 April)

Pacific Coast - San Ignacio Lagoon

The lagoon supports a huge diversity of wildlife and some of the group made an early start this morning heading into the mangroves in search of birds. We were soon rewarded with White Ibis, Reddish Egret, Tricoloured Heron, Green Heron, Black-crowned and Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Great Blue Heron, Little Blue Heron, Great and Snowy Egrets, and Double Crested Cormorant, all feeding in the nutrient rich lagoons. Mangrove Warblers heralded their presence by their prominent calls and brilliant yellow plumage, but unless on the move they seemed to merge into the lush foliage of the mangroves. Waders included Snowy Plover, Long-billed Curlew, Marbled Godwit, Willet, Pectoral and Solitary Sandpipers, Greater Yellowlegs, and hundreds of peeps. Some of the group were also lucky enough to see a Clapper Rail among the roots of the mangroves. Caspian, Royal and Elegant Terns would intermittently plunge dive for fish, taking advantage of the plentiful food supply. Those who had stayed behind on the boat had been watching cow-calf pairs playing continually in the waters around them, just a few feet away. We returned again to the Gray Whales, who quickly approached the pangas and played with us for most of the morning. We had estimated a total of forty animals in the section of the lagoon in which we had anchored. After lunch, Mexican style, some went for a stroll on the beach; others went birdwatching, while the rest opted for more whale watching. Some of the highlights on shore included the lone Coyote strolling effortlessly across the sand, the Gray Whale skeleton, and the opportunity to photograph some of the smaller waders. We left the lagoon just before dark, carefully picking our way through the numerous Gray Whales as we headed once more for the open sea.

Pacific Coast - Magdalena Bay

Small groups of Common Dolphins broke the glassy surface of the water in the early morning half- light, and we continued to see scattered groups throughout the day. Just after breakfast, a pod of about 50 Common Dolphins ahead of us suddenly formed a discreet line across our bow and with the speed and precision of a military manoeuvre, headed away from us at ‘full steam’. The communication and co-ordination required for this synchronised action was impressive. We had some excellent views of six Blue Whales just off Magdalena Bay, including one animal that raised it’s enormous tail flukes on diving. The huge body outlines of these magnificent animals were wholly visible under the clear water, and their characteristically mottled skin had an almost metallic appearance in the early morning light. We were really excited to see one enormous animal just off the bows, the largest individual anyone had ever seen and certainly as long as our vessel which was 88ft!

The Humpbacks also put up an extraordinary display. An adult and a calf set the scene, followed by several displaying adults. One individual lobtailed forty times in succession, producing a thundering crack as the tail flukes slammed onto the water surface. The display continued with half body breaches, body rotations accompanied by intermittent sideways swishes of the tail. At one point the animal was lying on it’s back while continuing to lobtail. Later we spotted two Bryde’s Whales; their characteristically skittish behaviour made it difficult to decipher the three diagnostic ridges on the head, a key to confident identification. It was sad to see such a small Blue Shark caught on a bait line, but the stunning 6ft Marlin lifted the spirits, the beautiful purple sail of it’s modified dorsal fin triggered the whirring of a myriad of cameras.

We saw our first Black Storm Petrels, and Sabine’s Gulls this morning, and had superb views of two Pomarine Skuas as they circled the boat. We sailed by small rafts of Red-necked and Grey Phalaropes throughout the day and Scot’s bread throwing enticed another Black-footed Albatross towards the resulting gull feeding frenzy.

Day 7 (Thursday 3 April)

Sea of Cortez - Los Frailes

It was a beautiful dawn and by 5.00am we had rounded Cabo San Lucas and our first Townsend’s Shearwaters and a Brown Booby provided an excellent start to the day. We were soon sailing into the warm, nutrient rich waters of the Sea of Cortez. These nutrients are supplied as a result of upwelling currents from deep submarine canyons, in turn they support an immense and varied ecosystem. It was here that the transition from cold water to tropical water species began.

A large group of Manta Rays were spotted leaping out of the water just offshore, beyond Cabo and during the morning a total of seven Dwarf Sperm Whales were seen, these elusive animals floated on the calm water like upturned surfboards. Not a bad start it seemed to our tropical adventure.

One of the highlights today were the large group of Short-finned Pilot Whales, a wonderful mixed group of large adult males with their broad dorsal fins, females, juveniles and a calf, about 45 animals in total. Females and young animals seemed to be in one group and males in the other. The animals were flipper slapping, lobtailing and displaying a variety of what was probably, courtship and territorial behaviour. Animals in the throes of mating and copulation subsequently surrounded us. As we turned off the engine and lowered the hydrophone we could hear the clicking and calls of the animals that had approached the boat. We could even hear some of these calls without the hydrophone as the pod swam in towards us and surrounded the vessel. Crystal clear blue water, enabled us to see their body outlines, the pale saddles just behind the dorsal fin gleamed in the perfect conditions.

Today was certainly the day of the Humpbacks. Mike found a large scattered group of about 19 animals and we had the most amazing time watching them tail fluking, flipper slapping and breaching. Adrenaline ran high and vast amounts of film were consumed as we became transfixed by animals repeatedly launching their 30 tonnes of flesh into the air, creating a tidal wave of white water as they crashed down again with a thunderous crack. At one stage a group of displaying animals were surrounded by 100 Bottlenose Dolphin- it was hard to know in which direction to look first!

Throughout the day we were surrounded by several small groups of Common Dolphins, many of them with calves. The dolphins frequently came in to bow ride, enticing photographers to fire off that perfect shot. Some animals had Remoras (Suckerfish) attached to them. These parasites have a modified dorsal fin that acts like a perfect sucker, allowing the Remoras to hitch a ride on the dolphins and access food supplies. We also had a large group of offshore Bottlenose Dolphins that came in to bow ride. Only at close quarters do you begin to appreciate the size and power of these very robust animals. A few of us spotted a couple of sea turtles, and some California Flying Fish, and most saw the beautiful Striped Marlin and a Blue Shark. Bird sightings at sea included more Townsend’s Shearwaters, Pink-footed and Black-vented Shearwaters, lots of Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown Pelicans, Black Storm Petrels, California, Heermann’s and Western Gulls, Royal and Elegant Terns, Craveri’s Murrelets and a lone Arctic Skua.

Later, at the beautiful sheltered bay of Los Frailes we went snorkelling, beach combing and birdwatching. We saw a stunning collection of brightly coloured fish, wonderful shells and some fascinating skeletons belonging to a host of marine creatures. Scot seemed to be particularly absorbed by the collection of dead and very desiccated debris on the shoreline and effortlessly identified the origin of each dilapidated specimen. Land bird sightings were equally impressive and included Crested Caracara, Gilia Woodpecker, Green-tailed Towhee, Northern Mockingbird, Northern Cardinal, Cactus Wren on the nest, the exotic looking Hooded and Scott’s Orioles, Lark Sparrows, Turkey Vultures patrolling the shores, and a couple of Ospreys. We also had our first sighting of two of the much-prized Baja endemics, the bizarre looking Grey Thrasher with its large decurved bill and pale orange eye and the stunning little Xantus’ Hummingbird. This was our first walk in the lower Baja desert, the bird life was colourful and varied, Black-tailed Jackrabbits and the odd ground squirrel scampered amongst the vegetation, but nothing rivalled the amazing and quite unique plant diversity.

Day 8 (Friday 4 April)

Sea of Cortez - San Jose Island

Cruising towards San Jose we awoke to another sunny morning. The red strata on the surrounding cliffs provided a wonderful contrast to the crystal clear aquamarine sea. We stopped at a guano covered rocky island and had fantastic views of Blue-footed Boobies, Brown Boobies, Yellow-legged Gulls and Magnificent Frigatebirds, the males sporting their bright red gular pouches. The iridescent black feathers of the Brandts Cormorants glinted in the sunlight, and some of the Brown Pelicans were in breeding plumage displaying maroon red gular pouches. Soaring above us were a couple of Ravens and a lone Turkey Vulture, while below us Sally Lightfoot Crabs clung on to rocks just above the water line.

Skiff rides into the mangroves on the south side of San Jose Island yielded more avian delights. These included, Xantus’ Hummingbird, Black Vulture, Semi-palmated Plover, Ruddy Turnstone, Black Turnstone, Western Sandpiper, and some more very obliging Mangrove Warblers.

On land we spotted a Silver Argiope Spider with strange zigzag supporting cross struts to its web. There were a variety of skinks and lizards and even one snake. The Mexican Dancer (a sea slug) was very colourful, the green body colour being due to the presence of symbiotic chloroplasts in its tissues. A stroll into the desert produced an interesting collection of birds including our first Northern Rough-winged Swallows and Ash-throated Flycatchers. Loggerhead Shrikes were hard to miss, and were often perched on the equally prominent Ocotillo bushes adorned with flowers of flaming vermilion. California and Blue-grey Gnatcatchers flitted from bush to bush, while Ladder-backed Woodpeckers and Gila Woodpeckers perched on top of the huge Cardon cacti. We also saw Northern Cardinal, Verdin, Grey Thrasher, Northern Mockingbird, White-winged Dove, Red-tailed Hawk, Osprey, and the much prized Xantus’ Hummingbird.

At lunchtime Mike turned the boat around when he spotted a Red-billed Tropicbird sitting on the water. We had a lovely view of this stunning bird and many of the photographers managed a good record shot. Also at sea today we had good numbers of Craveri’s Murrelets, Least and Black Storm Petrels, a few Townsend’s Shearwaters, Bonaparte’s Gulls and a couple of Arctic Skuas. We spotted a lone Sabine’s Gull, it’s buoyant flight and characteristic black and white markings on the upper wing were even more obvious in the perfect light. After lunch the sea exploded with dolphins in every direction as well over a thousand Common Dolphins surrounded our vessel. We watched the antics of another three Bryde’s Whales, followed by a nearby pod of 50 Pilot Whales.

We saw two more sizeable pods of Pilot Whales. In the second pod we spotted a tiny calf, the smallest we had seen, and we guessed it could only have been a few days old. We smiled as it launched its whole body out of the water each time it needed to take a breath, a steep learning curve clearly ahead of it in order to perfect this technique. In the late afternoon we headed towards several whale blows and a cacophony of frenzied feeding. Amongst the flocks of gulls, pelicans and terns were dive bombing the water for the easy pickings. There, in the midst of this activity, were three enormous Blue Whales and a calf. We cut the engines and as the sun began to set we continued to watch the now lunge feeding Blue Whales right in front of our bows. The whales soon became silhouetted in front of the bow with the jagged mountains of Baja and a beautiful deep orange sunset providing the perfect backdrop. The creamy white throat pleats of the Blue Whales had turned pink, and glistened in the red glow of the evening sun. The massive blows were back lit and very prominent against the skyline. We continued watching in the moonlight, and as the temperature dropped the blows became more audible. A perfect end to a perfect day.

Scot gave a talk about toothed whales, which complimented my earlier talk about baleen whales. We settled down to another of Dan’s incredible feasts, all of us now beginning to experience the grip of our tightening waistbands.

Day 9 (Saturday 5 April)

Sea of Cortez - Santa Catalina Island

As the sun rose above Catalina Island the moon was still just visible, and the cacti were glowing a vivid green in the early morning light. This was a fascinating island with some extraordinary and very rare plants. Some of the spectacular Cardon cacti are over 200 years old and towered up to 40 feet above us. They provided great feeding stations for birds and we watched several species feeding on the nectar and pollen within the large, white waxy flowers. Many of us had excellent views of Loggerhead Shrike, Northern Cardinal and Gila Woodpeckers as they perched like sentinels on top of the cacti. Several people went snorkelling and skiff rides yielded more marine life around the rocky coves. Wonderful sandstone rocks infused with thick bands of copper rich ores provided nesting sites and perches for a variety of birds. At their base Spotted Sandpipers scuttled around the huge boulders and Black-necked Grebes cast a perfect reflection as they floated effortlessly on the glassy surface of the surrounding water. Colonies of California Sealions and Brown Pelicans were present further round the bay and several sealions swam towards us to investigate.

Before we set off for more whale watching, tostadas with lashings of guacamole and sour cream provided the perfect Mexican style lunch. The afternoon began with some great views of Manta Rays in the clear water and several pods of Bottlenose Dolphins plus a few Common Dolphins. Some of the Bottlenose Dolphins were wake riding and breaching several feet into the air. We spotted two Hammerhead Sharks, an Ocean Sunfish and more Remoras on the flanks of dolphins.

We spent the rest of the day watching Blue Whales. We were so lucky to have great views of four animals and we saw some amazing lunge feeding in daylight. We stayed with a cow calf pair into the late afternoon. The female put on a spectacular show of lunge feeding revealing the many pleats or grooves on her throat that expanded and contracted like a concertina to hold vast quantities of food-laden water. This clever and very efficient system allows the largest animal in the world to feed on one of the smallest. As the light faded, we had an amazing encounter as she lunge fed inches off the bow. Her enormous head reared out of the water to gulp the ball of swirling krill, her throat grooves and baleen all clearly visible and the pectoral flipper flailed around as the animal rotated in the water. We had seen ten very active Blue Whales today, so all in all not a bad day!

The bird list was equally impressive, some of the highlights included our first White-throated Swifts, Costa’s Hummingbird, Belted Kingfisher, Ash-throated Flycatcher, Green-tailed Towhee and Black-throated Sparrow.

Day 10 (Sunday 6 April)

Sea of Cortez - Nopolo, Los Islotes

We had an early morning walk in the small fishing settlement at Nepolo. The bird life was amazing and included our best views yet of Xantus' and Costa’s Hummingbirds. Other birds included the only Phainopeplas, Black Phoebe and Grey Flycatcher of the trip. Another of the highlights was the wonderful view of Canyon Wrens hopping amongst the large boulders at the base of the canyon wall.

We also saw Scott’s and Hooded Orioles, Verdins, Blue-grey Gnatcatchers, Northern Cardinals, Pacific-slope Flycatcher, Ash-throated Flycatcher, Western Scrub Jay, White-winged Dove, Mourning Dove, Common Ground Dove, Belted Kingfisher, Gila Woodpecker and Ladder-backed Woodpecker.

After lunch we sailed towards Los Islotes and encountered a pod of over a thousand Common Dolphins and good numbers of Bottlenose Dolphins. The birds of note included Least Storm Petrels, a Townsend’s Shearwater and a large raft of about 200 Black-necked Grebes. The rocky outcrop of Los Islotes provided the ideal rookery for a host of seabirds and California Sealions. Some of the group took the opportunity to snorkel with the sealions. The young inquisitive animals swim inches away from you. It’s only when you enter their underwater world that you begin to appreciate the sheer grace and agility of these charismatic animals. From the skiffs we were also treated to fantastic views of the sealions, as well as Brown and Blue-footed Boobies, Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brandt’s Cormorants. On our departure we sailed past the neighbouring Island of Espiritu Santu. The sun set on another wonderful day and we found it hard to believe that we only had one full day left at sea.

Day11 (Monday 7 April)

Sea of Cortez - Los Frailes

We awoke to yet another spectacular sunrise and glowing pink and orange sandstone cliffs of the Baja coastline. The early risers were treated to a magnificent Black-footed Albatross and then four Humpback Whales interrupted breakfast. We then spotted a Buller’s Shearwater, a long way from it’s breeding home in New Zealand, it’s striking boldly marked upper wings immediately identified it as something very different.

Today’s cetacean highlight was another encounter with the energetic Humpbacks that we had seen earlier in the trip. They provided us with an incredible finale, in fact one animal repeatedly breached at least sixteen times just in front of the bow. Another pair of Humpbacks swam under and around the boat for at least 15 minutes, as if they were checking us out. Their whole body outlines were very visible in the clear water and from the depths, the white underside of the flippers shone out like beacons. We peered down onto the rounded protuberances (or tubercles) on top of their heads, and on occasions made eye to eye contact. A few minutes later we spotted a mother and calf swimming in parallel and surfacing and blowing in perfect synchrony. What incredible views we had had. Eventually we managed to tear ourselves away and we sailed towards Los Frailes for some more swimming, snorkelling, and birdwatching.

The sea bird list today did not disappoint and included some of the colder water species that we had seen at the beginning of the trip. Our sightings included the familiar leisurely flight of the Pink-footed Shearwater, also Sooty, Black-vented and Townsend’s Shearwaters, Black and Least Storm Petrel, Brown Booby, Magnificent Frigatebird, Brown Pelican, Bonaparte’s, Heermann’s and California Gulls plus Black-legged Kittiwake.

On the beach at Los Frailes, immature pelicans surrounded the local fishermen, begging for scraps as the men cleaned and prepared their catch. The snorkellers had some fantastic encounters with a huge variety of fish and produced a very healthy species list. The bird watchers were equally pleased with some excellent views of Greater Roadrunner as it caught, killed and consumed a snake. We saw plenty of California Quail and had superb views of Cactus Wren, Xantu’s Hummingbird and Grey Thrasher. New birds included Orange-crowned Warbler and Pyrrhuloxia, and soaring overhead were a Crested Caracara and an American Kestrel whilst several Turkey Vultures patrolled the shoreline.

We returned to the Spirit of Adventure with the call of Margaritas on the deck. It was John’s birthday and Dean (Dan’s assistant) had iced an enormous cake with a stunning image of a Xantu’s Hummingbird. The Margaritas put everyone in a party mood and the late afternoon ended with a flurry of Egyptian dancing.

Day 12 (Tuesday 8 April)

Cabo San Lucas

We enjoyed the wealth of bird life on route to Cabo San Lucas. The group seemed rather subdued as the group photos and goodbyes to the crew confirmed the end to our adventure. The excellent visibility for our return flight over the Sea of Cortez allowed us to view the island-studded sea below. We were able to retrace our voyage over the last few days as San Jose, Catalina and Los Islotes were all clearly visible in the aquamarine water below us. At Los Angeles airport we said our final farewells as we separated for our journey home.

For many of us this was the best wildlife experience we had ever had anywhere in the world, and I hope this summary will bring back some of the many highlights. It is a great privilege to visit and experience the fantastic diversity of marine life, plants and birds that inhabit this remote, unspoilt and very beautiful corner of the world. Long may it remain so.

Caroline Still June 2003