Antarctica, the Falklands and South Georgia  2008

Antarctica, The Falklands and South Georgia 2008

Trip Report by Dick Filby, Tour Leader

Another excellent trip to The Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica with an extremely convivial group, plenty of great sightings, and lots of magnificent memories and photos brought home.

Jan 7^th

Departure day for many, whilst others, including myself, were either already en-route or in Tierra del Fuego already.

Jan 8th

Many of us met up in Ushuaia in the evening prior to our excursion to the Tierra del Fuego National Park tomorrow.  Argentina’s newly introduced (Dec 30^th!) daylight saving time meant that it stayed light until past midnight, making it extra easy to find our way home from  the restaurant.

Jan 9th

We arose to the sounds of the birds of Ushuaia, including Black-chinned Siskins and Austral Parakeets.  After our breakfast our guide Marcelo arrived and we headed off to the National Park for the day.  It was a great day, and we enjoyed success with almost all the target species.  Special thanks to Alison for spotting the three Austral Pygmy Owls from the moving bus.  Other highlights included Andean Condor, Magellanic Woodpecker, a family of Flying Steamer Ducks, Spectacled Duck, Austral Tapaculo, and the park itself.  Late afternoon we met up with the rest of the group and boarded the Vavilov prior to an early evening departure.  The evening sail up the Beagle Channel, interrupted only by the lifeboat drill, gave us many birds and cetaceans.  Highlights included the expected Black-browed Albatrosses and Magellanic Penguins, plus, for many, good views of a Magellanic Diving Petrel.  Both Dusky and Peale’s Dolphins were an auspicious start to a great voyage for cetaceans.

Jan 10th

At sea enroute to West Falkland.  Gentle seas and fair weather typified the day, and bird and mammal sightings were good.   Pick of the bunch included many Sei Whales, Grey-backed Storm Petrels, as well as Great Shearwaters, Black-browed Albatrosses and more.

Jan 11th

Immediately after breakfast we landed on rat-free Carcass Island, to be greeted with the expected wealth of small birds: A short walk (that took the rest of the morning) was filled with great views and many photos in mostly sunny if a little breezy conditions.  Endemic Cobb’s Wrens were of course a major target, but the Blackish Cinclodes vied with them for the birder’s attention.  Ruddy-headed Geese duly obliged, and the beach was stunning.  The Magellanic Penguins and chicks were star attractions for all. After lunch we landed on Saunders Island where we looked first at the Gentoo Penguin rookery with their small chicks, then a small colony of King Penguins, before heading to the Rockhopper Colony and onto the Black-browed Albatrosses.  The albatrosses were for many one of the major highlights of the entire trip. It was a magical afternoon, and it seemed all too soon that it was time to head back to the ship and set sail for East Falkland.

Jan 12th

Port Stanley was our destination for the day, we disembarked early and headed out to Gypsy Cove where highlights included great views of White-rumped Sandpipers and Rufous Chested Dotterels as well as Magellanic Penguins,Rock Shags and Night Herons.  Singing Grass Wrens were much appreciated too, and Burke commented that the vocalisations were so different that surely they should be split! Back in town the museum was a welcome diversion, some shopped a little and we all wound up at The Upland Goose Hotel for an excellent talk on the history of the Falklands by John Smith, followed by high tea before we sailed for South Georgia.

Jan 13th & 14th

Two excellent sea days, with plenty of birds, and on day two, several whales too.  Highlights included many Soft-plumaged Petrels, a few Little Shearwaters, Wandering, Royal, Black-browed, Grey-headed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, plus Fin, Humpback, Sperm and Southern Right Whales.  As we approached Shag Rocks we saw many tabular icebergs – most of which were probably aground. This is the first time I have seen them in that area, or indeed, so many so early in the trip.

Jan 15th

We arrived off South Georgia and were soon seeing Macaroni Penguins in the water – much cause for celebration by several of the group for whom this was the “last” species of penguin.  Steve ensured that we all celebrated in style with champagne later in the day.  We headed along the coast to find a sheltered spot, passing three Orcas as we entered the Bay of Isles, and eventually landing at Rosita Harbour.  A small yacht was also here, on board was Sally Poncet, researching the albatrosses and other seabirds. Amongst the wildlife on shore there were large numbers of Antarctic Fur Seals, with many “cute” cubs, as well as some Giant Petrels, including one that was exceptionally well covered in blood. Dramatic photos ensued.

After lunch we landed at the immense King Penguin rookery on Salisbury Plain.  Words are truly inadequate – save to say that everyone has an absolutely brilliant afternoon.  Afterwards we sailed by Prion Island – the swells today in this exposed spot precluded us making a landing sadly.

Jan 16th

We awoke off the abandoned Husvik whaling station where we Zodiac cruised before making a landing.  Apart from the dramatic ruins, highlights included many South Georgian Shags nesting on the jetty, Antarctic Terns feeding over the kelp beds, and several Giant Petrels and Sub-Antarctic Skuas at a seal carcass.

After we got back on board we sailed into Stromness Bay to see the abandoned whaling station where Sir Ernest Shackleton (“The Boss”) finally made it back to after his epic voyage into the Weddell Sea and we saw the manager’s hut where he first introduced himself on his return.   After lunch we disembarked nearby at Grytviken and toasted “The Boss” at his grave.  We then headed off in search of Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses and duly located three nests, before returning to the abandoned whaling station and museum.  Back on board we enjoyed a barbecue on the back deck.

Jan 17th

We started the day out at Gold Harbour, giving the expedition staff yet another  opportunity to show off their prowess with Zodiacs in choppy seas and at a “surfy” beach.  To say it was well worth the effort would be a massive understatement.  The “wall-to-wall” wildlife here on a morning filled with sunny periods was idyllic.  Elephant and Antarctic Fur Seals, King Penguins, Gentoo Penguins, Sub-Antarctic Skuas, even a Macaroni and a Chinstrap too.. it was overwhelmingly fantastic.  The hours disappeared and we had to return to the ship..  so we headed east and towards Cooper Bay, where the swells meant that we stayed on board, rounding Cooper Island with it’s vast colonies of Macaroni’s and Black-browed Albatross, before heading in to Larsen Harbour for a Zodiac cruise.  Highlights of the cruise included a Weddell Seal (perhaps one of the last of an isolated population found here).  It’s scars alluded to a potential problems for the species here – the massive increase in Fur Seals may be driving them away from their traditional area.  A South Georgia Shag gave excellent views in the flat calm waters.

Back on board we set sail for the South Orkneys, seeing thousands of Antarctic Prions and our first Blue Petrels as well as a single Kerguelen Petrel.

Jan 18th

At sea heading towards the South Orkneys, the day was most notable for the large numbers of Blue Petrels and Antarctic Prions as well as many other seabirds and the two Cuvier’s beaked Whales seen by Mike and a couple of others in the afternoon.  Cetacean highlight for most was a group of five Hourglass Dolphins that showed quite well, albeit somewhat briefly.

Jan 19th

Before breakfast we were approaching Laurie Island, South Orknies, from the north, our approach made all the more interesting by many icebergs. On one lay a Leopard Seal, and nearby we saw two Humpback Whales.  Many of the bergs and floes were covered in penguins, mainly Chinstraps, it was a great ”Antarctic “ feeling.  We managed to land despite all the ice (there were many bergy bits along the beach) and enjoyed a tour of the Argentinean “Orcada” base.  The bay to the south held several Weddell Seals hauled out on the fastice, and the cliffs to the west were covered in nesting Cape Petrels, chattering away.  Occasionally a Snow Petrel flew by and Kate spotted one on a nest deep in a crevice.  As we left the views were even more spectacular with shafts of sunlight lighting the bergs and we saw (the same?) two Humpback Whales.

Jan 20th

At sea, heading towards Antarctica.  Due to ice, winds and poor visibility progress was slow but it was a dramatic day with a diversion of several miles to get around one particularly large iceberg, great views of Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses, and by evening, huge amounts of spray over the bows as we crashed in to the waves. Cetaceanwise, as predicted, the best chance was of a beaked whale and surely enough we saw three – the first being a Southern Bottlenose  giving excellent views just off the bow and down the starboard side. Later we saw at least three Orcas and yet another two beaked whales – probably Southern Bottlenose again.

Jan 21st

Now heading towards Turret Point and Penguin Island which we reached just after lunch, to be greeted by a choppy sea, but not to be thwarted (it was only uncomfortable – not unsafe) we headed to shore and enjoyed some excellent time with the Adelie Penguins.  Other highlights included more Elephant Seals, Southern Giant Petrels and Chinstrap Penguins too.

Jan 22nd

More “lumpy” seas greeted us at Hannah Point but once again the Captain and the expedition team were well up for it and we landed safely.  High on the target list was the chance to see Macaroni Penguin “onshore” and we were duly rewarded.  In addition the Chinstraps and Gentoo Penguins were great fun with their well grown chicks, and we watched the Giant Petrels from a  safe distance.  At the far end of the beach we enjoyed the  rocks laid out with a small “museum” of fossils, before heading back to the Vavilov and sailing to Deception Island

Gale force winds made for a dramatic approach, with Humpback Whales vieing for attention with the huge Chinstrap Rookery at Bailey Head.  The huge breakers on that beach were particularly fearsome today.  We sailed into the caldera through Neptune’s Bellows and soon realised that this was going to be a big ship cruise.  To be honest we saw more of the place than had we landed and David, Woody and Rupert kept us entertained in the lounge with stories of the island’s past.

Leaving we saw several more Humpbacks as we headed towards the Antarctic Peninsula.

Jan 23rd

Sailing into Andvoord Bay early morning we were greeted by heavy snow falling (and settling!) on a flat calm sea.  As we approached the head of the bay some Humpbacks lazed in the water and added a sense of scale.  We went Zodiac cruising after breakfast, enjoying the Antarctic seascape, falling snow, the first of what was to a be a “full house” of seals today (Crabeater, Weddell and Sub-Antarctic Fur this morning, and Leopard this afternoon), some great bergy bits, and perhaps best of all, some great close encounters with Antarctic Minke Whales.  Back on board as we sailed yet further south we saw more minke and Humpback whales, perhaps most notable one that breached repeatedly close to the Marco Polo – one of the very few other ships that we saw the entire voyage.

In the afternoon we landed at Danco Island – after initially having a prolonged Zodiac ride to shore via a very co-operative and curious couple of Leopard Seals – one on a floe and one in the water, followed  by some close looks at some Humpback Whales. Finally ashore (on the continent itself) we enjoyed great looks at Gentoo Penguins, their chicks, a particularly co-operative Snowy Sheathbill, and had the chance to walk uphill a little to gain elevation for a view.

Jan 24th

Dawn broke early at 03.30 and as it did so began the clouds to part.  By 06.00 sunshine was flooding onto the mountains that surrounded us and as we sailed towards our morning landing at Neko Harbour almost everyone was out on deck snapping views and soaking up the experience.

The landing gave us great opportunities for sunny photographs and a short uphill walk with spectacular views and backdrops.  Birding highlights were probably the Gentoo Penguins and South Polar Skuas, whilst a subsequent Zodiac cruise provided yet more minke whale encounters.

The idyllic calm and spectacular scenery was the setting for a barbecue lunch on the back deck, interrupted only by yet more Humbacks and Antarctic Minke Whales as we approached Paradise Harbour, where we landed at the semi-abandoned Chilean Station of Almirante Brown.  A Zodiac cruise gave us views of the Antarctic Shag colony and “close-up” views of the glacier front – where several “small” pieces fell into the water.  On shore some walked to the top of the low hill, whilst others explored the base and watched the Gentoo Penguins.

Time then to sail north and bid adieu to Antarctic.  David hosted a toast to Antarctica in the bar and an auction in aid of Save the Albatross Campaign which raised over US$10,000 dollars.

Jan 25th

At sea heading towards Cape Horn.  Our only quiet day of the entire voyage, it was typified by fog and we saw very little apart from a few Blue Petrels (shouldn’t turn your nose up at any chance to see them).  Pretty much everyone enjoyed the chance to relax, recharge batteries (physically and metaphorically) and to reflect on the accomplishments and highlights thus far.

Jan 26th

Drake Passage to Cape Horn.  A much busier and more productive  day with lots of birds (especially in the morning) and some great Peale’s Dolphin action in the afternoon.   Birding highlights included several of each of Wandering, Northern Royal and Southern Royal Albatrosses, as well as several Grey-headed, many Black-broweds and a single Shy Albatross, seen only by Chris, who got a couple of great pics of it. In the morning Mike spotted two Orcas just before breakfast, but they did not show well.  The seas were kind and the weather fine, and the group rounded off the day with a celebratory drink on deck 7 followed by the Captain’s farewell dinner.

Jan 27th

We arrived back into Ushuaia under a brilliant pink sunrise, and due to the delayed northbound flight had all elected to ask Marcelo to take us out for the day. Fortunately he was free and we had a great time in the National Park, seeing yet more Magellanic Woodpeckers and plenty of other birds besides.  A great end to a great trip!

Jan 28th

Overnight flights and ensuing connections brought most us back home by the end of the day.  Thanks to all the participants for sharing and enjoying this trip, with extra special thanks to Mike Scott-Ham for his great spotting eyes and use of the radio to help alert other members of the group to the sightings.

Dick Filby

www.wildwings.co.uk