29^th July /16^th September

 

After a long overnight flight with minor delays, the majority of our intrepid groups arrived in Sao Paulo at around 6am. Travelling in Brazil these days, especially involving Sao Paulo invariably involves delays and both team’s boarded internal flights to Belo Horizonte later than intended. We eventually arrived to be met by a smiling Regina Ribeiro and our driver for both tours, Leondre. After boarding our comfortable coach we set off for the long drive to Sao Roque de Minas in the foothills of Serra de Canastra National Park. Stopping for lunch at a roadside Churruscaria introduced many people to their first taste of Brazilian cuisine, a splendid buffet offering salads, vegetables and a range of their finest cooked meats all washed down with a variety of soft drinks and for some, the local beer. Despite the improvement to the roads close to Sao Roque, initial delays meant that both groups still arrived a little later than we would want. With everybody pretty tired, we checked into our rooms and thanks to Regina and our friendly local team, we either managed  to get an excellent selection of pizzas delivered or a rather nice local spread, rapidly consumed with local beer.

 

30^th July/17^th September

 

On both trips the insomniacs among the group were up at first light and enjoying a pre-breakfast birding session in the rather promising grounds of the Chapado. A noisy pair of White-eyed Parakeets hotly pursued by a number of other species quickly whetted our appetite for the forthcoming day. Our first hummingbirds,  attracted to the feeders between reception and  breakfast often hosted a number of species including  White-vented Violetear,  Stripe-breasted Starthroat, Planalto Hermit and Swallow-tailed  Hummingbird.  After breakfast we boarded the bus and headed off, up a rather testing road to the park entrance high  above us. Obviously for both trips we had three main targets, Giant Anteater, Pampas Deer and Maned Wolf. Anteaters are funny creatures, rather like us, they don’t like cold starts and often will not move and are therefore not visible until the sun is relatively high.  Temperatures vary and traditionally, July has colder starts being mid-winter. The two dates involved here couldn’t have been more different.

 

On the first tour we added a new mammal species to the trip list in the form of a fine Striped Hog-nosed Skunk, which idled  its way across the road in front of us quite close to the park entrance. After a brief stop at the source of the Rio Sao Francisco to scan for wolves amongst the nearby rocky outcrops, a check of the sandy track for signs of spores, we headed off to an area known as the ‘coral’. In July, we found our first Maned Wolf, an adult radio-collared  female,  nosing around, close to the road. We watched and photographed her before she disappeared over a ridge and out of view. She was picked up again from a different vantage point, working a ridge with two Aplomado Falcons following, the significance of which would become apparent later. Scanning from the dry stone-walls of the abandoned ‘coral’ works really well as it offers a wonderful vantage point to scan for target species especially anteaters. On both trips, the first, distant anteaters were spotted from here. There are also many excellent  birds around the area  including the wonderfully named  Firewood Gatherer and a plethora of rather drably marked seed-eaters. From here we tend to go for the nearest anteater spotted closest to the road and in that respect both trips were very similar as both the nearest anteaters managed  to elude a closer inspection. It was from this point that the two trips became very different. Despite the colder conditions on the July trip, the days total of 12 Giant Anteater was rather good. On the August trip, on a very warm day we struggled  to find them at all with only 6 individuals by the end of the day. Having said that, our intrepid group of deer stalkers almost managed  to stand on a sleeping  Giant and were offered wonderful views as the bewildered animal hurtled off up the hillside! I say deer stalkers as on both trips, Pampas Deer, now an endangered species in the state, put in an appearance. On the first trip, a superb stag was viewed at close range from the roadside and on the second, three observations involving at least six animals provided some optimism for the future. On both trips we headed across the park, toward the top of Casca D’anta, the park’s magnificent waterfall, scanning the ridges diligently for hunting wolves. Despite covering a rather large area, this was going to continue as a theme for the rest of the day. On the first trip, as we approached our usual break point, a beautifully marked Giant Anteater was spotted lazily walking an approachable slope. The group, keen to get photographs set off in pursuit and were soon enjoying great views of this and a fine pair and six young Brazilian Merganser, one of the world’s rarest duck on the river below us. On the second trip, we struck lucky again, with the merganser at least, as the same family party were found resting on the rocks where we traditionally take lunch, albeit with one youngster missing. Lunch, a picnic, was consumed in the splendid surroundings of the river as it disappears over the edge, falling  hundreds of feet into the valley below. There were some good birds of course, usually our first Crested Black Tyrants, Sharp-tailed Tyrant, maybe a vivid  Blue Dacnis, Cinnamon Tanager  or a hummingbird  to entertain those who wish to ‘eat on the hoof’.  On the first tour, a fine King Vulture put in several appearances and was greatly admired, but for the second trip, we had to wait another day for this one. On both trips, the afternoon was spent in a similar fashion to the morning, driving, stopping and scanning.  Apart from the previously mentioned Pampas Deer Stag on the July trip, both first afternoons were relatively quiet with predominantly birds taking centre stage.  On the July trip, these tended to be mostly raptors with the local specialities very hard to find at this time of year, On the September trip, these were becoming  more obvious and everybody got good views of  birds such as the wonderful Cock-tailed Tyrant. We lingered in an area known to be good for wolves but on both trips drew a blank. This year the area was incredibly dry and with a lack of signs of small mammals, you wonder how this large mammal survives? We made it back to our accommodation after dark, but with time to shower before our first of many excellent evening meals.

 

On the second tour, a brief recce with a spotlight within the garden produced fine views of another new mammal species for the trip in the form of a White-eared Opossum. Sadly this was’nt repeated the following evening.

 

31^st July/18^th September

 

On the first trip, flushed with our success rate with Giant Anteater the previous day, we decided to head down to area at the base of the waterfall and its adjacent riverine forest in the lower edges of the National Park. The usual dawn crowd were present to witness a remarkable sight of another family group of Brazilian Mergansers that cruised into view on the river that runs through the bottom of our compound. After breakfast, we headed off down to the lower park, stopping briefly at any suitable habitat. At a traditional riverside stop we found another merganser , fifteen  merganser  in two days is quite staggering  and again offers hope for the future of this species.

Before we had even got to the favoured stretches of river, a flurry of bird activity beside the road  produced a group of the delightful  Toco Toucan and other species including  the bizarre Red-legged  Sereima, the neotropical equivalent of Africa’s Secretary Bird and whose local name is the rather endearing ‘off road chicken’.  Onto the reserve proper and immediately a number of bird species were noted, the best perhaps, a male Helmeted Mannikin, shortly followed by a male Pin-tailed Mannikin.  A few moments later and Regina spotted a trio of Masked Titi Monkeys feeding  high  in the trees on the opposite side of the river. This was a good find as the species can  be awkward to see well at Caraca and enabled everyone who wished, good scope views in bright light.  For some it was a difficult choice as a group of Gilt-edged Tanagers, some of the most colourful of South America’s birds vied for attention. The walk down to the falls itself produced very little, bar  magnificent  views and the appreciation of the awesome power of water in freefall. Sadly the hoped for group of Black-tufted Marmosets failed to put in an appearance despite several attempts to lure them out.

 

The late afternoon was spent back on the top with another attempt on getting further views Maned Wolf,  and perhaps another photogenic anteater. Just after we’d passed the source of  Rio Sao Francisco,  a shout from two eagle-eyed  members of the group indicated that there was an armadillo on the side of the road.  Sadly, despite a good search for the animal, which appeared to be a new and highly desired species for the trip, Giant Armadillo, had done a runner! A little further and we spotted a young anteater slowly making its way towards a gully. The wind was in the right direction and the light was good so we set off in pursuit upwind in order not to disturb what looked like another well-marked individual. Despite getting very close, the animal spooked easily and vanished into some heavy vegetation. We did however find ourselves with the wonderful opportunity of watching a Maned Wolf, which suddenly materialised  on the adjacent  hillside. In good light, this mahogany rich individual entertained us as it trotted about looking for food. Once again, on close examination, this individual, probably a male, also wore a radio collar.  That wasn’t the icing on the cake however as another Maned Wolf, this time hunting along the roadside was found on the return back towards the entrance. This individual, perhaps no more than 30m from our coach, was watched hunting amongst the ever  present termite mounds. At one stage, the animal appeared to pounce only to have the prey, what appeared to be a cavy, stolen from it by a pair of Aplomado Falcons working in tandem!  This bizarre relationship has since been observed by the wolf researchers based at Canastra. An afternoon’s total of six Giant Anteater and two Maned Wolves was very good indeed.

 

On the September trip, a slight disaster as the park is forced to close because of bush-fires and the need to cut firebreaks. As we are not allowed to enter either the higher or lower parts of the National Park, we juggle and decide to visit a private preserve close to Sao Roque in the hope of at least seeing the Masked Titi Monkey. The preserve’s forest with a backdrop of Canastra’s cliffs,  its own private 300ft waterfall and crystal clear waters was a wonderful place to spend the morning.  A rarely seen but beautiful Coral Snake was seen by those at the front of the group as it made its way down into a forested gully virtually as soon as we had entered the trail. We searched very hard as a team for the primates. Black tufted-eared Marmosets where heard briefly but couldn’t be located, neither could the apparently resident group of Titi Monkeys, which alluded  us to the point of annoyance, must be the heat! There were however many good birds to be seen. Helmeted Mannikin appeared to be quite common as several males put in some prolonged showings and gave the leaders the best views they’d had in a long time!  A distant eagle, well spotted by Michael turned into the rarely recorded Crowned Eagle  once the scopes had been focussed, quite a surprise to say the least. A fine King Vulture put in an appearance as it used the cliff thermals to gain height among the more commonly seen raptors. There were plenty of other avian highlights during the morning, who could forget the Swallow  Tanager’s  glowing   plumage, but alas, no primates. Interestingly, a couple of locals dressed beautifully in ‘camouflage   white’ did disturb a couple of Titi monkeys just after we had left, such is life!

 

We returned to Sao Roque and our hotel for lunch and for some, rest during the midday heat. In the afternoon, after much persuasion, we managed to tempt the local group of Black- tufted Marmosets into the gardens with some juicy ripe bananas. Numbering eight in total, this wonderfully habituated group, allowed  prolonged, close views and many photographic opportunities, much to the delight of all present. In the late afternoon, we returned back to the private preserve for a spotlight walk around the trails in hope of spotting early evening activity. Sadly, no opossum, or armadillo , despite it looking very promising for both. A small mouse, hiding amongst rocks at the waters edge has yet to be indentified,  and a brief rattlesnake sp were the only records of note. In the evening we ate another great meal at a local restaurant a mere stone’s throw from the Chapado.

 

1^st August/19^th September

Today was going to be another travel day, and we needed to cover quite a distance as we wanted to arrive at our next destination, the monastery at Caraca, in plenty of time to check in and relax before the anticipated ‘evening show’.

 

With the first tour, after breakfast, we succeeded in attracting the resident group of Black-tufted Marmosets into the garden for a close and personal encounter. Always a wonderful experience, this was very fortunate as we were going to fail  to see them anywhere else on the trip. Very happy and with a completed target list, we boarded our bus and set off on our next leg. We normally stop at a small lake just to check it for ten minutes or so, but today it looked remarkably quiet and so we continued on. Luck always plays a part in these trips and today was no exception. Twenty minutes on, as the road bisects some large coffee plantations a long low-slung black cat sneaked across the road in front of the coach, a Jaguarundi.  It doesn’t get much better than this though sadly not everyone got a good view.

 

With the second tour the small lake looked like it was worth a short stop as there a few new species of birds to be seen, but further on, sadly no repeat sighting of black cats! 

We made a stop for fuel and Kevin discovered another group of Black-tufted Marmosets on their way to raid the kitchen compost bins at the back of the garage!

 

Lunch was taken in a Churruscaria close to Belo Horizonte. The remainder of the afternoon drive down to the monastery for both trips was largely uneventful with only a few birds of prey identifiable from our moving vehicle.  On the second tour, another group of Black-tufted Marmosets was located at a brief coffee stop. We eventually arrived at Santuario do Caraca  after over eight hours on the road  but at least we were all checked  in and admiring our wood panelled rooms by early evening.

 

On the first tour, the evening show started early as two Maned Wolf appeared on the terrace before we had even got to dinner.  It was a very cold evening but even so this is was a very unusual sight, two wolves feeding side by side as the species is generally  solitary.  After dinner, this quite remarkable  pair, a mother and fully grown cub continued to visit, albeit independently for the rest of the evening at regular  intervals. This however wasn’t the only ‘excitement’ of the evening,  as one of our group, a bat enthusiast, ‘disappeared’ just after a rather distressing yell had been heard. A brief search produced nothing until a rather surreal  Brazilian  woman,  dressed  in black cape and dark sunglasses  ‘flapped’ down the corridor and announced she’d just heard something down below her room. On investigation, our missing participant was found trying to clamber out of the rather deep moat that runs between the ancient monastery buildings and looking somewhat worse for wear. Nobody falls that distance onto rocks and gets away with it but we’d have to wait until tomorrow to find out just how bad the injuries were going to be. On a freezing night and in pitch black conditions, five cracked ribs was perhaps a rather ‘lucky’ result!  The wolves continued to visit allowing most to soak up another up-close-and-personal encounter and for most, fabulous memories from just our first night here.

On the second tour the evening show didn’t really start at all, it was more of an early morning. At one stage, a large  Striped Hog-nosed Skunk suddenly appeared through the arch and made its way up the steps toward the terrace. Sadly, just as it was about to clear the final step and show itself to everyone waiting, the monastery’s nine o’clock bells rang and it ran back the way it came and only a few of the group saw this striking animal. We did manage to get most people onto Tapiti or Brazilian  Rabbit  which is regularly found within the monastery compound but most people had gone to bed when the main event started. The participants deserve their dues in sticking it out throughout the evening and into the early hours. Fortunately, one hardy soul, Michael stuck it out just long enough for the first wolf appearance at 02.15 and managed  to get a few more members of the group out to enjoy the encounter.

 

 

2^nd  August/20^th September

 

The pre-breakfast session around the monastery vegetable patch and gardens proved productive with Brazilian Guinea-pig and Guianan  Squirrel  being noted alongside a variety of birds present in the grounds. On the second trip there was also a very brief encounter with a Red Brocket but this vanished before we managed   to get anyone onto it. We also had a group of calling Masked Titi near the upper reservoir but failed to find them in the dense foliage. Breakfast, which is a kind of self serve, self-cook affair provided it’s usual entertainment and bewildered looks.

 

On both trips, a concentrated walk along the Tanque Grande trail to look for Masked Titi Monkey produced calling groups but sadly no sightings. The walk up to the reservoir provided a number of excellent  birds to add to the list. On the first trip a number of Pin-tailed and Swallow-tailed Mannikins, Surucua  Trogon  and a whole host of tanager  species were seen. Also on the first tour, a Grey Brocket was observed as it walked slowly up the main sandy track. On the second tour, a fine pair of Hyacinth Visorbearer, the locally endemic and rather stunning hummingbird,  were seen, unusually, just by the entrance alongside a number of other good birds. After lunch back at the monastery there was ample time for everyone to catch up with cavies and squirrels before we took a walk out along the trail leading to the falls. A number of good birds were seen on the first part of the trail including Grey-backed Tatchuri, Serra Antwren but Swallow-tailed Cotinga, failed to put in an appearance on either of this year’s tours. At the falls, the first tour produced a brief  Hyacinth Visorbearer  which was fortunately seen by all of the birders within the group and on the second, we just enjoyed the views. After another excellent dinner both groups returned for another evening on the terrace and hopefully more close encounters with Maned Wolf. For both tours, we were not disappointed, as again, repeated and prolonged, independent visits by two wolves, often feeding only a few feet away, in the gothic surroundings of Caraca left wonderful memories.

 

3^rd August/21^st September

 

On the first tour, we had pretty much seen all of our target species and a  post breakfast visit to an area above the ‘piscina’ to have another look for the stunning Hyacinth Visorbearer  sadly produced none despite the fantastic backdrop, maybe it really was too cold  after all. On the second trip we were under some pressure to find Masked Titi Monkey. Nobody likes to leave mammals behind, especially those that you can hear calling  from reasonably close range and know to be there. A pre-breakfast attempt at the groups around the Tanque Grande trail was arranged, and  we were soon on the main track when they started to call.  Some careful tracking through the forest and soon everyone was enjoying some really remarkable views of this often, elusive animal.  I believe, at one stage, we were in between at least four family groups and observations of territorial marking, social -grooming and all the youngsters, we were very fortunate indeed! A quick turnaround back at the monastery, drinks bills settled and were off again, departing for another day largely spent on the road travelling towards Caratinga in eastern Minas Gerais, on the western ridge of the ‘Atlantic’ forest.

 

We have traditionally been lucky enough to have a personal invite to a private preserve to visit an habituated group of marmosets between Caraca and Caratinga. Unfortunately, in August, a family illness prevented us from doing so. In September, things were much better and after another great lunch stop we made our way late afternoon to Situ Graciema. This privately owned finca  just to the west of Manhuaca  provides the joy of having close encounters with a habituated group of Geoffroy’s Marmosets. We were not disappointed. On arrival, the edge of forest bordering the house suddenly burst into action as marmoset after marmoset appeared in anticipation of a free meal. Possibly as many as fifteen of these wonderful little creatures were present, many of the adult animals gratefully accepting pieces of fresh banana from members of the group. By early evening we had arrived in Caratinga,  a  relatively new base for WildWings,  as Ipanema has been deemed too noisy from previous years’ tours. After quick form filling, we all relished our first power showers and unlimited hot water for a week, before eating a delicious meal in the restaurant downstairs.

 

4^th August/22^nd September

On both tours we left after an early breakfast for a day in Reserve  Biologica  de Caratinga  in search of two of the most threatened of primates possible on this tour, the Muriqui and Buffy-headed Marmoset as well as two more widespread primates, Brown Howler and Black Capuchin (formerly a subspecies of the Brown Capuchin). On the first trip, a  short stop en route produced a pair of stunning Streamer-tailed Tyrants and an assortment of grassland species whilst on the second trip, most of these species had already been seen.

 

For both trips we stopped at the gated track opposite the river on the edge of the reserve. This has been very productive in recent years and in both August and September, the Buffy-headed Marmoset group performed here beautifully with some astonishingly close encounters on both tours. Although not habituated as such, this relatively large group appears to be very tolerant and providing you are both quiet and careful,  allow close approach. The photographers certainly got some great shots of a rarely illustrated but totally fascinating species. In September, the first Brown Howlers were also enjoyed from this area, lazing around , absorbing  the first warm sunrays from exposed branches.

This gave the impression that things were easy but in the past we have had a surprising

amount of trouble locating the marmosets. Onward to the reserve proper and our base at the reserve headquarters. We have friends involved in the research here and its generally not too long before the radios crackle and we have an idea where the Muriqui maybe. That said, if the group are feeding in the forest interior, it can be a long wait before they’ll move out towards the open. It is once again very much down to luck.

 

In August we enjoyed our first Black Capuchins from the relative comfort of the reserve compound before we ventured off down the main track. Along with Antonio, the reserve manager equipped with the all important radio, we headed off towards a likely position for the Muriqui to cross as the crackling radio had indicated they were on the move. As we walked along numerous birds and the odd primate entertained from roadside vegetation. Whilst we waited and listened for an update, we checked out an area  of Cecropia trees which had held a mother and baby Sloth only a few days before. Needless to say, despite some extensive and very thorough searching we failed to find any sign, one day…..

 

After a while trying to decide which way to go and filling our time with numerous forest birds that appeared in waves, the radios indicated that the monkeys were heading back toward the research station. Antonio, with the advantage of an off road bike decided to go and look in an area of forest just behind the main headquarters. This proved to be a wise move for as soon as we got back we were being beckoned to follow a loose trail into the forest along a raised bank. A few minutes later, having passed our first, very close but sleeping  Howlers we were enjoying superb views of around twenty female and young Muriqui. This encounter was really special as the Muriqui were very relaxed and relatively stationery offering ample study and photographic opportunities. We spent a wonderful half hour with the group before retiring back to the headquarters for a fine packed lunch, not of course before we’d had a good look at the howlers. In the afternoon, we went back down the road for a while and enjoyed further, prolonged views of another Muriqui group, this time the males at the roadside. We returned to check out some abandoned buildings seeing more Brown Howlers before finally taking up the offer of visiting a rather special bat roost Antonio had mentioned. This outbuilding, unknown to us, held a substantial colony of Seba’s Short-tailed Fruit Bats and we all enjoyed the spectacle of a hundred tiny faces looking down on us.

 

In September, after enjoying some close howlers around the outbuildings, we walked slowly down the main track in relative silence, listening for the subtle but distinctive braying of content Muriqui. The researchers had lost the group in dense forest and so we were going to have to find them ourselves. Our first roadside Black Capuchins quickly skulked back into the undergrowth and refused to show themselves properly. I hung back to very slowly check all the roadside Cecropia  trees as it’s about time we recorded a Sloth, especially as there are quite a few in this forest. Enjoying a mixed  bird party with Geoff and Heather, the radio crackled  into action, Regina had found the Muriqui. By the time we arrived both sides of the road appeared to be full of primates. A large group of Muriqui were feeding and providing everybody with superb views. Intermixed  with some of these were a group of Black Capuchins and a family of Buffy-headed Marmosets feeding on the periphery. It was difficult to choose and after spending some time watching the Muriqui, I went back to watch the marmosets, after all, you can never get enough of a good thing!  If I missed something I apologise, but I do really like the little blue-faced dudes. This was just going too well, all of the primates and still some way to lunch. We continued up the road and to the edge of the forest where the habitat opens right up. Some nice birds, particularly a very relaxed Crecent-chested Puffbird, an interesting frog sp which I didn’t see and some fine sloth habitat minus the sloth. As we ventured back toward the headquarters, the Brown Howlers in the vicinity suddenly went ballistic with a strength to their vocalisations I’ve certainly never heard  before. Regina and one of the researchers ahead  of  the group  realised why when a Tayra suddenly appeared trotting up the middle of the track. Sadly this fabulous predator saw us first and vanished into the forest undergrowth in one swift move and could not be relocated. A sharp-eyed Heather found a rather large iridescent snake sunbathing on a log over the stream below us. Walking back we inevitably bumped into numerous birds. Particularly pleasing was a feeding flock including Ruby-crowned, Gilt-edged and Green-headed Tanagers alongside  other species that were just too high to be positively identified. The packed lunch that we had arranged at the hotel was particularly well received, especially as it contained some delicious chocolate…..apparently.  Next time Regina asks me if I want my Bonbon, I’ll remember it’s not a boiled sweet!

 

In the afternoon, some of us took a short walk back along the main track in the hope of locating a Three-toed Sloth that had been present a few days before. Despite a number of eyes concentrating on the canopy we failed to locate this elusive beast.  We then drove down to the abandoned building to have a look at the Seba’s Short-tailed Fruit Bats. A rather disturbing number had died since our last visit, their corpses scattered around the floor. Those that were still clustered up in the ceiling seemed mostly alert and in good health and hopefully will continue to prosper in the future. We then took a walk back along the forested track toward the main track before continuing down to the entrance. A number of primates were seen including yet another group of Buffy-headed Marmoset perhaps indicating a brighter future for this species.  Back at the hotel via another route, we enjoyed dinner before retiring to bed happy after another successful day.

 

5^th August/23^rd September

 

A long travel day, and for both trips, one that always needs a little  patience as the  traditional airtime delays invariably mean  extra  time in airports. For both trips, the flights from  Brasilia  to Cuiaba were delayed and neither group made it into their hotel rooms in the Amazon Plaza before midnight.

 

6^th August/24^th September

 

After a very brief night’s sleep in the rather outrageously themed Amazon Plaza hotel both groups were up early for the impressive breakfast spread. Despite our long travel day yesterday, we still managed  to be on the road not long after breakfast albeit a slightly later one. With hot temperatures predicted our comfortable coach for this initial run to the Transpantaneira is a very good vehicle choice.  After picking up a variety of drinks at a supermarket in Pocone we were soon heading south on the gravel and sand of the Transpantaneira  reaching the entrance to the Pantanal in good time. From here on the richness of this huge ecosystem was clear for all to see. The two trips were very different in terms of the Pantanal’s water levels but almost identical in terms of species recorded. In August, there was still plenty of water all the way up to the main entrance, whilst in September, this had evaporated rather dramatically, yet the greatest concentrations of wildlife were still in the same, favoured places. A few miles farther and a Marsh Deer, a fine antlered stag caught our attention from the roadside. Further stops were made to view and photograph the wealth of water birds and birds of prey found alongside the road here. Species seen included Jabiru, Maguari and Wood Storks, Great and Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Heron, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Snail Kite, Black-collared and Savannah Hawks.

 

Continuing south toward Pixaim both groups experienced  different levels of water but very similar species lists for this part of the journey. A little further and a brief stop at Araras Ecolodge’s BarAraras  for both tours resulted in us seeing our first South American Coati. In August, a large group crossed the road in front of us and in September, one was found investigating the paddock behind the. After encounters with our first Marsh Deer and Capybara, the world’s largest rodent, we arrived at the Beira  Rio, Pixaim just in time for a splendid buffet lunch. After lunch while some took the opportunity to rest, others chose to spend time watching and photographing the colourful array of birds and reptiles around the hotel itself. These included Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Bay-winged, Shiny and Giant Cowbirds, Purplish Jay, the now numerous Pantanal Caiman and the odd Tegu Lizard.

 

In the cooling afternoon we boarded our boat for the trip along the adjacent Rio Pixaim. You can never be disappointed with this experience even if you initially fail to find the main target species, Giant Otter. The group has grown so large in recent years that there was inevitably going to be some social problems and as expected, had split up into smaller numbers and were far more wide ranging. As we journeyed away from our accommodation, a wealth of water birds alongside several  Bare-faced Currasow, Piping Guan and numerous Chaco Chacalaca’s  vied for attention. In August, we ventured east, pretty much as far as we could  go before locating two rather elusive  Giant Otter which spent a lot of time checking us out from overhanging vegetation. Eventually with some patience and a little coaxing, the animals appeared out in the open and gave everyone a reminder of just how big they really are. In September, we ventured east to the same area but to no avail. Some wonderful close views of a number of traditionally elusive bird species such as Sunbittern and Sungrebe but no otters. We travelled back to the lodge and went west, having been informed by the fisherman that the otters had passed us and were travelling the other way! We eventually found where they were resting up by their excited calls, but they refused to show themselves, so we left them in peace.

 

On both trips Black and Gold Howler monkeys were spotted in riverside trees and numerous Capybara dozed in the sandy shallows. The advantage of travelling back at dusk soon became apparent as the nightshift takes over and the river suddenly becomes alive, with both fishing bats and nighthawks on the wing.

 

After dinner and we were off again, this time on our newly aquired , open-back safari-style truck for a spotlighting session on the Transpantaneira  north of Pixaim.

 

In August this was one of those special evenings. Every trip has them, a purple patch of spotlighting when everything seems to fall perfectly into place. Both Crab-eating Fox and Racoon put in their usual appearances at favoured localities along the road. A couple of Red Brocket Deer were welcome , but the top of the list this night was a shared prize. A superbly marked Ocelot crept and teased until finally giving itself up and us a good view

in response to a little ‘squeeking’ , and an equally brilliant  pair of very showy Brazilian Tapirs.

 

In September, things were slightly different, maybe the conditions, which were much drier were a factor, maybe the moon was just a little too bright. We didn’t quite have the success rate of the previous tour’s first night but we still managed  to see some very good

mammals. Crab-eating Fox was observed before we’d even boarded the truck as very smart, habituated individual appeared at the restaurant doors in search of some scraps. This species was also very evident in the spotlighting session as at least half a dozen more were seen.  We failed to find Crab-eating  Racoon , which was a bit of a surprise as there are usually plenty in the area. There was a Tapir around the lodge, somewhere,  but we failed  to locate it. Ocelots are always a ‘lucky’ find and as tonight was generally quiet, it was no surprise that one failed  to put in an appearance. We finished  the spotlighting session with a magnificent  Marsh Deer stag which appeared to be completely oblivious of being  bathed in bright green light. Both sessions enjoyed a number of nocturnal birds including both Great and Common Potoo’s, various nightjar’s and the odd Boat-billed Heron.

 

7^th August/25^th September

 

Pre-breakfast boat trips are often a successful way to start a day, providing you are awake enough to enjoy it. In September, we still needed to get to grips with the aptly named ‘River Wolf’, the Giant Otter and revisited the area of the previous night’s tantalising encounter. We’d barely arrived when the animals appeared, four superb adults that checked out the boat before continuing on their fishing mission. They soon reappeared and we all enjoyed great views of a fascinating animal. We were also lucky enough to see a Neotropical River Otter which swam past and continued out of sight in an easterly direction.

 

After breakfast we off again, to continue our journey south along the Transpantaneira as far as it goes. With our open safari truck this is always an exciting trip and both tours enjoyed some spectacular sights and sounds. We were beginning to hear from Pantaneiro friends of exciting encounters whilst travelling between locations and both Jaguar and Puma had been seen fairly recently, news enough to get the heart racing!  On both trips there were some great birds recorded on the road south, some, in the heat haze even daring to give the impression of being mammals rather than birds. This is the land of the Hyacinth Macaw, one of the world’s largest and most spectacular parrots and on both trips, pairs and trios dazzled us with flybys. There were some excellent  views of birds such as Scarlet-headed  Blackbird  which on previous trips have generally  been quite awkward to observe. A plethora of raptors, perched seemingly on every decent vantage point always offered the photographers a regular tease. A traditional stop at one of the Transpantanal’s numerous bridges  produced the hoped for roost of the strikingly marked  Long-nosed Bat.

 

The lunch stop for both tours was taken at Eduardo’s rather homely Jaguar Eco Lodge.

As always, an excellent  lunch , an ideal place to avoid the midday sun and a great place to find out about recent sightings. Having it’s own fresh water pools and mature shady trees invariably means that wildlife is drawn to the lodge  and its surroundings. Birders can never relax  as there is always something to look at. Hyacinth Macaws are often around and neither tour was disappointed. In August, a group of Black-striped Capuchins entertained from the far corner of the compound. In September, news that there was a large  male Jaguar  in the area was followed  by frustrated accounts from Eduardo that it was also very difficult to see but could literally appear at anytime, anywhere, inspiring food for thought. After a superb passion fruit mousse and a strong coffee both tours departed for a quick venture down the nearby and often productive Saint Isobel Road. At the abandoned research station, a daytime roost of the incredible Great Potoo had been found. On both tours the bird was in pretty much the same area of the same bare tree, not bad nearly two months apart! In August we found a nice group of Black and Gold Howlers in the same area together with an excellent  pair of Golden-collared  Macaws. In September it was much hotter and drier and perhaps not surprisingly the local primates were keeping their heads down. We were unlucky in disturbing but not seeing what was probably a resting Tapir as we drove along slowly, carefully observing either side of the road. A fine male Bat Falcon was probably the best sighting from the brief drive.

Journeying south from here the landscape slowly changes as the land is lower, wetter and much more open country. Both Capybara and Caiman become more obvious and in greater numbers as do the greatest concentrations of waterbird species, the open vista amplifying this marvel. On both trips the Ype trees were in flower throughout the Pantanal, the yellows and lilacs of August becoming purple in September as different species hit their peaks. In September, we cautiously stopped around the abandoned building  and its mature shade trees to check a traditional spot for Great Horned Owl. I say cautiously because this patch has a very large killer bee nest amongst the trees but fortunately it appeared the cooler air prevented much activity. We found a fledged  family of four owls spread about amongst the understory. In September, in much warmer conditions there was no sign of them and bee activity had increased substantially.

Literally, at the end of the road, we reached our destination and base for the next three nights at least. Arriving in the late afternoon, both teams were  welcomed by the ever smiling Gustavo, Porto Jofre’s enthusiastic manager  and shown to our rooms. As there was enough daylight for a brief sortie, most people had a little wander to check out this fine location. At the back of our accommodation, the area around the Amazon Water Lily ponds is always a good bet, especially as the light levels drop and Nacunda Nighthawks take to the wing. In August, we’d already seen some from the Transpantanal on their 

daytime roosts, pretending to be, well rather dung like. In September, these were our first of the trip and as the smartest and biggest of the region’s nighthawks, were well received.

For others it was a quick look at the river and a preview of what was to come over the next few days.

 

After dinner, which as always offered a fine selection of local produce, catfish, pirhana and all, we offered the first of three nights spotlighting opportunities. This is Jaguar country after all, and they are often seen on this southern section of the Transpantanal.  Unfortunately, this is normally by people who aren’t actually looking for them! On the downside, spotlighting here can also be very frustrating. The area, being much wetter, lacks the ‘smaller’ mammal diversity of the northern section and on some of the colder nights down here can appear surprisingly devoid of life. That said, there is always the ever present red eyeshine from the large  numbers of caiman  in the wetlands and fire-eyed nightjars as they launch a vertical take-off from the dusty edges of the road. Frustratingly, there are also lots of spiders some of whose green  eyeshine  is surprisingly bright and diverting.

 

In August it was cold and quiet with only some nice views of  Parauque  and Scissor-tailed Nightjars, Great Horned Owl and a couple of cows. In September we got off to a very good start with a brief encounter with a Brazilian Tapir just along the edge of the airfield. Sadly the animal was quickly spooked and vanished into the undergrowth before we’d  managed  to obtain a good  view. Sadly the rest of the evening was similar to the first tour except the nightjars weren’t as easy, and we missed the cows!

 

 

8^th August/26^th September

 

After an early breakfast, for both tours we spent the day exploring the river systems from Porto Jofre. The advantage of using a twin-engined  speedboat to explore the area  in search of our main quarry, Jaguar , becomes apparent when you realise just how much ground we cover during the day.  On both trips, we returned to Porto Jofre for lunch and a well-earned rest during the high  midday sun before resuming our search. The hour break after lunch gave many the opportunity to familiarise themselves with the gorgeous but noisy Hyacinth Macaws which invariably take up residence in the trees behind our rooms during this period.

 

In August we located a trio of Giant Otters rather quickly but here the animals are much shyer than at Pixaim, and the group soon disappeared into a well hidden holt. Checking every sandbank we passed revealed plenty of birds, Black Skimmers, Pied Lapwings and Black-collared Plovers, alongside numerous Capybara but little sign of fresh Jaguar activity. Onward and even more careful scrutinising of the river’s edge revealed some great sights but no sign of Jaguars.  We visited areas we knew were favoured and where Jaguars often rested up, areas where fisherman had seen them recently. Matheus imitated the Jaguar call once we’d found some fresh tracks but gained  no response. Covering great stretches of riverbank, diligent birders on board were kept busy with numerous raptors and other species that would suddenly appear as we travelled along. In the rising heat as we approached mid day, we headed back to Porto Jofre for a break and a welcome  lunch,  finding  another Giant Otter on the way.

The afternoon session followed pretty much the same pattern as the morning, returning to favoured areas and recent sightings but still no sign of Jaguar . The Capybara, seemingly relaxed didn’t really add to the confidence, just to our photo albums.  A family of Black and Gold Howlers provided some nice views but what we really wanted was a spotted cat, a large one!  Plenty of birds of course, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Black and Grey Hawks, the lovely Roseate Spoonbill and numerous kingfishers. There were also some excellent views of Green Iguana  in a variety of sizes and colour tones. Our return to Jofre in the rather speedily declining  light  produced close views of many Band-tailed Nightjar and both Greater and Lesser Bulldog Bats in good numbers.  After another superb evening meal, a long spotlighting session (we were beginning to worry) along the Transpantaneira produced very little other than the odd transfixed Capybara, distant Marsh Deer, two cows and a scared dog, which we rescued.

 

On the September trip we pretty much repeated the route taken previously, following the main river east of Jofre before searching areas along the tribituaries. Checking all the sandbanks, the quieter raised banks, the shaded areas, we then finally struck gold. As we searched a narrowing cut through channel whilst travelling between favoured areas, the ever vigilant boatman just happened to look back as we cornered a bend. This different perspective revealed a window beneath the trees with a large, low lying lump, a fine male Jaguar!  It was a fantastic looking animal, huge head and neck but with an incredibly pale base coat rather than the darker burnished tones of most mature males. Sadly, the animal immediately got up, revealing just how massive he really was before casually walking off into the undergrowth. We backed off and then returned to see whether there was any sign, Matheus even climbing a tree to see further, but sadly he’d gone. We were very lucky but it left us wanting more, two minutes view of this magnificent cat was just not enough. We continued to search for other Jaguars and I think, after hearing later from fisherman, just missed out on two together probably just after we’d passed. We also found a solitary Giant Otter on the way back to Jofre for lunch. This animal at first appeared sick as it barely moved as we passed its outstretched body on the riverbank. It was actually in good condition, just  it appears resting or having a quiet snooze until we came along.  It was also remarkably obliging, allowing a close, drifting approach for all to enjoy, film and photograph. We returned to Jofre, happy, hungry and optimistic. Michael went fishing and discovered the new found joy of spinning for fish catching several pirhana and a blue catfish. Others, I think, just went to sleep.

 

After the midday break, we returned to the ‘scene of the crime’ from this morning’s sighting but not before an encounter  with  a  large Brazilian Tapir as it left the water and disappeared into riverside vegetation. The Jaguar had sadly not returned to the riverbank, or at least it wasn’t obvious because the Capybara again  appeared  a  little too relaxed. We continued to search throughout  the afternoon, logging Brown and Golden Howlers and a small group of Black-striped Capuchins. We returned late, armed with spotlights and enjoyed  great  views  of large numbers of both fishing bats and nighthawks  often within  touching distance  of the boat. The evening spotlighting session produced a rather bizarre sight of a small Grey Brocket Deer trying to hide amongst a large bromeliad and a couple of distant Marsh Deer. A really fabulous encounter occurred when we stopped to check some distant eyeshine. As we pulled up, some very audible disturbance in the dense roadside vegetation resulted in a fine but panicky Giant Anteater crazily charging about and off away.  A few seconds later and further crashing about to the left, the spotlights illuminating the scene, a huge, beautifully marked second individual charged out of the undergrowth  and up to the side of truck. Sensing that there was something not quite right, but oblivious to the green filter the animal just stood in front of us, testing the air with it’s incredible nose, the graphic stripes positively glowing in the light. It then shot off to the rear of the truck and back into the roadside vegetation in pursuit of its presumed companion. A totally unexpected, rarely recorded sight in this, the wetter part of the Transpantanal.

 

9^th August/27^th September

 

As yesterday,  a very early breakfast and departure for another session on the river  in search of Jaguar. One group just wanting to see one, the other group wishing for better and more prolonged views. During both tours, Jaguars were being seen, some by boatmen, others by fishermen who by the nature of the sport, remain reasonably motionless for long periods in ideal habitat. On both tours this led to some serious frustration, but we were of course happy in the knowledge that at least they were  showing  themselves, albeit  somewhere else. It was just a matter of time…

 

In August, we tried very hard, searching constantly throughout the morning. Fresh tracks were found on a regularly checked sandbank and were probably only a few hours old. On another sandbank more tracks leading to the water’s edge, reappearing on the far bank and again indicating a Jaguar had crossed the river recently. We looked, we called  but sadly no sign of any cryptic movement,  the pressure was beginning to mount. We were not the only ones struggling either as we passed the Jaguar research boats it was clear that they to were having a frustrating time. We stopped occasionally to enjoy something smart or photogenic and other times for toilet stops or to relieve numb bums. I think we were desperately unlucky to miss a Jaguar disturbed by fishermen before we’ed reached that  part of the river. Very hot and tired-eyed, we returned to Porto Jofre quietly hoping for an afternoon’s change in fortunes. Sadly it was not to be. Instead of going east, we ventured  west  along the main  Cuiaba in search of two  individual Jaguars that had been seen in the morning by you guessed it, a couple of fisherman. The area they had been seen, one either side of the river was a regular stamping ground for the river’s big game fisherman and because of their quiet prolonged concentration, Jaguars were often seen there. We once again failed despite checking every nook and cranny along the riverbank within the area. We found a set of fresh prints leading from a sandbank into the forest edge, and judging by their size, a huge animal. Matheus called but we got no response from ether side of the river. A Red Brocket Deer, slowly moving along the water’s edge was  the only mammal  apart  from Capybara  to break  the  gloom. We all felt incredibly disappointed and although my ‘glass’ remained half full I was really beginning to wonder  if this was going to be the one that  failed. We journeyed back in the dark with a spotlight search of the riverbank, observing more fishing bats, nighthawks and the odd Boat-billed Heron but sadly no big furries. The evening meal was once again delicious, the Capirinha  more so and very welcome  after a hard day on the river.

The lucky fisherman who had seen the two Jaguars in the morning then came in and spoilt it all by announcing they’d seen two more in the afternoon in the area we had been working all morning. Mmmmm… what can you say? We are fortunate in having friends and allies at Porto Jofre and  the offer of having an unscheduled  final crack the following morning was  for most, too good to turn down. We still had a go at trying to find one nocturnally, but the spotlighting session, again on a cold night, produced very  little of note.

 

By contrast the September trip had actually seen a Jaguar by this stage and so to some degree the pressure was off. We all wanted to see another of course, but it would be a bonus, not necessarily a requirement. We too left early again for the river, once again venturing east to search favoured areas. Our first port of call is a strange place and to me at least, always seems to have an edge about it. On the previous tour we visited this ‘deadzone’ several  times, the sandy banks and  grassy plain, the forest bordering the shallow channel  with  the dead caiman. We even heard  a probable Jaguar response at one stage but saw nothing. Today we visited the channel again first thing, Matheus imitating the call in hope of a response. A number of Black Vulture hung about on the bank near the now rotting caiman corpses. We watched carefully but saw only a Sunbittern to divert our attention. We left and continued upstream carefully checking the tribituaries including the cut through from yesterday’s encounter. A close family group of howler monkeys was nice as were the numerous Iguana basking along the riverbank  close to the bizarre catfish holes. We continued to check all suitable sandbanks and shaded ‘watchpoints’ until the heat became a little too much and we decided to head back.  As we passed the ‘deadzone’ cattle were on the move albeit a slow calm amble along the shoreline. There were a few waterbirds including a Roseate Spoonbill pottering around the waters  edge and all looked relatively  tranquil. We returned to Jofre only to discover that the fishermen we’ed passed upstream earlier  had just seen Jaguar out on a sandbank  ahead of the cattle. We sat at lunch vowing to succeed in the afternoon. Michael once again went fishing and ended up catching the main ingredients for tonight’s Pirhana soup. In the slightly cooler afternoon we set off again upstream, positive and ready for one last attempt. As we approached the ‘deadzone’s’ vast sandy peninsula a family group of Giant Otter with young were spotted playing on the riverbank next to a large hole at the base of some tree roots. This was too good an occurrence to miss and being so relaxed offered a perfect photographic opportunity albeit for those with long lenses. A short while later, we entered the deadzone channel creeping up carefully as the aquatic vegetation is very dense and the depth fairly shallow. It looked still, and in truth was audibly silent as well. We looked into the distant edges, across the grassy plain and checked the shady banks. There is a ‘grassy’ ridge which obscures an open area which in fairness I’ve never actually seen anything in, but always looks good. I climbed up onto the bow of the boat to gain a little height advantage and scanned across. By some good fortune it was the right moment to do so for as I focussed, a striking black and white tail tip just broke the horizon in a nonchalant flick, …..Jaguar! I may have swore, I can’t remember and I apologise if I did but as I tried to explain where I was looking, a second animal just got up, materialising out of nowhere.  A little panic ensued, the boat was too low for most to see properly, we just had to get off. The propellers were no use as the water was clogged and so Matheus had no choice but to forcibly punt the boat into shore. We crept slowly along the shoreline towards the ridge keeping the trees close as a natural shield. Unfortunately, in the pool in front of us wallowed a large feral Cape Buffalo, not the best animal to get between you and your ultimate quarry! The Jaguars were still there but not in an ideal situation. We teased the buffalo into getting up and moving away, very  gently, they are pretty  dangerous after all!  The Jaguars thought so also and charged off in different directions into deep cover allowing the buffalo to move through. We assembled the team in a position that seemed safe and waited, for it seems only a few minutes. The male Jaguar reappeared and trotted across to where the other animal had disappeared . Walking along the edge of the trees and looking in our direction, the second animal then came out. They walked back towards us and into open arena, their excited purring very audible and matched only by flicking tails. For the next forty minutes we watched in awe   at close range,  the courtship ritual and mating of two  beautiful wild cats. At one stage the pair seemingly heard something and came over to investigate the team. Having a Jaguar walking toward you in the open is special, having two  is just awesome, and  both unnerving  and thrilling at the same time. She, was very confident and kept coming, closer and closer until we had no choice but to turn her. Incredibly, rather than running off, she just walked back to the crouching male and carried on where  they’d  left off,  unbelievable! We were briefly joined by a well known wildlife photographer who’d spotted our beached boat and guessed what we might be doing. Having spent ten days looking and having only managed a shot of a animal’s rear end and with this pair now moving away, you can imagine how that conversation went!

 

We returned back to Porto Jofre totally elated and  having witnessed  something most researchers only dream  about. Celebrating in the bar we discussed the afternoon’s encounter, illustrated of course, with  two rather  envious ‘Jaguar’ team  NGO’s.

Despite our incredible fortune we still managed a spotlighting session after dinner, seeing a few things but I think in reality our minds were elsewhere, it had been a very special day indeed.

 

10^th August/28^th September

 

Normally we depart quite early, after breakfast and bill settling, for the long drive north back  along the Transpantaneira  to our final destination, Araras.

 

In August, this was our final, last ditch attempt of finding a Jaguar on the river,  a gift as it were from the establishment.  We boarded our boat, mostly full of optimism though some weren’t so sure and we headed  off upriver in an easterly direction. After about  only twenty minutes or so, travelling up the main river,  my binoculars trained on the far bank because I knew  others were scrutinising the near bank  it finally happened! There in the shadows on top of the ridge was a superb male Jaguar. We brought the boat into the near bank, wedging it amongst the riverside vegetation and watched this beautiful cat watching us. It was clearly a fairly young male, large in body but not quite mature  enough  yet to have the full neck and head so typical of the big boys. With relief, elation  and  the odd tear,  we observed , photographed  and  filmed this top predator. An approaching fishermans boat realised what we  were  watching  and unfortunately spooked the animal by approaching too close too soon. As they quickly left the area, we  felt that it was best to continue upstream and across the river,  allowing  us to drift back down in the hope that the animal would reappear. As we were positioning further upstream we saw the same fisherman beckoning us forward toward  the  near bank. Unbelievably, a second Jaguar, a huge female was sat at the top of the bank looking like she wanted to cross the river. We crept in closer and enjoyed some fantastic views  of another magnificent animal. Once again though, the fishing boat moved  in too close so the participants could get snaps on their mobile phones. A bit stressed, she paced  about a little, checked  out the edge but decided not to jump before slinking back  into the dense vegetation.  After a twenty minute view we couldn’t complain but vowed that there had to be some Jaguar  etiquette  rules suggested. We returned downstream back toward  where  the  male had been seen and immediately relocated him. We approached upstream, closing the distance between ourselves and the bank, cut the engines and drifted back towards him. The views were superb and he appeared more bothered about a nuisance fly than anything we could muster, in fact, he lay down and went to sleep for a bit.  He was a beautiful, very majestic cat with a very distinct black mark around the right eye which created  the impression it was drooping.  So success once again, two magnificent cats, forty minutes of views and all by the skin of our teeth, we returned for an early lunch, triumphant!

 

After lunch we travelled north but only saw a few things from the road, Marsh Deer, Black and Gold Howlers etc.  We stopped for a break at Pixaim as the heat of the early afternoon became just too much to bear. We heard but didn’t see something large moving about in the leaf litter not far from Araras after Ann had spotted a large discarded Anaconda skin on the side of the road. Just after we’ed  left,  a following vehicle had two Giant Anteaters  cross the road in front of them literally where we’d  heard  the  noises. We arrived at Araras a little later than planned but with  time to relax before dinner.

An evening spotlighting session in this drier more productive habitat went very well with at least three Crab-eating Racoons, ten Crab-eating Fox and a superb Brazilian Tapir close to the road south of our lodging.

 

After the incredible performance of yesterday’s pair of Jaguar, the September trip left on schedule. An early morning foray by Kevin and others along the side of the airfield and adjacent road had produced a few nice things including the first Azara’s Agoutis of the trip. Sadly, the Brazilian Tapir, that judging by tracks regularly wandered the area  around  our accommodation  was not seen despite a good look. We left for the drive after breakfast, flushing an Agouti from the roadside vegetation  as we entered  the Transpantaneira. This journey north produced many more Marsh Deer than the previous trip as well as  a  Red Brocket Deer and  another  Giant Otter. It was a lot hotter and the drying conditions created a good movement of birds with some large flocks of storks and unusually, raptors moving south. After stopping at Jaguar Ecolodge to relay the news and get a few refreshments  we continued on for both lunch and shade at Pixaim.  This stop was needed as the temperature rose significantly after midday and was not exactly perfect travelling weather. Imagine a hot hair dryer in your face and you’ll get the idea. The seemingly resident Chestnut-eared Aracaris kept us entertained as they juggled berries into their incredible bills. We risked the heat and departed for the final leg north so that we had some time on arrival for a brief sortie. We saw more Marsh Deer including some very photogenic individuals close to the road as well as other photographic opportunities involving birds such as Greater Rheas. We made it to Araras with time to have a relaxed  checkin and do a section of the renowned boardwalk  up to the canopy tower. We saw a few things, some independently, others collectively.  Pick of the bunch was perhaps the two Grey Brocket Deer and a few Agouti from the boardwalk  plus a rather majestic Great Horned Owl  surveying us when we returned. After another quality evening meal, we boarded the truck for the now compulsive spotlighting session. We mostly covered the area opposite and to the south of Araras notching up at least six Crab-eating Fox, a Coati,  at  least  eight  Crab-eating Racoon, Red Brocket and some star quality in  a much desired Ocelot. We also saw both species of potoo and numerous nightjars, but most were a little too jumpy to be positively identified.

 

11^th August/29^th September

 

Today, for both trips, the morning was going to be a concentrated search for missing species particularly Black-tailed (Pantanal) Marmoset  and to obtain better  views  and  photographs if possible of others we wanted to see better. After an early ‘al fresco’ breakfast, surrounded by Capybara and a plethora of passerines, we took a walk along the main boardwalk and onto the watchtower.

 

In August, the group was still missing Neotropical River Otter and despite a family with young close to the boardwalk, this was to remain so. The Black-tailed Marmosets proved difficult for a while but eventually gave themselves up on the forest edge where some great and prolonged views were obtained. We also had brilliant views of a large group of Black-striped Capuchins within touching distance of the boardwalks  handrails. Black and Gold Howlers above the boardwalk soon followed, as did a large, inquisitive group of the mahogany coloured and rather endearing South American Coatis. Their cheeky hide and seek is a joy to watch providing your not trying to get a ‘killer’ shot. The Azara’s Agoutis performed really well, allowing a  careful , close approach  using the boardwalk  for stealth. In the wetter areas, the spectacular Sunbittern strutted around looking for insect prey whilst in the forest most of the local endemic birds including the Matto Grosso Antbird were seen by those who wanted  to. We returned towards midday for another delicious lunch with patrolling Hyacinth Macaws noisily making their presence known. As the temperatures cooled, most of us took a walk through the sandier exterior forests and scrub with one of the resident guides. Once again we had good views of all three primates and another bunch of Coatis. We were unlucky with not one, but seemingly two Hairy Armadillo. One could be heard scampering about inside some thick forested scrub, the other vanishing very quickly down a hole it was excavating.  A superb little Ferruginous Pygmy Owl sat out on some palm fronds and was a joy to watch. It was an enjoyable afternoon and a real pleasure to be out and amongst the wealth of the area’s wildlife. Ending up at one of the ranches, we were met by our truck for the quick trip back to the lodge. This, the final evening spotlighting session of the tour also proved to be very successful. We tried a little of the ranches impressive network of safari tracks before once again venturing south along the Transpantanal.  Some Red Brocket and Marsh Deer feeding out in the wet paddocks, numerous potoo’s with their fiery eyes beaming out of the darkness and a Crab-eating Fox.

From the main road, very close to last night’s encounter, we found another Tapir. To my eyes, it looked bigger and I felt sure wasn’t the previous night’s individual being bolder looking, with stronger  white tips to the ears.  This would have been a fine finale to the evening were it not for the rather unexpected encounter with a  couple of Collared Peccaries on the way  back to the lodge, this group were lucky indeed!

 

In September things were a little different. The targets were the same, minus the otters of course, which had moved on anyway. The marmosets were difficult and really refused to give themselves up easily. For quite a while in the morning we could hear them only, frustrating us from the depths of the densest vegetation. There was a really nice group of howler monkeys close to the boardwalk which absorbed attention whilst we tried to locate the smaller primates. Eventually the marmosets decided to move out into the more open forest and everyone had great views from the boardwalk.  And it had to be from the boardwalk, the forest was so dry and noisy, it was almost impossible to stalk things. Some Coatis but in a brief blundering appearance but would be difficult until much later in the day. Azara’s Agouti was relatively easy and good views were obtained  by  all. They are surprisingly vocal when there are youngsters around. The views from the tower  were spectacular as usual, though with a lot less water  there was visibly less movement. The Black-striped Capuchins provided a few problems but I eventually found a group way out through the forest from the back of the tower. We managed to get most people out there and some great views of both these and more howler monkeys were obtained. Ironically, with the heat rising rapidly, a evasive retreat back to the boardwalk was also designed to allow the monkeys to feed in peace. Imagine our surprise to discover they had  beaten  us to it and were  actually on the boardwalk  before we were!  To rub it in, the marmosets joined them briefly, some even  running up the handrails! There were also some good birds seen in the forest in the morning including Blue-crowned  Motmot,  Undulated Tinamou  and a number of antbirds. It was getting very warm by the time we  retired  for an early lunch and some well earned  cool showers. After lunch, everyone  was  free to do what  they wanted  until  a proposed drive  with  most taking the opportunity to photograph and film an array of wildlife within the compound. The Coatis were beginning to explore the open areas, the Hyacinth Macaws were in residence and  there was  an  avian rainbow of  colour at the feeders. In the late afternoon we took our truck along a network of tracks through the ranch opposite the main entrance. This open, very dry habitat has proved particularly productive  over  the years but today it was relatively quiet. There were some good birds, Golden-collared Macaws for example, and wished  for photographic opportunities such as the rather dapper Black-capped Heron. For others it was a catch-up on species such as the lovely White Woodpecker. The area is also good for armadillos and once again we were unlucky as some noisy scuffling close to the truck was actually a Yellow Armadillo which I saw too late to do anything about once it was on the run. We returned deliberately late, armed with spotlights but surprisingly saw very little. On returning back to the lodge we were pleasantly shocked  to discover what  seemed  like hundreds of bats raiding the fruiting fig tree. Apparently this only occurs over a few days each year and we were clearly very fortunate indeed. Although initially very difficult to get to grips with,  most bats coming in and staying only a few moments.  Some were landing on the trunk and in a swift sidestep, disappearing into the hollow presumably for nursery purposes? There were at least three species present including both Bulldog bats, fascinating and immensely enjoyable. After another excellent evening meal  we  to stepped out for our final spotlighting session on the Pantanal. We worked  the Transpantaneira  both  north and south of Araras. The pools to the north were full of Crab-eating Racoons feeling their way  around the silty bottoms in search of food, a really amazing sight. There was also the seemingly ever present Crab-eating Fox to tantalise from the shadows, their eyeshine sometimes appearing very cat like. There was a Puma  around the area of Bararas,  having been seen only a few days before but this wasn’t  to be for this trip. Observation of the night has to go to a  mother  and  well grown calf  Brazilian Tapir which  we  found to the south and in virtually the same stretch as the August sightings. This was a memorable encounter as it was both prolonged and offered close views.  Regina’s whistled imitation was admirable and the mother was clearly interested enough to investigate, testing the air in front of us with her bizarre proboscis. We also had a great view of a striking black and white snake, a rarely recorded colubrid  as it searched the sandy roadside edge. It was a fitting end to a memorable tour.

 

12^th August/30^th September

 

For both groups the morning was to be a free one, allowing time for those ‘wanted’  photos, better  views  or just  more field time. Most people took a walk along either or often both boardwalks recording a number of both bird and mammal species. On both trips the Coatis performed though in September, they concentrated around the ‘racoon’ pools which for some was rather special. On both tours, after the frustrations of trying to locate the marmosets the previous day invariably resulted in them performing ridiculously well on the boardwalk handrails today. We had a good scout around the palms and termite nests, favoured  areas for the lovely  Southern Tamandua  but sadly this year  it was not to be. After our final lunch in the wonderful surroundings of this fabulous location, we once again boarded our air-conditioned coach for the final journey onto Cuiaba and the long journey home.