Baja California & The Sea of Cortez 2010

 

 

 

Trip Report by leaders David Wimpfheimer and Scot Anderson

 

 

Day 1 (Saturday 27th March)

Pacific Coast - San Diego

David and Scot led a group of birders who were happy to be in the warm and sunny habitats of San Diego. In the river channel many waders were seen including Marbled Godwit, Willet and Western Sandpiper. A good assortment of ducks was seen there and at Santee Lakes. The Ring-necked Ducks and Bufflehead were nice, but the cooperative Wood Ducks only a few meters from us were the prizewinners.

 

A California Thrasher, often an elusive species, posed and sang from the top of a scrub oak while a young Anna’s Hummingbird perched on a branch only a few feet from us. We saw Acorn and Nuttall’s Woodpeckers feeding in the oak forest. Almost one hundred species were observed

We boarded the Spirit of Adventure in the evening. After unpacking our gear we enjoyed the dinner buffet and met fellow travelers. David and Scot gave us an orientation and outlined aspects of the journey. Later Captain Brian explained the safety features of the boat and gave us a briefing. Shortly after leaving the dock we motored by the bait tanks were dozens of California Sea Lions barked at each other and back at us. Many Great Blue and Black-crowned Night Herons intently tried to feed from the tanks. About five hundred Brandt’s Cormorants stood on the tanks as well. We went to sleep full of anticipation for the forthcoming adventure.

 

Day 2 (Sunday 28th March)

Pacific Coast - Todos Santos Island          

Smooth sailing down to Ensenada allowed most folks to have a restful night’s sleep. After clearing customs we left the large harbor and headed out towards Todos Santos Island. On the way we found a group of 300 Long-beaked Common Dolphins. They were feeding on small anchovies, which the dolphins would chase to the surface, where the Brown Pelicans, Western and Heermann’s Gulls snatched them up.

 

We stopped by the southeast corner of Todos Santos Island to have a look. These volcanic islands were unusually green and covered with bright yellow Coreopsis flowers, a result of recent winter rains. We managed to see a Pelagic Cormorant showing its distinctive white patches on the flanks and a pair of Black Oystercatchers. Usually, we see thousands of Western Gulls on territories busy in their nesting activities, however the island was very quiet, most likely due to a lack of food in this El Nino year.

 

Heading south with the swells, we saw a variety of sea birds including Northern Fulmar and Sooty, Black-vented and Pink-footed Shearwaters. All were seen gliding over the sea. For some of the more keen birders sightings of Xantus’s Murrelet was especially noteworthy.

 

At about 11:00, we spotted a group of three Gray Whales. We followed them up swell (north) for awhile watching them spout and surface as they traveled to their feeding grounds in the Bering Sea. We could see the whole whale through the clean water, as they would come to the surface. Usually Gray Whales are found in murky coastal water and are rarely seen beneath the surface. A fourth Gray Whale came and joined the three and then moved off again.

 

After lunch, we came across a very large group (800 or so) of Long- beaked Common Dolphins. These animals come together in tight groups during the day to socialize and protect their young from predators. For us, it’s a wonderful experience to see these dolphins leap and bow ride in the calm warm Baja weather.

 

The weather was exceptional fine with not a cloud in the skies. We also enjoyed quite calm seas in a stretch of ocean that can be rough. David attracted a variety of gulls to the back of the boat by throwing out some bread. He was able to entice a few shearwaters to fly close, but not the elusive albatross.

 

Just before the orange ball of a sun dropped to the horizon Scot gathered folks on the deck to look for the much-heralded green flash, which some suggest is just a myth. We all saw it sink below the horizon, but alas there was no flash tonight, at least that anyone could claim. We all could celebrate a great start to the trip, however.

 

Day 3 (Monday 29 March)

Pacific Coast – San Benitos Island

Daybreak found us just a bit north of the San Benitos Islands after enjoying another night of smooth seas. The rising sun broke over the jagged crest of Cedros Island to the east. After a filling and delicious breakfast of eggs benedict we landed on the island. It felt good to stretch our legs as we walked to the south side of the island.

 

David gave us an orientation covering the geology and other aspects of these islands. They have been isolated form the Baja peninsula long enough for several endemic species to evolve. We saw five of the six endemic plants; San Benitos Mallow, Tarweed, Island Poppy, Popcorn flower and Mammalaria cactus.

 

The island is riddled with seabird burrows; Cassin’s Auklets and Xantus’s Murrelet are the main occupants. The primary reason the nesting sea birds come and go by dark is to avoid predation by large and aggressive Western Gulls.

 

Our group walked to the south side and observed many Northern Elephant Seals on a beach. Most of the seals were here to molt, but there were still quite a few recently weaned animals that are affectionately called weaners. All the adults had gone to sea after the breeding season ended. David took seven intrepid hikers on the path up to the lighthouse, while Scot took the rest though the little fishing community to the north side to look at more seals and birds. The bird highlights included a Merlin chasing a Peregrine Falcon, a large group of Black Turnstones and several active Osprey nests at close range.

 

After a brief rest on the Spirit we enjoyed skiff rides along the jagged, rocky edge of the island. Here we were able to see at least forty Guadalupe Fur Seals. David and Scot explained that these endangered pinnipeds, which had been hunted for their extremely fine fur, have only been seen at these islands in the last few years.

 

As the last skiff approached the boat several folks picked out a blow to the south of us. Scot and David identified it as a Blue Whale, certainly a species that many onboard were hoping to see. As soon as the last skiff was stowed and the anchor lifted we started motoring in that direction. The two whales were in very shallow water, 100 to 250 feet deep, unusual for Blue Whales. Captain Brian masterfully kept the Spirit close to the whales. He seemed to know just where they were going to come up. We saw these dramatically large animals surface many times affording us an appreciation for their steel gray color and small dorsal fin. They were heading northwest into a swell and since our course was to the south we left them. For many it was their first Blue Whales and for everyone onboard it was a treat indeed.

 

Calm seas gave us a smooth ride as we headed south. The birders on top saw over 400 Cassin’s Auklets, a tiny relative of the puffin that feeds on krill like the Blue Whale. The Black-footed Albatross that were sitting on the water were a lot easier to see and probably more interesting to most onboard. With little wind or seas these large wanderers had trouble taking flight and we had exceptional views.

 

As another wonderful dinner ended a luminous full moon rose over the calm sea and Natividad island. A special day was over and we had expectations of more tomorrow.

Day 4 (Tuesday 30 March)

Pacific Coast – San Ignacio Lagoon          

Most of us got up early before sunrise. The full moon was setting in the west as the sun rose in the east. As we got closer to the entrance of San Ignacio lagoon we started to see more and more birds including shearwaters, pelicans, cormorants and gulls. Soon we saw the distinctive bushy shaped blows of Gray Whales and then the animals themselves. The waves were breaking on either side of our boat as Captain Brian expertly guided the Spirit through the narrow, unmarked channel. All of the whales we were seeing were cow-calf pairs. Those who gathered on the bow were treated to views of Bottlenose Dolphins bow riding.

 

After anchoring in the lower lagoon, our panga drivers, Luis, Jonas and Romalo arrived in their skiffs. We donned our rain jackets and pants to protect ourselves from spray as we set off on a new adventure. It wasn’t long before we saw several Gray Whale calves coming close to our boats. To be so close to these playful cetaceans was an incredible thrill.

 

 

 

Occasionally their mothers would come close to our boats, but the pattern was that the three to four month old calves were bolder and amazingly came close enough that we could touch them! It is impossible to know what these whales were feeling, but we all wondered if they were enjoying us as much as the other way around. On the western end of Sand Island there was a large group of birds near the waters edge. Brown Pelicans, Royal Terns, Brandt’s Cormorants, Heermann’s Gulls and Sanderlings all roosted together resting and waiting for the next feeding opportunity.

 

At lunch we all shared stories of these gentle giants. We looked into their eyes and being so close to a species that was once hunted in this same lagoon was a truly incredible experience. A complete turn around from calling these whales “Devilfish” to “friendlys”. The photographers with digital cameras excitedly looked at their screens, reliving these amazing images and experiences.

 

In the afternoon we went out for more whale watching in the pangas. It was a little bouncy, as the wind had come up. We went all the way out the entrance of the lagoon several miles, however so many whales surfaced and blew in the surf near us we didn’t mind so much. The number of whales was low for this time of year, we estimated between 20 to 25 whales total. The reason for the low numbers was not clear, however this is an El Nino year, causing the ocean temperature to be warmer than usual. The Gray Whale is a coldwater species, spending half their lives in the arctic. Perhaps the above normal water temperature may have inspired most of the whales to move north earlier than usual.

 

 

Day 5 (Wednesday 31^st March)

San Ignacio Lagoon – Pacific Ocean

Shortly after sunrise our panga drivers came onboard and had the same filling potato, eggs and bacon breakfast that we enjoyed. We then headed over to the mangroves, a sub-tropical forest habitat that is an important breeding area for fish, shellfish and most importantly several birds that we probably would not see anywhere else.

 

We were bundled against the chill wind that the naturalists said was a typical early morning phenomena, however as we slowly motored up the tidal channel we were protected from the breeze. One of the first birds we saw was a stunning male Red-breasted Merganser. More typical of the salt marsh habitat, and near the northern limit of their Pacific range, were a Tricolored and Yellow-crowned Night Heron.

 

Soon we were hearing the melodic, whistled song of the Mangrove Warbler. The males were fairly easy to see as they sang from exposed branches. One group also saw a Clapper Rail run along the shore. David remarked that it was the best view he had of one in over twenty visits to these mangroves. Aside from the White Ibis, Reddish Egret and other many wonderful birds that were seen, we all enjoyed the tranquility of the place as well. Near the high tide peak, dozens of waders roosted at the edge of the salt marsh as we rode by. Many photographs were taken of Long-billed Curlew, Marbled Godwit, Short-billed Dowitcher and Willet.

 

After a short break on the Spirit, we climbed back in the pangas to pursue Gray Whales. Although there are fewer whales in the lagoon than in most years, the ones here were very friendly. Often it is just the calf that comes close to us as if it has a “child-like” curiosity about the world. However, near the mouth, or “boca,” of the lagoon we were thrilled to see a calf rolling over its mother’s back and the large whale came very close to our boats.

 

After lunch some of the group enjoyed a beach walk along the side of the lagoon. A dead Gray Whale that was determined to be a female was the biggest discovery made, but there was a lot more. We also saw Snowy Plovers, egrets, shark bones and some beautiful shells. The other group encountered more cow-calf pairs along with Great Northern Divers, Surf Scoters, American Oystercatchers and many other birds. One calf seemed to delight in surfing a wave, carrying the name California Gray Whale to an extreme. Many of us returned wet from the spray and swells we cruised through, but happy at the incredible experience we had just had.

 

We gathered on the aft deck to say good-bye to our drivers and thank them for their care and expertise in sharing such an incredible place with us. As we motored through the narrow channel and back to the open ocean we saw the last Gray Whales. A flight of pelicans, backlit by the late afternoon sun flew alongside us and an Arctic Skua moved across the bow. When we reached safer and deeper waters, we turned to the south full of anticipation for new adventures that awaited us.

 

 

Day 6 (Thursday 1^st April)

Pacific Coast – Magdalena Bay

At daybreak the Spirit was traveling southward off Punta Lazaro. We had overcast skies with a twelve-knot breeze out of the northwest and a ten-foot north Pacific swell. Just after breakfast, three Humpback Whales were spotted, a cow-calf pair with an escort.

 

While it is not well known what role the escort plays, it is believed that this male will help protect the young and vulnerable calf from predators. 

 

At 8:00 am, Captain Brian found two more Humpbacks, which were tail-lobbing, flipper-flapping and breaching! They put on a great show, breaching at least a dozen times. It was a real challenge to try and stand up as the boat rolled (every one had sea legs by now), and predict where the whales would surface next. We stayed with them for an hour or so, while they amazed us with their acrobatics and social behaviors. Most of us were quite excited to see a pair of Sabine’s Gulls, hovering and dipping in the water where the whale had just breached. Perhaps they were eating sluffing skin from the whales or lice knocked free by the impact of falling back to the water.

 

Continuing down swell we found a small group of about 50 Long-beaked Common Dolphins. Everyone enjoyed wonderful views of these swift animals as they joined us for a while speeding down swell. Just after lunch, we found a Green Sea Turtle. Clearly seen by all, this one was easy to identify.

 

By late afternoon we were in moderately deep water about twenty miles off the islands that form Magdalena Bay. Although we didn’t find any whales here, our keen-eyed observers spotted 12 Royal Terns, 8 Black Storm Petrels, 3 Black-vented Shearwaters and 5 Sabine’s Gulls. At 4:30 pm a group of 180-200 Long-beaked Common Dolphins was seen surfing and swimming through the waves. The wind had picked up and the sea was rough, but the dolphins seemed to love it. They surfed down the waves towards the Spirit and then leaped back into the swell and punched out the backside with a big splash. At the same time we tried to take photographs of the dolphins, capturing mostly water and a few leaps.

 

We ended the day with a cow-calf pair of Humpbacks. After dinner, we headed to bed after a full day on the ocean, dreaming of breaching Humpbacks and leaping dolphins.

 

Day 7 (Friday 2nd April)

Sea of Cortez – Los Frailles

For the first morning of the trip we saw the sun rising over the Sea of Cortez. An offshore wind bathed us in the smells of the desert, but the piquant aromas of Dan’s huevos rancheros mingled in as well. Many of us sampled this traditional breakfast. Another tradition is to start the day near the tip of the Baja peninsula at the Gorda bank.

 

Humpback Whales spend the winter and early spring at the Gorda bank feeding and courting. It wasn’t long before we saw a cow-calf pair. The young whale was bigger than the calves we saw yesterday and Scot suggested that it was probably a yearling as calves usually stay with their mother for that length of times. Brian monitored the whales making moderately deep dives and thought that the hydrophone might be able to pick up some of their sounds. Scot and David lowered a microphone connected to a tape recorder and soon we were listening to the eerie sounds of a Humpback Whale. Some thought it sounded like a jazz clarinet, but the uniquely wonderful mixture of sounds really defied description. Undoubtedly we all were left a deeper appreciation for these amazing cetaceans.

 

In addition to the cow and calf, we saw a pair that had been joined by a male. These male escorts may travel with the pair for the whole length of their northward migration. One group of males was acting quite rowdy now, after the mating season. They swam quickly at the surface, one snorting as he exhaled. Many raised their flukes repeatedly from the sea and a lot of photographs were taken. We spent most of the next two hours looking at different groups of whales. Some were breaching, some were flipper flapping and many showed their flukes with beautiful cascades of water spilling off their tails

 

In addition to the whales we were thrilled to see a Scalloped Hammerhead Shark that Brian positioned the boat well for us to see. This shark was about three feet long and we had a good view of the strangely shaped head. Many large sharks have been killed in the gulf for decades and we see fewer big ones now.

 

A strong wind was blowing from the northeast throwing a lot of spray on the bow as we crashed through the waves. We enjoyed seeing a few more whales and holding on before we picked up speed to get to our destination.

By early afternoon we arrived at Los Frailles, a granitic headland jutting out into the gulf. Scot took a group snorkeling while David led another group into the lush desert for a bird walk.

 

The snorkelers saw Parrotfish, King Angel, Rainbow Wrasse and many of the other fish that the Sea of Cortez is famous for.

 

After snorkeling, Scot took his group on a birding walk. The two teams met up on a dusty road, like a scene out of a Western movie. Both groups were pleased to have excellent views of one of the endemic species found only on the Baja peninsula, Gray Thrasher. Some of the other species observed included Cactus Wren, Hooded Oriole, Gila Woodpecker and Pyrrhuloxia. Scot’s group was lucky to see a charismatic bird, the Roadrunner. We all were back on the Spirit as the sun set behind the jagged mountains of the Cape region. Dan outdid himself with a great dinner of fresh sea bass and we celebrated Kaspar’s birthday along with all of our wonderful sightings.

 

 

Day 9 (Saturday 3rd April)

San Jose Channel - Sea of Cortez

We ran all night into a rough north wind; the Spirit bounced and bumped making sleep hard for everyone. As we climbed up the stairs to a bright new day, we found ourselves headed for the lee of San Jose Island. We made it! Quickly, we spotted a group of 300 Black-necked (Eared) Grebe all together in one big group. Next we stopped at a rocky point on the island’s southeast corner to look at some roosting birds. We had great views of the blue feet of the Blue-footed Boobies! We also saw Brown Pelicans, Yellow-footed and Heermann’s Gulls as well as Brown Boobies. Next we headed up the San Jose Channel where we spotted a Bryde’s Whale. The rostral ridges, which identify the species, were seen well. And we could smell its bad breath that indicated recent feeding. We also saw a Striped Marlin “tailing” on the surface.

 

Next we headed to Nopolo, a small fishing community at the mouth of a stunning, volcanic rock canyon. Many of the birds we saw here were similar to the species seen yesterday. However, our guides were very happy to provide really good views of Xantus’s Hummingbird. This endemic species is different from the Costa’s Hummingbird we had seen previously. Many orioles, cardinals and Phainopepla were seen as well. We also heard the iconic song of the Canyon Wren, but views of these skilled songsters alluded us.

 

We returned to the Spirit to eat fish tacos and look for more whales. Thanks to Wendy we found a Blue Whale right away. Next to the boat we could see the whole animal through the clear water in the high midday sun – beautiful!

 

 

There were more whales and we then realized we were surrounded by up to seven different Blue Whales. The whales were diving deep, feeding on krill, which made it hard for Captain Brian to follow.

 

Heading north, we were frustrated to find a whale that was hard to identify. Brian decided to continue in the same direction and suddenly we came across a large group of storm petrels that we were able to pick out. A few Least Storm Petrels here were a good comparison to the more numerous Black Storm Petrels. There were not only smaller in size, they had a much quicker wing beat and more direct flight.

 

In the far distance Brian spotted a group of Short-finned Pilot Whales near San Diego Island. We estimated there were around 30-40 in the group and they were showing some interesting behaviors. At first they seemed like they were feeding and there were some gulls hovering over as they surfaced. One breached three times right next to the boat and at times you could see the whole group under the water. The whole group would come up together and you could hear them blowing.

 

We headed north and Brian spotted a group of Sperm Whales. We drove past another smaller group of Pilot Whales and we had to race against time as the sun was setting. One Sperm Whale surfaced two miles away, but we decided to continue north knowing we wouldn’t get close enough before that whale dove. Brian’s plan paid off. We soon relocated the first whale, which was now much closer. We watched it for a few minutes before it fluked. Another Sperm Whale surfaced nearby and we raced towards it and just got to see it fluke in the sunset. The ultimate climax to a perfect day! We went to Catalina Island to anchor for the night.

 

 

Day 10 (Sunday 4th April)

Santa Catalina - San Jose Channel

We not only enjoyed a calm night on the anchor at Santa Catalina Island, but the brilliant desert sky showed us the Plough, Orion, Gemini and many other constellations.

 

After breakfast we headed ashore to explore one of the most dramatic desert landscapes in the gulf. The endemic Giant Barrel Cactus is found only on this island and one other in the Sea of Cortez. While the tall multi-branching Cardon is found in other locations, in the early morning light of our visit they seemed especially stunning. Here Jojoba, Palo Verde and other plants typical of the Sonoran desert were seen alongside Baja endemics such as Palo Adan and Creeping Devil Cactus.

 

Several birds have adapted to the absence of water in this arid, but beautiful landscape. A family of Loggerhead Shrike was seen foraging and many photographs were taken of them. Most of the group enjoyed good views of Ladder-backed Woodpecker and Ash–throated Flycatcher as they perched on the spiny plants. The Black-throated Sparrow is a particularly striking bird in this habitat.

 

We were interested in all the wildlife on the island. Scot demonstrated his unfailing talent for finding the Santa Catalina Island Rattleless Rattlesnake. Although the group was told that this species is docile we kept a safe distance as we photographed this endemic species. David alerted us to look for lizards as we walked back down the arroyo after the heated rocks and sand energized them. Most of us picked out the turquoise Santa Catalina Side-blotched Lizard, yet another endemic. Some of us also had views of a Baja California Spiny Lizard and the wonderfully large and fast Desert Iguana.

 

After our desert walk a small group tried to enjoy snorkeling, but the stinging jellyfish curtailed that activity. Scot had a different interest in these invertebrates and after capturing several in a net he was able to show some of the group the dazzling, pulsating colors of a Ctenophore in a darkened room. Skiff rides along the rocky shoreline displayed the wonderfully transparent waters of the gulf and for some lucky birders a Wandering Tattler.

 

As we enjoyed a delicious seafood fettuccini lunch we headed west towards the volcanic island of Montserrat. It was almost comical watching most everyone abruptly leaving their plates and rushing out the doors after Brian announced that a tropicbird was sitting on the water ahead of the boat. We crept closer and had wonderful views of this Red-billed Tropicbird displaying its tail streamers as it took off.

 

As the Spirit headed west we picked out the blow of a whale ahead. Brian again was able to maneuver the boat to give us excellent views of a “finner” type whale. We were able to eliminate Minke, Sei and Fin whales by various field marks. David and Scot told us to look for the longitudinal ridges forward of the blowhole which would positively identify it as a Bryde’s Whale. Not only did we see the ridges, but also the whale’s tail too as it swam extremely close to the bow. We almost experienced the full sensory palette as the cetacean’s foul bad breath drifted back to us.

 

There was hardly time for writing up notes or looking at photos before another announcement came over the speakers, “Blue Whale and this one is fluking.” Seeing a whale’s flukes as they dive for a deeper dive is the quintessential experience for all whale watchers. And seeing the fluke of the largest animal that has ever lived was a dream many of us had.

 

For most of the next hour we enjoyed excellent views of this Blue Whale, which had a calf as well. We watched as they rolled up to the surface, blew and then after several surfacings the mother raised her massive fluke out of the sea. The water dripped off her 25-foot wide fluke like a waterfall and was photographed by most of us. In the calm water it was remarkable to compare the size of the calf to its mother. After several breathing sequences the mother stopped fluking and we moved on.

 

As the group took a tea break and peered at our digital photos, the crew and naturalists were looking for other baleen whales that had been reported in the area. Soon Kevin in the crow’s nest spotted a large blow backlit by the low sun in the west. It took the Spirit awhile to get close enough before the call came over the speakers, “two Fin Whales are ahead of us.

 

Perhaps this species lacks some of the allure of the Blue Whale. At 60-70 feet in length they are “only” the second largest whale. However, Brian maneuvered the boat exceptionally well affording us wonderful of these two cetaceans as they rose to the surface. We observed their distinctive white lower right jaw and gray chevron repeatedly. Although this species never shows its fluke when sounding for a deeper dive, the overall size and sleekness of these whales was a treat to see.

 

We all agreed that observing three different species of baleen whale in a three-hour span was very good whale watching indeed. Almost to balance it out there was now a group of Common Dolphin that visited the boat. The seas were calm and now reflected the sunset glow as we cruised to the north end of San Jose Island and our anchorage for the evening.

 

 

Day 10 (Monday 5th April)

San Jose Island - San Jose Channel

Up before the sun we weighed anchor at 5:00 am and headed to Punta Colorado (which means “red point”). We took the skiffs ashore shortly after breakfast and David led up us the beautiful arroyo surrounded by pink and white-layered sandstone embedded with fossilized shells.

 

 

We had great views of male Costa’s Hummingbird, Red-tailed Hawk and Gray Flycatcher along with many Whiptail lizards.

 

Next we went snorkeling or for skiff rides beneath the sandstone cliffs in beautiful clear water. The water sparkled in the early morning light and many fish were seen such as the large Dogtooth Snapper, Colorado Snapper, Blue Gold Grunt and juvenile Damselfishes. The skiff rides took us to a cave to the south where we saw White-throated Swifts and Yellow-footed Gulls.

 

Once back on the Spirit we quickly spotted a group of 200 Bottlenose Dolphins that put on a spectacular show of acrobatics, leaping and jumping out of our wake. At the same time a Striped Marlin was seen jumping along with the dolphins.

 

After lunch we found a herd of 500 Common Dolphins in a tight formation that entertained us with their bow-riding and energetic swimming. There were many young calves amongst the group.

 

As we motored north towards Santa Cruz Island we spotted two Dwarf Sperm Whales, or Kogia, resting at the surface. They looked like upside down surfboards floating on the sea. These small cetaceans are easy to identify at a distance, but hard to see well. They are mysterious and boat-shy so usually dive before we can get very close.

 

Continuing north we ran across a group of 30-40 Short-finned Pilot Whales with great views. These gentle whales surfaced together all around the bow and the stern of the boat.

 

We found ourselves in a similar position to the other evening as we came across a large bull Sperm Whale four miles to the west in the low light. We watched the whale spout for eleven minutes with the forward angle of the blow clearly identifying this species of the whale before it finally put up its fluke and dove. While waiting for the whale to resurface we listened to the hydrophone and the distinctive clicks that Sperm Whales make. After 56 minutes the whale came up and we raced to get there. The whale was up 9 minutes and blew 36 times. Skillfully Brian drifted up close to the whale just as it dove again. After a further 36 minutes the whale came up again for 6 minutes and then gave good views as it dove once more.

 

The whale watching was over, except for some that managed to see it one last time in almost complete darkness. The colors of a beautiful sunset, the kind Baja is famous for, reflected off a glassy sea.

 

That would have been enough but after dinner we enjoyed a great show of bioluminescence off the bow complete with zigzagging fish that left sparkles in the water.

 

Day 11 (Tuesday 6th April)

San Jose Island – The Cape

We enjoyed another calm night at anchor under the volcanic cliffs north of Nopolo. During the night our bait lights attracted krill, mackerel, needlefish and a small Maco shark that was seen by a few.

 

We left just at daybreak and it wasn’t long before a group of Long-beaked Common Dolphins was sighted and provided us with wonderful views. We tried to eat breakfast, but then a whale blow was picked out. Many of us gathered on the bow and soon saw a Bryde’s Whale surface. The animal was seen several times; its blow backlit by the pre dawn light which left a yellow-golden color on the water’s surface.

 

While waiting for the whale to come up from a deeper dive, Captain Brian saw a distinctive blow further offshore. It was from a Sperm Whale. And so the wait was on again, only this time there was plenty of daylight. The whale stayed down about 35 minutes and then resurfaced. The Spirit drove towards the cetacean’s blow and we were able to get a view of the rocking whale before it raised its massive tail and fluke to sink down.

 

We saw the Sperm Whale again, but the real stars of the morning were a group of Pilot Whales that we observed for over an hour. The animals were easily recognized as we had seen them on two other occasions, but the quality and variety of our experience today was truly exceptional. There were many behaviors including breaching, lobtailling and spy hopping. The whales swam amazingly close to the boat, just below us. Clearly they wanted us to see them and maybe enjoyed us as much as the other way around. A juvenile and a neonate, just a few days old, were remarkable to see.

 

There were more adventures to come so we left the Pilot Whales and a distant Humpback. A few Bottlenose Dolphins swam by, but did not play much on our wake. The avian world was not ignored as three Red-billed Tropicbirds were seen sitting on the surface in just a small stretch. With most of the group gathered on the bow we were able to get close enough to one of these unique seabirds to see its amazingly long central tail feathers and the intricate barring on its back.

 

 

 

A delicious Asian chicken salad was served early so we would be ready for skiff rides and snorkeling at our next destination, Los Islotes. Some have suggested that these rocks at the north end of Espiritu Santu Island, are so picturesque that they almost look like a Hollywood set. The volcanic crags make it the perfect roosting site for Brown and Blue-footed Boobies. However, this year there were far fewer birds present than in most years. David informed us this was due to low productivity in this warm water, El Nino, year.

 

Several pelicans seemed to be posing for us as we motored around the rocks. Even more photogenic were the snorting and cavorting California Sea Lions that we approached closely. Some barked back at us, displaying prominent canine teeth. Others lay on the nearby rocks, barely moving a muscle. Sally Lighfoot Crabs and a few waders including Black Turnstone and Wandering Tattler scampered over the barnacle encrusted rocks.

 

Many of us soon had exceptionally close views of the sea lions after donning swim and snorkeling gear. Los Islotes is famous for its friendly pinnipeds and it wasn’t long before one of the sea lions swam to most of us in the water. It blew bubbles and acted just like a playful puppy coming to us and then swimming quickly away. One sea lion hung upside down just below the surface, scratching its chin with a hind flipper in an utterly relaxed posture.

 

The young seals swam toward us and then with a few ballet-like strokes jetted off to deeper water. One or two large males swam by our group leaving us with a very different feeling. Besides the sea lions the huge schools of Sergeant Majors and Pacific Creole fish were quite wonderful.

 

After our visit to Los Islotes we headed south along the western side of this dramatic island. The many hued browns, tans and reds were a clue to its turbulent volcanic history. The absence of Magnificent Frigatebirds from a nesting colony may have been related to the same low productivity ocean phenomena that the boobies were responding to.

 

Near the southern tip of the island we found a small group of Smooth-tailed Mobula. These rays were smaller than the ones we had been seeing in other parts of the gulf. The way they jumped out of the water and then dropped straight down was quite comical. It would have been good to stay longer and find more, but a strong easterly wind was now causing the boat to rock moderately. We made ourselves as comfortable as possible before getting into the lee of Ceralvo Island and calmer seas. If anything this was a reminder than we were fortunate to have very good weather for most of the trip.

 

As the boat motored southward, we enjoyed one last sunset behind Baja’s Cape region.

 

A prime rib dinner was the last of many wonderful meals we enjoyed on the Spirit of Adventure. We toasted the day’s great adventures and the remarkable journey that would soon come to an end.

 

 

 

 

Day 12 (Wednesday 7th April)

Cabo San Lucas - Home

The seas were a bit choppy as we had one last morning on the boat. Mixed emotions filled us, as our wonderful experience with so much wildlife was about to end. The wonderfully diverse Baja peninsula comes to a dramatic point at a series of granitic spires that we slipped by. Many small fishing boats passed by us as we entered the harbor. Perhaps they reminded us that we had experienced this special area in a unique way that few others do. Soon we were on our way to the airport and flights home. However, the memories of so many whales, birds and other animals will linger on for a long time.

 

Species List 2010

 

(NB Excludes birding excursion around San Diego 27^th March)

 

Marine Mammals

 

Gray Whale

Bryde’s Whale

Blue Whale

Fin Whale

Humpback

Sperm Whale

Dwarf Sperm Whale

Short-finned Pilot Whale

Long-beaked Common Dolphin

Bottlenose Dolphin inshore and offshore forms

Harbour Seal

California Sealion

Northern Elephant Seal

Guadalupe Fur Seal

 

Other mammals

 

White-tailed Antelope Squirrel

 

Birds

 

Pacific Diver

Great Northern Diver

Black-necked Grebe

Western Grebe

Clark’s Grebe

Black-footed Albatross

Fulmar

Pink-footed Shearwater

Sooty Shearwater

Townsend’s Shearwater

Black-vented Shearwater

Black Storm-petrel

Least Storm-petrel

Red-billed Tropicbird

Blue-footed Booby

Brown Booby

Brown Pelican

Brandt’s Cormorant

Double-crested Cormorant

Pelagic Cormorant

Magnificent Frigatebird

Great Blue Heron

Great White Egret

Snowy Egret

Little Blue Heron

Tricoloured Heron

Reddish Egret

Green Heron

Night Heron

Yellow-crowned Night Heron

White Ibis

Turkey Vulture

Black Brant

Surf Scoter

Red-breasted Merganser

Osprey

Northern (Hen) Harrier

Red-tailed Hawk

Crested Caracara

American Kestrel

Merlin

Peregrine

Prairie Falcon

California Quail

Clapper Rail

Grey Plover

Snowy Plover

American Oystercatcher

American Black Oystercatcher

Greater Yellowlegs

Willet

Wandering Tattler

Spotted Sandpiper

Whimbrel

Long-billed Curlew

Marbled Godwit

Turnstone

Black Turnstone

Surfbird

Sanderling

Short-billed Dowitcher

Red-necked Phalarope

Grey Phalarope

Pomarine Skua

Arctic Skua

Bonaparte’s Gull

Heermann’s Gull

Franklin’s Gull

California Gull

Yellow-footed Gull

Western Gull

Sabine’s Gull

Caspian Tern

Royal Tern

Elegant Tern

Forster’s Tern

Xantu’s Murrelet

Craveri’s Murrelet

Cassin’s Auklet

Rhinocerous Auklet

Rock Pigeon

White-winged Dove

Morning Dove

Common Ground Dove

Greater Roadrunner

White-throated Swift

Xantu’s Hummingbird

Costa’s Hummingbird

Belted Kingfisher

Gila Woodpecker

Ladder-backed Woodpecker

Gray Flycatcher

Ash-throated Flycatcher

Loggerhead Shrike

Western Scrub Jay

Raven

Horned (Shore) Lark

Violet-green Swallow

Swallow

Verdin

Cactus Wren

Canyon Wren

Blue-gray Gnatcatcher

California Gnatcatcher

Northern Mockingbird

Gray Thrasher

Phainopepla

Orange-crowned Warbler

Mangrove (Yellow) Warbler

Yellow-rumped (Audubon’s) Warbler

Clay-coloured Sparrow

Lark Sparrow

Black-throated Sparrow

Savannah Sparrow

White-crowned Sparrow

Northern Cardinal

Pyrrhuloxia

Black-headed Grosbeak

Brown-headed Cowbird

Hooded Oriole

Scott’s Oriole

House Finch

Lesser Goldfinch

House Sparrow

 

Selected other wildlife

 

Pacific Green Turtle

Desert Iguana

Zebra-tailed Lizard

Baja Spiny Lizard

Santa Cantalina Side-botched Lizard

Western Whiptail

Catalina Rattlesnake

 

Sally Lightfoot Crab

 

Scalloped Hammerhead Shark

Thresher Shark

Mako Shark sp

Ocean Sunfish

Remora

Striped Marlin

Garibaldi

King Angel

Anchovies

Spotted Eagle Ray

 

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